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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I know this has been covered a few times in the past (I saw the threads) I just am spending a bundle on Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S tires and wanted to do the best I could do HOPEFULLY without fender rolling.

My proposed setup:
235/45/17 front (very conservative, because I'm super worried about rubbing

245/35/18 rear (again very skinny because I'm a first timer, but I figure the width could be a lot fatter.


I think the front will be just fine. I'm getting paranoid about the back though because these are 18X9.5 wheels and are going to be very huge.

How wide of a tire in your experience comfortably works for the rear in the Supra?

One thing to keep in mind for me is that I'm installing Fortune 500 coilovers, so no matter what I do, the car is going to be a bit lower no matter what.

Thanks for putting up with my ignorance, I've had to learn everything I didn't know about cars since I picked her up last summer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm assuming you read this. Wheel Fitment Database

I'm running 255/35R18 without any issues. They aren't even close to rubbing. 8.5" width with 50mm offset.
Thanks 3p, you always come to my rescue! I did read through that thread. The issue was almost all of them are fender rolled so that didn't help my confidence out a lot.

Sounds like you got almost the exact same tire in the back as I will have, that makes me feel better.
 

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What wheel offset? This is my car, lowered on coilovers with 18 x 9.5 +38 wheels mounted on 285/35/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires. It's VERY close, but there is no cutting/trimming of the rear quarters.

Hope this helps.




Ken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
What wheel offset? This is my car, lowered on coilovers with 18 x 9.5 +38 wheels mounted on 285/35/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires. It's VERY close, but there is no cutting/trimming of the rear quarters.

Hope this helps
Ken.
Ahh geez, I'm sorry I totally forgot to provide that info!
The offset on the rear wheels I want are 22+

I just saw fitment offers them an inch down in 18X8.5 but in that case the offset is +30.

In my mind I think 275/35/18 should work, but it's scary as hell to me at the same time.

Thanks Ken, I'm not even sure what the Super Sports are because I heard the Pilot Sport 4 S was all around the best right now. But it sounds like you have the same exact idea I do. 285 is absolutely NUTS. I would be more than happy if 275 worked, but you've given me a lot more confidence, thanks man.

I know the astronomical amount of detail and work you put into your build and buying it so your word is as good as gold.


EDIT: Going to see if Fitment can replace my back tire order with these
there was an option for normal and XL tires, but I figure XL would be nice if maybe less fuel efficient?
 

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+22 may be too aggressive even with a 275 mm tire. Your wheel will sit 16 mm closer to the rear inside edge of the rear quarter panel (or .63 inch) than my wheel of the same width. Here's a better pic of my rear set-up.

https://flic.kr/p/MzWuNG
Your tire will be 10 mm less in width to my tire, but your wheel will be 16 mm closer to the inside edge of the rear quarter panel. Your wheel is 241.3 mm wide (9.5 x 25.4). Your tire is 275 mm wide so there should be little, if any bulge, something to take into account during fitment discussions.

I am not as well versed in MKIII fitment discussions as I am with the MKIV, so only you can decide if there is enough info in this thread for you to make an informed decision.


Ken.
 
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It depends largely on how your alignment is setup once you start lowering, but judging by Ken's car and his fitment, the 18x9.5 +22 would cause an interference, almost guaranteed.

However, the outside edge of the 18x8.5 +30 would sit about 5mm further inboard, away from the fender than Ken's setup.

They may bulge a bit (you'd have to investigate) but a 255 on the 18x8.5 rims may be a solid performer to consider, especially if your set on that rim design.

Btw I'm running 17x9 +34 with 275s on my only slightly lower MKIII. No fitment issue or rubbing currently. A bit more static lowering may change this outcome, but comparing my sizes to Ken's, I dont expect that it will interfere.
 

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Given the standards and expectations you're indicating here, 18x9.5 +22 will fit like absolute dogshit. The rim will stick out beyond the fender, and stretched tires will be a requirement to not rub all the time. The fenders will eventually 'self clearance' with a good enough bump regardless of tire width choice here, even if you stretch them to hell with a tire stupidly narrow for a 9.5 width, like a 235.

18x8.5 +30 is simply too narrow IMHO. Sure it'll fit and it'll work but I promise it's not what you want.

Given that you've got a 7M-GE car, and you're spending the money on a quality set of coilovers, find quality wheels that truly match. You haven't discussed what you're considering, but cheap heavy wheels in crappy offsets will make quite literally everything worse. Your car will be slower because of the significant additional mass in the wheel and tire as well as the taller tire height, and your suspension will not perform as well. While it might 'look' cooler it'll be an unsettling compromise at best.

