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Discussion Starter #1
I opened up the blown 7mgte to find some crazy damage. Part of a rod went through the block. I'm not sure what kind of damage the head takes when something major like that happens but I'm hoping the head is re useable....after taking her off it looks pretty good to the eye but I'm not sure. Now I think it would be wise to strip the head and bring it in to the machine shop to get tested.
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Discussion Starter #2
So as not to disappoint here's the pics of the carnage...when I flipped the block I could head metal shrapnel jingling around...lol upon opening the pan well you can see for yourself ...its not pretty lol, part of the knock sensor was singed among a couple other wires after the explosion.
I did get a new block with a crank....it looks to be in pretty decent shape. Although 2 pistons are taken out of it and seem cracked...the crank looks good and still see a bit of cross hatch in the cylinders.
Could I use say piston 1 and 2 from the blow motor to replace the 2 missing pistons in the good block?
This is my first build. I'd like to heed some of your advise on what to do...
I'm about to purchase the realstreet cosmetic top and bottom end gaskets...i have some ARP studs. clevite rods mains and thrust washers. ..and I really don't want to spend the 2k+ canadian on the forged eagle rods and pistons ...unless someone could hook a brotha up with some kinda bargain ;) .in the mean time could you guys lend me some advise. 20200405_153159.jpg 20200405_154915_005.jpg 20200405_155026_001.jpg 20200405_155029_006.jpg 20200405_155032.jpg 20200405_155045.jpg 20200405_163845.jpg 20200405_163856_001.jpg 20200322_194239.jpg
 

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holy crap, grenade is about the right thing.

On reusing old parts, it will cost you in the long run so if you are doing it because of impatience. Yep, that will definitely be a costly mistake.
 

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What is your intention for the engine here? I'm asking because if you are planning to modify the boost and beat on the engine, then you can't do that (pick parts from a damaged engine) on a budget. On your first build. Without proper machinist tools. So shed some light on what your plan is.

Also, you're talking about the Cometic gasket kit. I looked it up and it's only the top end gaskets for $217. You'll still need timing gaskets, oil pan gaskets, water pump gasket, etc. So I suggest you look at Rock Auto for complete kits at lower prices.

I think you can do what you describe - put two pistons in where you need two. But you'd better ask a lot of questions here and be a precise person if you expect to pull this off on your first rebuild. Keep asking questions.
 

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..... talking about the Cometic gasket kit. I looked it up and it's only the top end gaskets for $217. You'll still need timing gaskets, oil pan gaskets, water pump gasket, etc.
The 7M doesn't use a pan gasket......
I know that people who make 7M gasket sets include them, but that is only because they have 'merican V8s tattooed on their brain.
Toyota uses their gray sealer, which is also available from Permatex, called Ultra Gray, p/n 82194.
Use a gasket, and forever chase oil leaks, just like shitty chevy owners do.

Besides, you need the same sealer for the front 2 cam bearing caps, and the corners cam cover molded gaskets.
But first, buy a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, it has all this in it.........
Can't afford a factory manual, you can't afford the car.....
 

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You have no idea how many people who use the TSRM, that miss stuff, especially using a cell phone.
A book can have pages marked with a real book mark, and can easily be turned from one section to another.
Again, too cheap to buy a used manual off eBay for $50, you can'y afford the car, it is that important.
I bought my first one new for $90 when I bought my first 7M powered car in '93.
Hasn't let me down, ever.

Don't get me wrong, I send a lot of people to the TSRM for simple stuff, but engine building, or diagnosing electrical gremlins, there is no substitute for the book.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What is your intention for the engine here? I'm asking because if you are planning to modify the boost and beat on the engine, then you can't do that (pick parts from a damaged engine) on a budget. On your first build. Without proper machinist tools. So shed some light on what your plan is.

Also, you're talking about the Cometic gasket kit. I looked it up and it's only the top end gaskets for $217. You'll still need timing gaskets, oil pan gaskets, water pump gasket, etc. So I suggest you look at Rock Auto for complete kits at lower prices.

