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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I'd post this up since I always see people asking how much rebuilds cost, what they should do etc. This rebuild is pretty much the standard for a motor than can hold ~600rwhp on the dyno and ~500rwhp driven. Theres alot more that you could do to make it more reliable of course, but this is a good compromise between price/future reliability. Keep in mind that the machine work is being done at a very reputable shop and therefore the prices may seem higher than what you're used to. I don't want to do this twice, so I went with the best shop in town, all assuming you do your own disassembly/reassembly of the motor.

*$400.00 5 Angle Head Job
$110.00 Hot Tank/Bead Blast Motor Assembly
$75.00 Shot Peen/Polish Rods
$60.00 Resize Rods
**$75.00 Deck/Lap Head & Block
$125.00 Bore/Hone .02 Over
$80.00 Grind/Polish Crank
$95.00 Full Rotating Assembly Balance
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$1020.00


$710.00 JE Pistons & Rings
$157.00 Cometic Metal Headgasket
$101.00 ARP Head Studs
$111.00 ARP Main Studs
$51.00 ARP Rod Bolts
$128.00 Full Gasket Set (ebay)
***$376.00 OEM Wiring Harness (jay marks toyota, THANKS JEFF!!)
$167.00 OEM Oil Pump (also jay marks)
OEM Rod Bearings $---
OEM Main Bearings $---
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$1801.00



TOTAL $2821.00 (minus bearings, which I will post once they resize my rods and measure main clearances)

*Might not be necessary in your situation, get your head examined first. My valves were not sealing and this particular shop charges the same for 5-angle as 3-angle.

**Stress this and make sure its machined as flat as possible, make sure they know its for a very sensitive metal headgasket application! Previous experience with metal headgaskets is a major bonus when deciding on a machine shop for this job. If you have to, get the head done somewhere else for a higher fee, but get it done right!

***Not 100% necessary, but IMHO a VERY good precaution against future wiring/sensor issues which freaking SUCK. My harness was bordering on 18 years of california weather, so most of it just cracked if I so much as brushed against it!
 

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Very nice write up man. This will answer a lot of questions people have. You answered some of mine. Good job. :)
 

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Stock Boost SUX
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Supranaut said:
Thats super cheap for shotpeening and resizing the rods!
I paid $15 per rod for shot-peening AND resizing for ARPs. :D

I LOOOOOOOVE the way that new harness looks. I may buy one in the near future.
 

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looking good how much was the wiring harness and how do you get ahold of jay marks toyota?
 

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YEA, looking good, my machine work was way more expensive.

here are something you might want to add.
timing belt
alternator belt
toyota coolant
water pump
all new coolant hoses
FIPG
thrust washers
oil pump shaft bearings

also don't be suprised if yuor machine shop hits you up with bills for stuff like: putting pistons on rods, sizing the rings and stuff like that.

also when i did my rebuild i got new freeze plugs and i had the crank R&R'ed. (where they take out all the plugs and super clean all the oil passages in the crank.)

if you going this far, it's best not to take short- cuts

keep us posted

btw.. i spent about 5,000 on my rebuild. i know i paid alot, but she is running good.
 

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This Is Why I'm Hot.....
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Awesome list.....just make sure the timing cover gets machined with the block! We want pics when it's put together, thnx & good luck on the adventure you're about to embark upon.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the tips, especially that timing cover! I completely forgot to drop that off in my rush with everything!! Geez, good call :)

Water pump is new with a lifetime warranty from autozone (its one of those things I like to get a warranty on -- not an option when OEM).

Timing belt has ~15,000 miles on it, looks in great condition so I'll go ahead and reuse it this time since my budget is stretching thin for now and theres higher priorities at the moment :)

Accessory belts were another thing I forgot to order, so I'll throw those in with my bearings...

Coolant hoses -- these will be new FOR SURE. Does anyone have an easy diagram or maybe part number listing of these? I'll talk to Jeff Watson later this week, perhaps he might already have such a listing.

FIPG -- good idea, I'll throw that in with my order also.

Thrust washers, what are these for and where do they go? If you mean the washers for the valve covers, those came with my gasket set (I'll post pics of the whole set later).

Oil Pump Shaft Bearings - these don't come with the oil pump assembly? Do you know how much they are?


This is definitely a learning experience for me, I'm not claiming to know everything but I want to share the whole thing with everyone so others might benefit down the line.

I've spoken to my machine shop and there will be no hidden fees, they understand that I will be doing all reassembly and all I want from them is the machining itself and the parts they ordered! But good looking out, its easy to get screwed with stuff like that if you're not careful.

PS- What are freeze plugs?
 

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1.5JZ Turbo Supra
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WOW that wiring harness is bitchin.! Dude sell your old one u will make atleast 100 bux so the new one will really cost you only what 200 some odd bux ;)
 

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...heading for 500+ RWHP
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That's the cheapest price I've seen on a new engine harness.....hummmmm....I may have to get one:D

BTW Great write up!!! Gives us a good set of numbers to look at!
 
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That's Fantastic!!!
oh, & by the way,

cre3d said:
In your response to this thread that you probably closed, I wanted to post the following but it had already been locked up by the time I wrote my reply.
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=271769&perpage=25&pagenumber=4


Hey cre3d, on behalf of all that had conflicting ideas in this thread, STFU & keep your rude, cheap & adolecent humor to yourself.
Just because people don't agree, does not give you a valid excuse to act like the stupid ass you most likely are.

I was speaking for two of the biggest contributors to the community on this and another forum. Although they may not want me to, my sense of honor told me to post it. I was speaking for the sake of others; not for myself.

I don't believe your reply was fitting at all.
What a stupid post indeed on your part.
If you can't keep up in a civil conversation (as you have proven), just stay out of it.
In the future, don't start shit for no reason.
I know most of what I am telling you won't register in your head due to your seemingly substandard intelligence.
At your age, you should really know much better by now.
 

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if oyu look at the tsrm the thrust washers go next the the #4 main journal and the oil pump bearings go inside the block. it's what keeps the oil pump shaft working probably.

changing these is a must
 

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JZA70 448 rwhp everyday
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I recommend having a shop assemble the bottom end. Eventhough I set all my clearences, used new bearings that were the proper size I am starting to notice slight rod knock at idle sometimes. Im not doubting your mechanical ability, but 7ms are finicky.

~scott
 
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IF you get new toyota thrust washers, make sure you check the crank clearance. If the clearance isn't enough, u won't have enough oil between the crank and the washer and that will give you crank walk really quick.
Make sure that they grinded your piston rings to adjust the ring gap, otherwise you'll have to do that yourself. Some shops don't do that in case you want to set your own clearance. If you've never done it before, get them to do it. Just make sure to tell them what gap you want. It's easy to do with a ring gapping tool, but a bitch to do otherwise.
These prices are fair. About what my machine shop charges. Make sure you give them new stem seals (should come with the gasket kit) so they can install it during the head work.
I'd get them to do a vacuum/pressure test of the head and to polish your cams as well.
Question for you, did you say they offered you the valve angle job to fix the fact that the valves weren't sealing right?
 
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scottiedawg66 said:
I recommend having a shop assemble the bottom end. Eventhough I set all my clearences, used new bearings that were the proper size I am starting to notice slight rod knock at idle sometimes. Im not doubting your mechanical ability, but 7ms are finicky.

~scott
Assembling the engine is a piece of cake. As long as everything is machined right, and you torque everything down properly as well molly lube everything during assembly, you shouldn't have a problem.
The 7M isn't anymore finicky than any other engine during assembly.
 
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