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Time for a rebuild for the good ole' 7M-GTE, because I spun a bearing. The motor is already out, torn down, and ready to go to the shop. My goal is a reliable daily driven 400+ - 450 horsepowered supra on pump gas for the time being. I want to get this build done right, and I'm here to ask a few ?'s concerning the build. This is going to be my daily driver by the way, so reliable is a must. I know it's only reliable as I make it to be, but this is where it starts IMO. So I've been searching the boards and asking around about what needs done for the past few weeks. And here is what I came up with so far. I'm on a budget of $1500, so try to keep that in mind.
NO TORQUE PLATE WILL BE USED! :-( Unless I can find a shop or someone near me (Topeka, Kansas) that has one.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5631
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/

^^^ These are what I've read through, along with asking tons of people about this build, and I will be printing these and this thread out and handing them to my machinist and will ask him to look it all over before any work is done.

My plans are:
BLOCK
- Get the stock rods re-sized, shot peened, and balanced with my pistons.
- Everything balanced
- Polish the rods/beams/bolts
- New Piston Rings * Make sure the rings are gapped properly*
- ARP main, head, and rodbolts
- New MHG : I already have a HKS 2.0 MHG, yes I made the mistake of ordering it before I had the block/head machined.
- Clevite 77 bearings *Use TRSM spec for ALL bearing clearances! The tight side of spec is preferred.*
- Oil Pump - 188$ from Champion/Toyota
- New auxillary Shaft bearings
- Balance the crank and have the journals micro polished
- Have the main bearing caps line honed back to spec
- All new seals

- Remember!!!
* The rod/main caps have to be torqued on (to ARP spec) BEFORE the rods are honed as part of the re-size or the mains are line honed.
* Make sure the RA (Roughness Average) spec is met for decking the block/head...this is critical!*
* Make sure the front timing plate is machined at the same time as the block, otherwise it will be higher than the block deck preventing the MHG from sealing.

HEAD
- New valve stem seals
- 3 angle valve job
* Check all springs for compression spec
* Check the valve clearances (lash) before the motor is installed...
* Make sure the cam shaft caps are torqued to spec...there is a pattern in the TRSM!

Well that just about sums it all up! Any advice on anything else I should do, have done, noted - ANYTHING?

Sorry for the long post, any help would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
Steve
 

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Nobody ever replied?
Well, you've replied, so there's that.

But if you're looking for an answer for yourself:

My plans are:
BLOCK
  • Get the stock rods re-sized, shot peened, and balanced with my pistons.
  • Everything balanced
- Polish the rods/beams/bolts Don't do this, it accomplishes nothing and is counterproductive to shot peening on the rods.
  • New Piston Rings * Make sure the rings are gapped properly* You should really just buy forged pistons if you want a reliable 450whp. Stock pistons can do it but everything has to be perfect for it to last
  • ARP main, head, and rodbolts
  • New MHG : I already have a HKS 2.0 MHG, yes I made the mistake of ordering it before I had the block/head machined. Wait until the machine work is done so you can get the proper size head gasket
  • Clevite 77 bearings Use TRSM spec for ALL bearing clearances! The tight side of spec is preferred. Loosen up the clearances a bit for pushing nearly twice the stock HP. I've had great success with between .0012" on rods and .0015" mains. Things tend to move around a bit under the increased stress from the higher power, extra clearance gives it room to do that without trashing your bearings. Run a heavier oil to help compensate for the increase in clearance.
  • Oil Pump - 188$ from Champion/Toyota. OEM is now discontinued so you'll have to go aftermarket reman. Check your tolerances and have it dry lube coated to tighten up if needed.
  • New auxillary Shaft bearings. Skip the OEMs and go with the Technico roller bearings: 7M Auxillary Shaft Bearing
  • Balance the crank and have the journals micro polished
  • Have the main bearing caps line honed back to spec
  • All new seals
+ He said balance 3 times. It's important, but not that important. A good machine shop will make sure the rotating assembly (rods, pistons, crank) are balanced out so that one cylinder doesn't have more weight swinging around than the other 5. There's other voodoo involved with balance factor etc., but for 450whp I would just make sure pistons and rods are balanced out.

- Remember!!!
  • The rod/main caps have to be torqued on (to ARP spec) BEFORE the rods are honed as part of the re-size or the mains are line honed.
  • Make sure the RA (Roughness Average) spec is met for decking the block/head...this is critical!*
  • Make sure the front timing plate is machined at the same time as the block, otherwise it will be higher than the block deck preventing the MHG from sealing.
+ Bore and hone cylinders with front timing plate on and timing belt tensioner torqued to 36ft/lbs.

HEAD
  • New valve stem seals
  • 3 angle valve job
  • Check all springs for compression spec
  • Check the valve clearances (lash) before the motor is installed...
  • Make sure the cam shaft caps are torqued to spec...there is a pattern in the TRSM!
 
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