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8 Second 6spd
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Discussion Starter #1
First some background on the car

Freshly built motor with eagle rods/wisecos... has maybe 100 miles on it. TH400 trans (GM adapter plate/GM flexplate setup). The rear main was new when it was built.

I had a leak at the rear main seal area, so I just replaced the rear main seal even though the other one only had about 100 miles on it, but GD i still have this leak even after putting another new seal in.

It's coming from the rear main area so i would think it has to be the rear main right? anyone else have a similar problem?

Joel
 

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8 Second 6spd
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1,250 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i'll check the valve cover... but i am almost totally sure is lower.
 

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8 Second 6spd
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1,250 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yea, i put in all new flywheel bolts...
 

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i always say toyota !
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i alos have the same problem. rebuilt the engine with all new seals, my old front main seal and rear main seal were not leaking. i replaced them cuz the engine was out. and now my new front main and rear main seal are leaking.
 

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yea, i put in all new flywheel bolts...
Well, like I said it was a stupid question but has tripped me up before.

I normally test a rebuilt or new motor in the car without a transmission for the very purpose of testing for leaks, and I found out the hard way that you can't leave the flywheel bolts holes exposed.

Sorry I can't help more... :-(

-scott
 

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well what it might be for those of you who are havint these leaks is just improper install.... it is VERY easy to damage those oil seals upon istall, even the smalled of indentation on the ring can cause major leaks....... just a though....
agree. it happended to me before :run:
 

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Revisiting this.

With the trans out, I see a couple drops of oil in the bellhousing area. Thinking it was the rear main seal, I pulled the flexplate to find that the spacer, flexplate bolts and outer plate all were coated in oil, but the seal itself appears to be dry.

Is it possible that oil is working its way out the threads on the flexplate bolts? They say in the manual to use locktite on the bolts, but I wonder if FIPG would be better?

Has anyone had a similar issue? I don't feel that putting a new seal on would change anything. My flexplate bolts have shaved heads on them for an aftermarket converter, the PO had installed the converter. Not sure if they started life as a stock or aftermarket bolt.

Thanks,
Al
 

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I don't think oil could make it past locktite if that's what you used. Have you tried running emery cloth over the seal surface of the crank to make sure there are no imperfections? Also, try filling the sealing surface of the seal with grease before installing over the crank. This aids in the seal slipping into place without getting caught on stuff and does a better job of stopping oil from passing by before it gets set in right on the first couple revolutions of start up. I know this is no brainier stuff to a professional, just giving my basics for rear main installs.
 

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I didn't install the flexplate bolts (my engine builder did about 10 years ago), but there wasn't any locktite on them that I could tell, just oil.

The crank snout, flexplate spacer (both sides), flexplate (only in the very center), and the plate that goes over the flexplate were all covered in oil. The seal itself is bone dry. I'm currently not planning on replacing the seal, just putting a heavy dose of locktite or sealant on the bolts.

All in all, it's a small leak, but it looks to me that the oil is riding up the threads on the bolts, based on the parts that are wet, and where they are wet. 60-90 psi is a lot of oil pressure.

Al
 
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