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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

If my impact gun doesnt work to remove the stock crank pulley, Im gonna give the starter/breaker bar method.

For anyone that has performed the starter/breaker bar method explain to me in detail on how to what to do/not to do:


thanks
 
S

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Don't use anything less than a 1/2" drive. :)

Good luck. I still haven't gotten mine off.. Tried a 650 FT LB impact wrench w/ no luck. Tried the starter w/ no luck. Even tried resting a breaker bar on the frame and pushing the car down a hill. Either locked up the tires (255's) or the car would buck and end up resting on the breaker bar (still on the incline). :rolleyes:

Need to take it to a truck shop (3/4 or 1" IMPACT) or get a torque multiplier..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
WOW,

Keep me updated!!!

Im also considering to just have a place work on my car that is reputable to save the troubles
 

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DONT HASSLE THE HOFF
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I tried everything on mine, 1000ft/lb impact, starter method, broke 2 craftsman 1/2 drive sockets and snapped the adapter piece off the 1/2 breaker and in the end we got it off with heating up the bolt with a MAP gas torch and using a 3/4 breaker and drive socket. I used the MAP gas with the 1/2 aswell though but the 3/4 stuff broke it lose. Use a pipe along with the breaker so you get more pull with it.
 

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wow....the starter/breaker worked fine for me.
 

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EchoDeDupra
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um... I'm trying to think what gear I put it in to break it....

I did the starter method... I put a 1/2 drive 22 mm on the bolt... got a 3 ft breaker bar... put it against the pavement.. and cranked it over a few times... and wammo!... that puppy came right off.

I would like to say it was first.... but I know I tightened it in 6th I believe.
 

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DitchByTheSideOfTheRoad
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485 Posts
I took my supra to a mechanic the first time I did it. He had it on a lift and used a breaker bar on it from the bottom with all the intercooler piping taken off. Got himself a big hammer and took a couple of swings at it, which was enough to break it free. I guess the sudden impacts help jar them free.

The time that i did it personally I used the starter method to get it off. Same as above. To tighten it on my auto I had to get "creative" heheh. Jammed a screw driver in the cam gears against a screw. We broke the screw head and the screw driver. hahah I think we got it tightened by wedging a screwdriver between the cam gears. FYI if you have to go that far, might as well replace the waterpump since you have to pull the crank pulley off to get to it anyway.
 
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Also tried a MAP gas torch w/ a 3ft breaker bar and 2 people pushing it, but it wouldn't break free.
 

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T-Power
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I think Toyota put somekind of loctite on it... Best way is heat it up with a torch, but remember it's a big bolt and the loctite is all the way at the end, so make sure it's heated throughly.
 
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I've read that it's red loctite, which is permanent. When I heated the bolt, I stayed on till smoke was coming from the timing belt cover.
 

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OCC
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Every time people ask about how to remove the crank bolt, I crack up on how people get creative in getting that big bolt loosened.

The 'proper' way, per the FSM, is to use the SST that bolts up to the front of the balancer. The SST basically keeps the crank from turning.

I use the SST along with a 3/4" drive break bar, with a 3' long section of black pipe for leverage.

Using the SST is also the only way to accurately torque the crank bolt back up to 239 ft.lbs.

As far as the break bar/starter method, I've heard of starters breaking themselves free of the block and stripping out the threads in the trans. The whole" torching the thing off" method is SCARY as well... probably end up melting the #1 main bearing...

sushi
 

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Heating that bolt is a real last resort.

Heard of quite a few cars where Toyota have heated the bolt, done the cam belt put everything back together then a few hundred miles down the road the tensioner seperates.

The outer and inner parts are bonded together with a rubber piece, so you can imagine what it goes through when the bolt (and surrounding area) gets heated up.

If you really have to heat the bolt then best practice is to swap the damper out for a new one when re-assembling.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
SST Tool

Where, what brand to buy..
 

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SST = Special Service Tool provided through Toyota. I believe there is a toyotools website that you can buy these from as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
[sst tool]

Found them on the OTC SPX website,.


Can I use the pulley puller from pepboys for the crank and the ones they sell for the camshaft ? Or is it a must to use the ones from Toyota?


Thanks
 

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EchoDeDupra
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4,122 Posts
wtf? atm machine?

i went to Autozone and rented a harmonic balancer puller.... the pulley puller was like a claw thing... you dont want that....
 
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