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Can't wait for Spring!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
sorry for posting this. i tried to search, but all i got was HG and EGR information... go figure.

Where can i find information regarding the removal of the 7mge engine?

ie. websites, tsrm sections, manuals, books, online info, threads, ect, ect...

thank you,
 

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Hardtopper
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13,043 Posts
There was a conversation thread on the list around June or July 1999
regarding engine removal. Many, many thanks to Scott Mech, Dave Henry,
and others who participated in the conversation. I have borrowed
liberally and unashamedly from that thread. I've made some editorial
additions and modifications, but the bulk of this procedure is from that
thread.

The procedure/checklist was immensely valuable to me during my recently
completed 7MGTE rebuild project.

If y'all have any editorial suggestions send them to me. I'll be happy
to integrate them and repost.

This procedure is for 5-speed MKIII Supras Turbos. There may be
specifics that are different for automatic transmission and/or NA Supras

Put the car up on 4 jackstands - use the standard jack points for the
stands. Be SURE the car is steady and secure before climbing under it.

Cover the front quarter panels and front fascia. Protect your car from
scratches and dings!

1. Roll ALL windows up. You will be removing your battery and the
windows won't go up once the battery is out.
2. Attach a 19mm 6-point socket with a breaker bar onto crank
pulley bolt- click engine over to bust the bolt loose (works like a
charm).
3. Disconnect the hood struts where they attach to the hood. You
can use a cord tied between the hood latch and the spoiler (or something
else behind the car) to secure the hood in a near vertical orientation.
If you are doing this project outside, just remove the hood. You won't
like the outcome when a stiff breeze blows your hood backwards onto the
windshield. If you remove the hood, mark or scribe the hood location on
the brackets prior to removal - this will aid reinstalling the hood
later.
4. Remove the bottom engine cover if you still have one
5. Drain the tranny fluid, engine oil, and coolant. Do this as you
perform other tasks. You might think it not necessary to drain your
expensive synthetic transmission oil, but if you don't, it will come out
the rear of the transmission while you are pulling the engine out with
the hoist, so do it now.
6. Open gas door and remove gas filler cap - leave door open
7. Remove battery
8. Remove glove box
9. Remove ECU
10. Unplug rest of connectors up there - HAC, ABS
11. Pull main harness grommet the off firewall from the outside w/
small flatblade screwdriver. Pull the main harness and connectors
through the grommet hole.
12. Remove center console interior piece that radio goes in.
13. Put transmission in neutral.
14. Remove gear shift, but leave in car.
15. Stuff a rag in the gearshift hole of the transmission. This is
to prevent dirt, undercoating, foreign objects, etc. from getting in
your transmission.
16. Remove turbo heat shield
17. Remove the exhaust. Depending on your exhaust, it may be easy
to just remove the downpipe (can take elbow off if you must). If the
nuts and bolts between the downpipe and the second cat are impossibly
frozen, you can remove the entire exhaust as a unit. Remove the three
downpipe to turbo elbow nuts first. Use a 14mm 6-point socket and a
universal joint with a long extension.
18. Remove driveshaft. Separate the driveshaft from the
differential first (14 mm fasteners). You can use the parking brake to
keep the driveshaft from rotating as you loosen the fasteners. Drop
the carrier bearing assembly and remove the tunnel brace. The
driveshaft pulls straight out from the rear of the transmission. Some
have successfully pulled the driveshaft from the transmission by
lowering the center bearing and the brace in the tunnel, but leaving the
driveshaft bolted to the differential.
19. Remove speedo cable from tranny. Stuff a clean rag in this
opening also.
20. Remove clutch slave cylinder and mount that holds the hydraulic
line to body. Place the slave cylinder out of the way, but be careful
not to kink or stress the lines or hoses.
21. Remove fuel line at the union just to left side of slave
cylinder (take the little black plastic cover off. - use 2 wrenches (if
it wont break free- spray WD40 or equiv. on it and do this later - BUT
DON'T FORGET). Gasoline will drip out and down your arms - be prepared.
If your tank is full, there is the potential to drip a lot of gasoline
here. Be prepared to plug the supply and return lines leading to the
rear of the car. A section of rubber hose capped at one end with the
right sized screw or bolt works fine.
22. Remove the ground wire/strap between the transmission and body
in this area - don't be suprised if it is missing - undo it if you find
one
23. Remove the big hose from fender to 3k pipe
24. Remove the accordion hose to turbo intake with air cleaner
attached
25. Loosen and pull down the turbo-to-intercooler hose where it
attaches to turbo (or spend $$$ later - the hoist will destroy it if you
don't)
26. Undo upper and lower radiator hoses - take them off at engine
too
27. Unclip the electric fan wire(s) depending on year.
28. Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose at the top of the
radiator.
29. Loosen the 4 12mm bolts fan pulley nuts with a wrench (socket
won't fit here)
