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You might want to enlist the help or opinion of a glass installer. Most every Supra is plagued with leaks in the hatch area either from the glass supports or the taillights. Anything that penetrates the body has the potential to allow water in over time as the rubber degrades, metal rusts, exacerbating the problem. Heavy rain, or washing the car was allowing water to collect in that plastic trim cover at the bottom of the inside of the hatch. I traced the leak(s) to those plastic supports at the bottom of the hatch glass. I used EZR hairline crack sealer that I'd gotten on eBay to solve that problem. It looks like milk and seeps into cracks then dries gummy sealing the leak. I used a small pointed paintbrush and dobbed it on the inside base of those square plastic plugs coming through the metal. I also left some paper towel in there during this process to monitor the leak and to see where it was coming from. Here is a link to another forum detailing what I did. Rust reformer is also latex based. It seals up rust and could also seal leaks where rust is allowing water to seep. On our forum someone was having a leak originating from the hatch gasket pinch weld rotting out and also they replaced the plastic cup inserts that the bottom trim snaps into. Click here to go there. The hatch gasket lifts off easily. It's not glued on. You can check at the bottom to see if there is any rot in the pinch weld, which is common. I repaired mine with JB weld using plastic wrap to keep it formed as it tends to sag until it starts to solidify.
 

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Stock 1989 Supra Turbo w/ Sport Roof
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You might want to enlist the help or opinion of a glass installer. Most every Supra is plagued with leaks in the hatch area either from the glass supports or the taillights. Anything that penetrates the body has the potential to allow water in over time as the rubber degrades, metal rusts, exacerbating the problem. Heavy rain, or washing the car was allowing water to collect in that plastic trim cover at the bottom of the inside of the hatch. I traced the leak(s) to those plastic supports at the bottom of the hatch glass. I used EZR hairline crack sealer that I'd gotten on eBay to solve that problem. It looks like milk and seeps into cracks then dries gummy sealing the leak. I used a small pointed paintbrush and dobbed it on the inside base of those square plastic plugs coming through the metal. I also left some paper towel in there during this process to monitor the leak and to see where it was coming from. Here is a link to another forum detailing what I did. Rust reformer is also latex based. It seals up rust and could also seal leaks where rust is allowing water to seep. On our forum someone was having a leak originating from the hatch gasket pinch weld rotting out and also they replaced the plastic cup inserts that the bottom trim snaps into. Click here to go there. The hatch gasket lifts off easily. It's not glued on. You can check at the bottom to see if there is any rot in the pinch weld, which is common. I repaired mine with JB weld using plastic wrap to keep it formed as it tends to sag until it starts to solidify.
As a JB Weld enthusiast I'd like to share a good tip when using it. Let it set for a little bit (time depends on Kwikweld vs JB Weld etc, and applies to all epoxies really) until it gets a little less sticky before using it. Don't let it harden and cure all the way of course. Helps it not flow out of shape. The plastic wrap is a great idea also! Lightly greasing tin foil works also in my experience.

One more thing, steel-stik works very well for this application instead of the liquid epoxies.
 
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As a JB Weld enthusiast I'd like to share a good tip when using it. Let it set for a little bit (time depends on Kwikweld vs JB Weld etc, and applies to all epoxies really) until it gets a little less sticky before using it. Don't let it harden and cure all the way of course. Helps it not flow out of shape. The plastic wrap is a great idea also! Lightly greasing tin foil works also in my experience.

One more thing, steel-stik works very well for this application instead of the liquid epoxies.
I've never used steel-stik before but I'll pick some up and give it a try. Its made by the same people as JB, and in this application would be less tedious as long as it sticks the same when cured.
 

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92 TURBO
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Going to attempt it myself. My current one is fried. I have the dam kit. Any pointers?

View attachment 280762
Brian, check out the thread below:


posts 16 by @2jzturbo92 and post 20 by me. Those 5 holes was how water was getting inside my hatch. I thought it was the back glass seal/dam on my 92.

I ordered the 2 side black cups and the 3 bottom glass spacers. I replaced them, (the 3 glass spacers were not easy to replace with glass installed) and I have no more water getting inside hatch.

@2jzturbo92 was a big help even offering to reseal my glass if I drove to MA. He hasn't posted in a while, he's in MA and installs auto glass. Maybe PM him for pointers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brian, check out the thread below:


posts 16 by @2jzturbo92 and post 20 by me. Those 5 holes was how water was getting inside my hatch. I thought it was the back glass seal/dam on my 92.

I ordered the 2 side black cups and the 3 bottom glass spacers. I replaced them, (the 3 glass spacers were not easy to replace with glass installed) and I have no more water getting inside hatch.

@2jzturbo92 was a big help even offering to reseal my glass if I drove to MA. He hasn't posted in a while, he's in MA and installs auto glass. Maybe PM him for pointers.
Thanks Mike,

I do remember reading that thread. Full of great information. I'll reach out to 2JZTurbo and hopefully get some more answers. In the meantime, I stumbled upon a solution for the lower rear hatch trim. Check it out. I bought them and will let you know how they hold up.

Hatch trim solution
 

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The window seal currently on the Supra is much thicker than the OEM new one I bought. What the hell? I wish some things could just be straight forward :mad:

Thoughts???
The last 2 hatch glasses I installed I didn't use the dam at all. In talking with a local glass guy that's been doing it for the last 30ish years, the urethanes used for window adhesives have advanced significantly and the dam is no longer necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The last 2 hatch glasses I installed I didn't use the dam at all. In talking with a local glass guy that's been doing it for the last 30ish years, the urethanes used for window adhesives have advanced significantly and the dam is no longer necessary.
You're the best @Captain I was considering doing exactly that. The only issue I foresee are the spots where the glass sits on the little glass holders. Window isn't flush against the hatch, so the urethane would need to be pretty thick?
 

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Window isn't flush against the hatch, so the urethane would need to be pretty thick?
Correct. You'll want to measure the thickness of the glass pads and make sure you have a thicker bead of urethane than that all the way around. Once you get the glass in and settled down to height you'll want to give it time to setup, and then you can go back and trim any excess urethane off.

Also make sure the glass pads are towards the inside of the window and put a bead of urethane around them as well. Not sealing those in can, and usually does, result in leaks at that location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Correct. You'll want to measure the thickness of the glass pads and make sure you have a thicker bead of urethane than that all the way around. Once you get the glass in and settled down to height you'll want to give it time to setup, and then you can go back and trim any excess urethane off.

Also make sure the glass pads are towards the inside of the window and put a bead of urethane around them as well. Not sealing those in can, and usually does, result in leaks at that location.
Printing this out and framing it. Thank you for the valuable info. 🍻
 
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