I would focus on finding a very lightweight 17x9 with offsets in the +35 to +40 range, and buying a matched set of four (or five, if you want to future proof for a damaged wheel)
Run 255/40/17's or 245/45/17's un-staggered (aka 'square fitment' in a quality performance tire of choice. This will allow you to rotate tires to get the most even wear possible, since the traction advantages of a staggered sizing would be wasted on an NA car and just manifest as lots of additional understeer and a nudge worse mpg.

One could do square 18x9 +35's or 18x9.5 +40ish if you wanted the bigger diameter. I'd run a 255/35 or 265/35 square tire there. Depending on the actual tire and your ride height settings you might rub at full steering lock though. But for an NA car that's going to stay an NA car for a long time, I'd encourage you to stick with 17's just for the weight considerations.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Given the standards and expectations you're indicating here, 18x9.5 +22 will fit like absolute dogshit. The rim will stick out beyond the fender, and stretched tires will be a requirement to not rub all the time. The fenders will eventually 'self clearance' with a good enough bump regardless of tire width choice here, even if you stretch them to hell with a tire stupidly narrow for a 9.5 width, like a 235.

18x8.5 +30 is simply too narrow IMHO. Sure it'll fit and it'll work but I promise it's not what you want.

Given that you've got a 7M-GE car, and you're spending the money on a quality set of coilovers, find quality wheels that truly match. You haven't discussed what you're considering, but cheap heavy wheels in crappy offsets will make quite literally everything worse. Your car will be slower because of the significant additional mass in the wheel and tire as well as the taller tire height, and your suspension will not perform as well. While it might 'look' cooler it'll be an unsettling compromise at best.

I would focus on finding a very lightweight 17x9 with offsets in the +35 to +40 range, and buying a matched set of four (or five, if you want to future proof for a damaged wheel)
Run 255/40/17's or 245/45/17's un-staggered (aka 'square fitment' in a quality performance tire of choice. This will allow you to rotate tires to get the most even wear possible, since the traction advantages of a staggered sizing would be wasted on an NA car and just manifest as lots of additional understeer and a nudge worse mpg.

One could do square 18x9 +35's or 18x9.5 +40ish if you wanted the bigger diameter. I'd run a 255/35 or 265/35 square tire there. Depending on the actual tire and your ride height settings you might rub at full steering lock though. But for an NA car that's going to stay an NA car for a long time, I'd encourage you to stick with 17's just for the weight considerations.
These are the style wheels I was originally thinking of.

This build (which looks remarkably like Ken's!) got me wanting them and a similar fitment since they say no rubbing.


I'm been thinking about what you said though, and you might be right. 30+ is as high as those wheels go though, so with that in mind I found these for a square setup:

They come in both +35 and +45 offsets. Would +45 be a good choice?
 

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These are the style wheels I was originally thinking of.

This build (which looks remarkably like Ken's!) got me wanting them and a similar fitment since they say no rubbing.


I'm been thinking about what you said though, and you might be right. 30+ is as high as those wheels go though, so with that in mind I found these for a square setup:

They come in both +35 and +45 offsets. Would +45 be a good choice?
Those ESR's are shameless, blatant copies of a much higher end forged wheel, the Volk TE37. I absolutely despise cheap wheel companies that essentially make 'fake' versions of higher quality wheels. I have nothing against cheaper wheels in general, not everyone needs a forged high end wheel, but they can at least make their own designs. I appreciated XXR for that reason for a long time

Enkei meanwhile are a quality Japanese company that make some very excellent semi-spun forged wheels (basically a cast wheel with some forged-wheel qualities) that are easy on the budget and are actually offered in sizes that you know, fit.They do a lot of load testing and engineering work for other high end Japanese wheel companies, including Rays Engineering aka Volk. So really any Enkei is a great choice for a low/mid cost wheel.

For a 17x9 I'd go +35 all around. I had a set of four 17x10 +35 5Zigen FN01R-C's back in the day, wearing 275/40/17's all around and those fit all four corners, barely (some rubbing at full steering lock) The 17x9 in the same offset gives you an additional half-inch of clearance on the inside and outside of the wheel so it'll be just about right.

