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Discussion Starter #1
i bought a hks ssbov for the stock location and a recirulation kit that was nothing more than a peice of pipe that goes in the end of the bov. i thought i was doing the rite thing by buying the recirculation kit (so i didnt run to rich)and making it easier for myself by puting it in the stock location. but dont see this working out for me. i was wondering if anyone has bought any of these products and got them to work or am i the only dumbass that tried this? my car is bpu. what setup is everyone else runnin?
 

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You have to put a hose on the end of the pipe that now sticks out of the bov and route it back into the intake tube after the MAF just before the turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i know that but its hard to explain unless u are looking at it.there is no room to route it back to stock location. and the pipe size on bov is 1" the stock location pipe size is 3/4". the only way i see this working is taping a 1" hole in the intake after the maf.
 

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:scratch: Sounds like you have an incomplete kit. The recirculation kit is more than just one hose. Mine included a cap for the opening that's left near the air intake where you remove the stock hose, one hose to connect the HKS BOV to the opening near where the passenger side intercooler pipe connects to your turbo piping, and a third hose that runs from the nipple on the BOV to the same location as the hose that was connected to the nipple on your stock BOV. It also comes with a mounting bracket to hold it in the same area your stock BOV was in. I believe with all the hoses, clips, etc. there were 13 pieces to the recircualtion kit.
 

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There is no hose that goes there. There's a cap that goes over the hole in that location. You will only have hoses running from two locations after installing the HKS BOV instead of three locations like the stock BOV.
 

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SUPRASTITIOUS said:
:scratch: Sounds like you have an incomplete kit. The recirculation kit is more than just one hose. Mine included a cap for the opening that's left near the air intake where you remove the stock hose, one hose to connect the HKS BOV to the opening near where the passenger side intercooler pipe connects to your turbo piping, and a third hose that runs from the nipple on the BOV to the same location as the hose that was connected to the nipple on your stock BOV. It also comes with a mounting bracket to hold it in the same area your stock BOV was in. I believe with all the hoses, clips, etc. there were 13 pieces to the recircualtion kit.

You just described everything that comes in the relocation kit not the recirculation kit. Wap, you might have to ditch the whole stock location kit altogether and have a flange welded on the intercooler pipe. When I come back on Wednesday we can see if the recirculation works with the location of my BOV.

Buddy
 

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post some pics im sure this will help!
 

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My car came with the relocation kit when I bought it, and I purchased the recirc kit as well. I couldn't see an easy way to make the recirc work on the stock twins. The recirc kit is only an insert that adds a place for a 1" hose to clamp on for the vented air outlet. But the SSQV is long enough that you'll not likely get a hose back to the stock bypass location.

If it means anything to you, with the stock twins my car ran it as a BOV (not recirculated) for thousands of miles w/o any problem. The mixture will be really rich as soon as you get back on the throttle, but usually just for a few (un-noticeable) miliseconds. I believe I've also seen some of the piggyback units that stop the injectors from firing at times when a BOV would likely be venting.

I did add the recirc when I went single. You can see a picture here:
http://www.its2.uidaho.edu/cordon/dan/automotive/Cars/Supra_Images/Supra_03_small.jpg
When I get rid of the MAF I'm going to relocate/add BOV's to each side of the intercooler and let them be BOV's.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
im just going to vent for the time being and see what happens. i believe i have just identified the knock in my engine as a spun rod bering so this is not a huge priority anymore. but thanx 4 the info its appretiated
hey buddy, looks like il b riden shotty in your car on the 20th. i dont think my car will b fixed by then. we'll make steve sit in the back or make him take the talon haha.
 

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Alpine Hardtopper
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Bummer about the bearing! I had a friend spin the rod bearing on his 7MGTE. I think it was #6 and we were concerned about the engine getting enough oil to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yea it sucks, i dont wanna buy a new short block considering i just bought the car but i think the crank is gonna be worn beyond repair. did i mention this SUCKS!!!!!
 

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22urbo said:
how do you spin a bearing if you guys dont mind me asking??....<---noob just wondering...
Its what happens when the crank mashes a bearing and it's "contoured" area that keeps it in place within the rod moves around inside the rod and end cap thus spinning out of its locators. I'm not good at explaining things but that is basically it.

If you look at the right of this bearing that is in the rod, you will see the contoured area that I am talking about that is supposed to keep it from spinning:


This is what a spun bearing looks like on the right. You can see some of the bearing material that has been literally mashed out of the rod by the crank at the top right:
 
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