I think you can do what you describe - put two pistons in where you need two. But you'd better ask a lot of questions here and be a precise person if you expect to pull this off on your first rebuild. Keep asking questions.
Thanks Doug, figgie.
I think I just want to pretty much get it to stock. Like I said I've never done anything this in-depth into cars but I think my mind is made up atleast for now... well maybe 300hp sounds good. I just really want to do this. Make this thing run again. I mean I know partly how a supra feels since I have 2 lol the other with a 7mge that's probably do for some head work and a head gasket job, but It runs. And I've never had a turbo vehicle. I just dream of the day I fire it up but man is it ever hard to shop for this stuff. I don't want to cheap out but I don't want to go full race mode either....asmuch as I would love to. I'm just scared to spend money and mess things up. I'm an electrician by trade and I have a buddy who works with me but also has his redseal in motorcycle mechanics. So we're both trying to peice this thing together in a way. But I know he just wants to get a good deal on one once we get the turbo running lol... i made another thread saying how I wish there was a live chat section on this forum. I just think it would help so much...incase anyone was wondering I live in Vancouver B.C. if anyone has any recommendations on machine shops or anything that could help me it would be much appreciated. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You have no idea how many people who use the TSRM, that miss stuff, especially using a cell phone.
A book can have pages marked with a real book mark, and can easily be turned from one section to another.
Again, too cheap to buy a used manual off eBay for $50, you can'y afford the car, it is that important.
I bought my first one new for $90 when I bought my first 7M powered car in '93.
Hasn't let me down, ever.

Don't get me wrong, I send a lot of people to the TSRM for simple stuff, but engine building, or diagnosing electrical gremlins, there is no substitute for the book.
I printed 98 pages from the engine mechanical section to help me tear down the motor...hole punched it and put in a binder. Works great. I agree though reading on a cell was giving me cataracts lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Was the rod bearing making any noise before?
No idea...but I'm guessing all sorts of things were going wrong / making noises and the guy just kept running it. Told me when I bought it he thought the motor was SEIZED LOL...guess you could call it seized if a rod is sitting sideways in the block.
 

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I've had the TSRM book for 20 years, but these days I rarely use it. My laptop is already with me because I'm tracking something in a spreadsheet, datalogging, or documenting things in PowerPoint, and having the TSRM in a web browser is very convenient. And I never said anything about cell phones.
 

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I use both digital and analog TSRM, both have their place.

Savage, whatever you do, don't rush things, that's when they don't work out. Take your time, do things right. Take the time to realize that sometimes, it's cheaper in the long run, to spend the money up front for new components, where appropriate, and when used components are acceptable.

Example, my fuel tank had sat for years with gas in it, as a result, it was rather rusty inside. Considering I had spent an embarrassing amount on my engine build I didn't want to take the risk of exposing the engine to nasty gunk in the fuel. Soooo, I bought a fuel cell. Not ideal, and not my first choice, which would have been a new OEM tank. However, sometimes things just aren't available. Take the time in situations like this to step back and analyze your situation, and what's best for the car in the long run.

Good luck!
 

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I'd order the full kit from Rock Auto and use your noggin as to which parts you can salvage. The service manual gives guidance on things and plastigage can reassure you on bearing clearances. EDIT: Also I have a thread on here where I'm rebuilding a 7MG with everyday parts and you're about a month behind me if watching that helps you.
 

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For liquid gaskets, use HondaBond. Yeah, get the FSM, not a Haynes or other auto store manual. You can get the real deal at www.helminc.com
 

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You have no idea how many people who use the TSRM, that miss stuff, especially using a cell phone.
A book can have pages marked with a real book mark, and can easily be turned from one section to another.
Again, too cheap to buy a used manual off eBay for $50, you can'y afford the car, it is that important.
I bought my first one new for $90 when I bought my first 7M powered car in '93.
Hasn't let me down, ever.

Don't get me wrong, I send a lot of people to the TSRM for simple stuff, but engine building, or diagnosing electrical gremlins, there is no substitute for the book.
Yep, I bought these off Ebay last year and it's really been a help.
250191
250192
 
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