If you dig the 6-spoke look but want an original wheel, Enkei makes a model called the T6R available in black and 17x9 +40 that'd be just about perfect for what you want. Not backordered and waiting on shipment from Japan, either.
It's also less expensive since it's from their tuning lineup instead of the racing series lineup like the PF09. I'd expect the T6R's to be a few pounds heavier each as a result, but nothing insane like some of these other cheap cast wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Those ESR's are shameless, blatant copies of a much higher end forged wheel, the Volk TE37. I absolutely despise cheap wheel companies that essentially make 'fake' versions of higher quality wheels. I have nothing against cheaper wheels in general, not everyone needs a forged high end wheel, but they can at least make their own designs. I appreciated XXR for that reason for a long time
It's funny you say that because before this I was dead set on Watanabe replicas from JR wheels. Only thing that stopped me was they only come in zero to negative offset. That eight-spoke tube look is bar none the coolest out there for me.

Anyway, taking your advice, I altered my order to:

Wheels

Tires:

I still wanted big fat tires in the back, but this will be less of a headache. I'm just hoping 245/40 up front won't rub. I do appreciate everyone's help!
 
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It's funny you say that because before this I was dead set on Watanabe replicas from JR wheels. Only thing that stopped me was they only come in zero to negative offset. That eight-spoke tube look is bar none the coolest out there for me.

Anyway, taking your advice, I altered my order to:

Wheels

Tires:

I still wanted big fat tires in the back, but this will be less of a headache. I'm just hoping 245/40 up front won't rub. I do appreciate everyone's help!
The heart wants what it wants, believe me, I understand.

Watanabe themselves make the F8 in 17x9, +30/35/40 sizing.

Not cheap, but quality Japanese wheels never were cheap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Necro'ing this thread to say thanks to all who helped me and I'm giving a solid recommend to these tires and wheels.

17x9 Matte Gunmetal Wheel Enkei PF09 35+ offset - ($1,779 with ceramic coating)
245/40 ZR17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S - ($884)
Tirestickers.com supplied the customs letters and I put them on by hand. ($120)
Obviously had to spruce up behind the wheel too now since you can see it with a $230 drilled/slotted rotor and pad set off Amazon. Thrilled about them for the price! Sprayed calipers and relubed ($200 myself and a shop to get the stuck calipers off with an air hammer.)
Overall: $3,400 for the whole package and rotor/brake stuff. Almost half the value of the original car purchase lol.

They handle WAY better than the old ones, way more grip. Brakes work a lot better too, much better pedal feel. Could not be happier with the look and the gunmetal almost exactly matches the paint!
Wheel Tire Vehicle Window Hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Your car looks good with those wheel specs; and gives you a nice option of going to wider tires if you want to.

BTW, what happened to your front lip?
Oh the one under the front bumper? It was never there and I never knew when buying to ask about it.

I bought a fiberglass one from Shine auto this summer, but installing it has completely baffled me so I'm searching around for smaller shops that will. that's JUST for test fitting. That piece plus both bumpers and the front upper lip need to be resprayed along with the targa top. Going to probably as me as much as this entire tire/wheel/brake setup.
 

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Oh the one under the front bumper? It was never there and I never knew when buying to ask about it.

I bought a fiberglass one from Shine auto this summer, but installing it has completely baffled me so I'm searching around for smaller shops that will. that's JUST for test fitting. That piece plus both bumpers and the front upper lip need to be resprayed along with the targa top. Going to probably as me as much as this entire tire/wheel/brake setup.
Yeah the one under the front bumper. That lip gets hit by road trash, rocks, steep driveways, speed bumps, etc. so the previous owner probably just trashed it.
Hmm, I thought that Shine auto stuff would be close to plug and play but yeah, you'll be the one who'll figure out how it should fit, lol.
My lip has a crack and was twisted but managed to salvage it by gluing a long piece of aluminum to maintain its original shape and keep the crack from becoming bigger. Someone on here posted this fix but can't remember who.
 

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Yeah the one under the front bumper. That lip gets hit by road trash, rocks, steep driveways, speed bumps, etc. so the previous owner probably just trashed it.
Hmm, I thought that Shine auto stuff would be close to plug and play but yeah, you'll be the one who'll figure out how it should fit, lol.
My lip has a crack and was twisted but managed to salvage it by gluing a long piece of aluminum to maintain its original shape and keep the crack from becoming bigger. Someone on here posted this fix but can't remember who.
Mine was also cracked and twisted when I got it. When I took it off to repair it, my dumbass ugga dugga'd too hard and broke a couple of the studs. At some point I need to drill them out and replace them with some standard metric bolts. Word of wisdom: don't be like me.
 
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