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i <3 fitness chicks
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I have a problem. Lets hope this makes sense... Well, I'm currently in the process of dropping my rebuilt motor in my car, but now im held up by my clutch. It's an RPS Stage 3 and it's shot. If you recall the thread i posted, the disk is worn down almost even with the rivets and the pressure plate is scored on the outside. I'm held up at this point because i dont know what to do. I obviously need a new clutch. But the problem about this is: If i get a new clutch i will have to break it in, which means easy driving, and stay off the boost. Whereas, for engine break in, you want to do different loads and different rpms, which even means WOT at low boost... So you see, the two methods contradict each other. Now, i dont know if i should just order the clutch and do a break in on the motor and then hope i get lucky with the clutch? Or i dont know whether i should put the no-good RPS clutch back in JUST for the engine break in, THEN order another clutch... I really dont want to have to go back in and take apart the tranny and such. If some of you guys with real experience can give me some insight, that would be GREATLY, GREATLY appreciated! I hope this thread makes sense...

- John
 

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when this baby hits 88mph
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john-
umm where did you get the idea of breaking in a motor doing wot at low boost? a little boost is ok but you really shouldnt go over 3k or so.
that being said- i think you should do both at the same time.

dave
 

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i <3 fitness chicks
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Discussion Starter #3
dbsupra said:
john-
umm where did you get the idea of breaking in a motor doing wot at low boost? a little boost is ok but you really shouldnt go over 3k or so.
that being said- i think you should do both at the same time.

dave
Many people break in their motor that way, it creates good compression in the cylinders. I have pm'd a few people on this board asking what their opinion is on how to break in a motor and in some way or another they say to do different loads and such. Some say to go to redline, some say dont go past 4k. Orian broke his motor in doing different loads at low boost and he has 160compression across the board. I'm almost positive he had less than 500 miles on his motor when he dynoed at 21psi... Orian if you read this, correct me if i am wrong...
 

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Asshole MKIV owner.
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John. The only thing you don't want to do with a new clutch is SLIP it. But once it is engadged it is good to go, and it won't slip. Just slip the clutch as little as possible. I say follow the same break in process that I did. My motor has 160 compression. The last time I dynoed my car it had 300 miles on it and I ran 21psi on pump.
 

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when this baby hits 88mph
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ah ok i follow you john. higher gear wot limited rpm. that i will agree with. all i could see was you puttin the hammer down 24psi 6500rpm tires blazin on a fresh motor. i would never ever run high boost or hi rpm for atleast the first 500 miles. thats just me tho. im more cautious than most.
i still say do them both at the same time tho.

dave
 

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i <3 fitness chicks
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Discussion Starter #6
dbsupra said:
ah ok i follow you john. higher gear wot limited rpm. that i will agree with. all i could see was you puttin the hammer down 24psi 6500rpm tires blazin on a fresh motor. i would never ever run high boost or hi rpm for atleast the first 500 miles. thats just me tho. im more cautious than most.
i still say do them both at the same time tho.

dave
Ya thats what i meant. Hahaha, not beat the shit out of it. ;) I would like to break both in at once, but i think you guys are missing it. From what i understand about break in methods:

Clutch - Go easy; stay out of boost; no heavy load
Engine - Vary load; boost to create compression

Its like the two methods would contradict each other, so thats why im confused. Make sense?

- John
 

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As SupraspeedMKIII said, Just don't slip the clutch and you will be set. As long as you know you are tuned well, run it HARD right from the start.
 
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