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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didn't see much come up in search to replace the spherical joint and rubber bushings that are in the rear hubs for the lower control arm and traction arm, so here is a guide on how to replace them.

Before I get into it, it's worth noting that I had the hubs removed from the car and torn down as I was painting them and replacing all of the consumable parts. It is possible to replace them without removing the hub from the car using something similar to a wheel bearing removal/install kit - the ones with the long threaded bolts and assorted plates and sleeves to pull the bearing out and the new one in - but smaller; you would have to get creative with what you used for sleeves for both the support and drive side of the operation but could just use an ample sized hardware store bolt and nut just small enough to pass through the bushings to apply the force necessary.

I was able to find the rubber bushing on NENGUN but I'm sure you could get it from the dealer (P/N 48725-14040)
I was able to find the spherical joint on DRIFTMOTION, could likely find this at the dealer as well (P/N 42210-14010)

To start out with, you obviously want to press out the old bushings. I just used various pieces of scrap channel and round stuff (impact sockets, pipe, bar stock, whatever works) to support the hub and press out the old bushings. The spherical joint is a little tricky because there isn't a clear straight shot to the backside as there are other mounting points on the hub in the way. The rubber bushing comes out relatively easy, you could probably get it out with a hammer assuming you have a way to support the back and something round to push the bushing out. The spherical joint was a much tighter fit, would not recommend using a hammer.

Installation is the inverse of removal but here are some pictures and details to help and possibly keep you from damaging the new parts as they aren't very cheap for what they are.

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I used this CMD #3 lube to help the bushings slide in easier and prevent scoring - this is the good stuff, I've had amazing experiences with it installing bearings as well both on cars and CNC equipment.

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The rubber bushing goes in pretty easy; I got it started with just the socket and a hammer and then supported the back side in the press as shown, offsetting the support piece on purpose so the sleeve of the bushing would touch it when it was pressed in all of the way, so I didn't go too far - the sleeve is supposed to be flush with the faces on the hub for both the rubber bushing and spherical joint.

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The spherical joint is not the same on both sides, one side has a rolled edge as seen above from them rolling the sleeve over the joint to seal it in. The other side is machined, as seen below. The machined side is much stronger and can be pressed on, the rolled edge may bend and fold in with too much pressure. The joint itself is dimensionally identical from both sides so it does not matter which way you put it in, just make sure you insert it in such a way that you will be pressing on the machined surface.

The telltale for me was that the rolled side had a radius on the edge and a smooth surface where the machined side had a chamfered edge and lathe marks on the surface.

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Next I removed the spring clip and rubber dust seal to not damage it during installation.

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I also placed a O-ring between the inner and outer sleeves to prevent junk from falling in during installation

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I then started it out with the backside flat against the bottom of my press and the outer sleeve from one of the old joints on top. If you have something better to support the backside than the piece of scrap round tube that I used you could skip this step, my piece of tube was not cut perfectly straight and resulted in great difficulty getting the joint to go in straight right away. If it is not going in straight, I do not recommend "sending it home" with your hammer or press as you will likely bend the outer sleeve and the joint will bind. It is also important to only be pressing on the outer sleeve to install, if you press on the inner sleeve you will damage the plastic bushing that cushions the ball in the socket and the joint will be junk - same with bearings if you didn't already know.

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This time I had offset the piece I was using to drive the bushing in - the old outer sleeve of one of the joints - to act as a stop when the bushing was installed all of the way to keep from going too far.

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Lastly you can remove the O-ring and reinstall the rubber dust boot. The rubber just boot slips on with ease and "snaps" into the grooves on the joint. The spring clip is a little tricky, I had worked each layer of it around the boot while pushing down for it to slip into the groove in the dust boot, I didn't have to use any tools to do this - be careful with this step as the spring clip and whatever tool you may use on it have sharp edges and you cannot buy replacement dust boots if you tear it.

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· Registered
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is this bushing identical to the one on the mkiv? It looks very similar.
I don't believe so, I glanced at a diagram of the rear hub assembly on Lakeland Toyota and it looks like the rear LCA uses a ball joint with a tapered shank instead of the spherical joint and the trailing arm / torque arm uses a rubber bushing that appears very similar but has a 48725-14070 P/N instead of the 48725-14040 P/N for the part on the MK3
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