30. Take the fan out with the radiator - hold the fan to radiator
and lift all it out. Tighten the radiator drain plug now so you don't
have to remember later.
31. Loosen PS adj. bolt and alternator adj., and the a/c belt idler
and take all the belts off.
32. Unbolt the AC compressor. There are four long bolts that go
through the compressor to the bracket - leave the bracket on the engine.
Loosen the 4 long bolts with ratchet for some and you will have to use a
12mm wrench for others. The top two may be hard to get out - it's OK to
leave them in the compressor. Make sure the compressor is free from the
bracket.
33. Remove the PS pump bolt from the PS pump mounting bracket and
position the PS pump out of way.
34. Remove groundstrap from rear exhaust side of the engine (goes to
throttle bracket).
35. Remove the 2 throttle cables from the throttle bracket and stick
out of the way - OR take throttle bracket off and push out of way.
36. Disconnect wires around where the fuse box is - you will see
what can stay with the engine to come out. Leave as much hooked to
engine as humanly possible - makes reassembly much quicker. - the DIAG
block comes out with the harness and engine.
37. Pull other fuel line off - down bottom on intake side - the one
that is a hose with clamp to pipe not the banjo one (its already off).
38. Remove the brake booster line off of manifold and turn upward.
39. Take the vacuum line off of back on intake manifold (by EGR) -
It is a very good idea here remove the screw in nipple it attaches to -
it is easy to break.
40. Take both heater hoses off - one on the right side by the
charcoal canister and the other near the brake booster. Position a
piece of wood near the one by the brake booster or it may be smashed
when you take engine out
41. Put a jack under the tranny, but forward from the mount to the
body. Use the jack to take the weight off the transmission mount.
Remove the transmission mount.
42. Remove the 2 engine mount bolts - on 90 and greater and some 89s
you may want to unbolt the fluid mount on both sides (top and bottom) of
mount or they may break.
43. Unbolt crossmember under the oil pan.
44. Remove oil cooler lines by the I/C on the right hand side - be
prepared to plug both the oil cooler hard lines and the oil cooler hoses
if you don't want oil trails and/or puddles on the floor. A sandwich
baggie over the end and a rubber band will work OK.
45. Lower jack down and out from under tranny and take it out of the
way
46. Set ECU harness and connectors on the engine where they can't
get hurt.
47. Get an assistant - engine removal can be done solo, but it's
better to have another brain and set of hands. SH%#%#*^*G*t happens and
if you die with the engine out, no one will even want your car.
48. Jack the hoist all the way to sky and release it - let it bleed
all the air out - be prepared that your hoist may be a POS and may rape
the front of your car - Scott Mech's 90T got raped by a new hoist that
had an air pocket in the ram - even though he had bled it before. Be
PREPARED for that thing to drop the engine - just in case.
49. Attach a chain around lift hook by alternator and to back of
engine - there is a hook there where the heater hose runs - this will
work. Make sure you are working with a good chain and hardware! Don't
skimp here. If you aren't sure the chain and fasteners are strong
enough, they probably are not. You may want to stuff a bolt through the
chain links on either side of the hoist hook to prevent the chain from
sliding through the hook at an inconvenient time. If you can get a load
leveler, get one - it will be easier. SLOWLY jack this thing up. The
engine will barely clear the oil pan over the center support. the rest
out - good luck


Some reinstallation thoughts...

If the car has ABS, LEAVE the harness that runs over the tranny to the
passenger side out of the clip on top of the tranny. You will thank
yourself on the next BHG replacement...you won't have to drop the tranny
down to disconnect it...simply take the harness out of the other clips
and pull it down on the passenger side...just enough room to unhook it.


Putting the engine in presents a few other problems as well! It is 10x
easier to pull the engine because the tranny "naturally" follows the
tranny tunnel and comes out on it's own angle. However putting it back
in, you need to really pry and push that fat tranny's butt back down to
get it in the car! You need a helper for this part! Also lube up the
motor mounts so they slide easily into place. This is a good tip!

You may want to use a floor jack to lift tranny up as you put it down
in, this helps to get it right in.

Hope this helps!

Ron Jarvis, 87T
 

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Can't wait for Spring!
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2,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks kirk! I apprecaite it!
 

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Not ur jizz, not ur bizz
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6,571 Posts
question..ive removed my engine like 4 times..why does it say open gas door and gas cap?

what does that do?
 

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Can't wait for Spring!
Joined
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2,364 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
taking a shot in the dark, but thats probably so when you are disconnecting the fuel lines and stuff, a nuetral atmospheric pressure is kept in the tank.
 
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