Supra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is rediculous... all I'm trying to do is replace my rear rotors...

How hard can it be to remove the rear rotors on this car. Emergency Brake is off, The giant 1.25" Nut is off... what else is there to removing these things?! Both of my rear rotors are still tight as if something is holding them on?! I know someone here can help me. . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yes I am very well aware of those pages as I own the FSM's... if you look however it says nothing of what the solution was which I will now post.



There are two threaded holes in the rotor that are for an 8MM X 1.25 bolt. The reason these holes are here is so when the rotor rusts to the parking brake / hub you can thread in a bolt and use it as a puller. Also you only really need one bolt to pop the rotor. Odd that I have never run into this before when working brakes on other cars. Live and learn.
 

·
Newbie
Joined
·
11,221 Posts
The rear rotors are a bitch. I've never personally removed it but I see threads on it all the time.

Try posting in the MKIV Section. If they tell you to search, say fuck you :lol: .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
so you HAVE try to insert that bolt into the rotor?...that's the last trick there is besides hack it with rubber hammer~~...if everything else is off

I just tried to search this. but...is TT MKIV's hand brake disc or drum also? since we are talking about rear brakes. I know the NA MKIV is drum e-brake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, just get the proper sized metric bolt to fit that hole, and just screw it in until the rotor pops... extremely easy. I know for a face the NA rear rotor has an 8mm threaded hole so start with that and if it's different find out the bolt size and post the size up so other will know.
 

·
Madison Motorsports
Joined
·
389 Posts
no, you don't HAVE to put that bolt in the hole, just do it the old fashioned way. Put one of the lug nuts on loosely (so the rotor doesn't fall off when it comes loose) and give it a few good hits all around on both sides with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. You don't have to wail on it, but don't baby the hammer either. It'll pop loose and the rotor will be off in less than a minute, has never failed for me.
 

·
feeding your habit
Joined
·
4,015 Posts
you need to release the parking brake adjusters (look at the backing plate from the diff side). adjust those "in" and then use the bolts to jack the rotor off. You do not need to beat on the rotor. Just release the shoes, then use the little jack bolt (the M8 you speak of above). no beating required.

you are hung up on your parking brake shoes, so you should replace them since they are probably toast now.

do not take off the big nut in the middle. If you do, then you need to properly torque it upon replacement. Something like 275#-ft.... special torque wrench for that baby.

-M
 
G

·
absolutely right...get you a big hammer bro..work your way all the way around it ...also drowned the hub in alittle wd-40 a few minutes before ya start..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mkIIIT said:
no, you don't HAVE to put that bolt in the hole, just do it the old fashioned way. Put one of the lug nuts on loosely (so the rotor doesn't fall off when it comes loose) and give it a few good hits all around on both sides with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. You don't have to wail on it, but don't baby the hammer either. It'll pop loose and the rotor will be off in less than a minute, has never failed for me.
SupraStud said:
absolutely right...get you a big hammer bro..work your way all the way around it ...also drowned the hub in alittle wd-40 a few minutes before ya start..

While your method works just fine, it seems to me that just tightening an 8mm bolt a couple turns is a much easier/cleaner way to pop off a frozen rotor. Also with the shield in the way you can only hammer about 1/4 of the rotor at a time.
 

·
Madison Motorsports
Joined
·
389 Posts
UF-Supra said:
While your method works just fine, it seems to me that just tightening an 8mm bolt a couple turns is a much easier/cleaner way to pop off a frozen rotor. Also with the shield in the way you can only hammer about 1/4 of the rotor at a time.
I don't always have a 8mm bolt handy and it actually takes the same amount of tome to pop that in there as it does to whack the rotor 3 or 4 times with a hammer and it popping off. You have your methods, I have mine and both work just the same. :bigthumb:
 

·
feeding your habit
Joined
·
4,015 Posts
mkIIIT said:
I don't always have a 8mm bolt handy and it actually takes the same amount of tome to pop that in there as it does to whack the rotor 3 or 4 times with a hammer and it popping off. You have your methods, I have mine and both work just the same. :bigthumb:

insert M8 bolt and turn 3 turns (plenty to be found on the car BTW): 8 seconds

hack and wack and smack: 4 minutes or more if the rotor is really on the pilot diameter. Not to mention you bend the shit out of the shield and ding up the rotor edge. Try this when the rotor is really really on the pilot diameter (hubcentric snout), you can be there for a long time.

-M
 

·
Madison Motorsports
Joined
·
389 Posts
98mkiv said:
insert M8 bolt and turn 3 turns (plenty to be found on the car BTW): 8 seconds

hack and wack and smack: 4 minutes or more if the rotor is really on the pilot diameter. Not to mention you bend the shit out of the shield and ding up the rotor edge. Try this when the rotor is really really on the pilot diameter (hubcentric snout), you can be there for a long time.

-M
He asked how to do it, you offered one solution, I offered another. Feel free to use your 8mm bolt and if I had one around I'd probably use it too...but I like hittin shit haha. It has never taken me more than 4 or 5 hits to get any rotor off on any of my past cars or any other for that matter, never bent the shield because I didn't hit the shield and who cares if the rotor gets fucked up if its getting replaced anyways.

Two solutions to one problem. :bigthumb:
 

·
feeding your habit
Joined
·
4,015 Posts
some people actually cut them.... $8 vs $50 for the rotor.

Some people don't mind being a hack, some do.
 
G

·
i just did my brakes last week, use the threaded holes, thats what they are there for. if you need a bolt just look under your hood.
 

·
Madison Motorsports
Joined
·
389 Posts
I said hit it because he is "all I'm trying to do is replace my rear rotors..." If he was wanting to turn them, then definantely use the bolt option.

I don't mind being a hack when you achieve the desired result.
 

·
Madison Motorsports
Joined
·
389 Posts
98mkiv said:
there is no pride in being a hack.
And you are completely entitled to your opinion. But for me, its just easier to grab a hammer off the table and smack the rotor a few times then take it off than it is to dig around in my box till I find a 8mm bolt, then get a wrench or ratchet to screw it in with, pop the rotor loose, then thread the 8mm bolt back out, then take the rotor off. Hammer is just easier to get too for me. If that's not the way you do it that's completely fine, but there is nothing wrong with doing it my way.
 

·
feeding your habit
Joined
·
4,015 Posts
if that makes you feel better..... OK. :stickpoke:
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top