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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok , I was working off the TRSM instructions and I got the sensors off and got the mount off. I am stuck at the step where it says to remove the propeller shaft? Is that how you remove the Driveshaft? It doesnt really go into detail as to how to get it off and where and what it is. lol. I guess a special tool is needed? Said something about that?

I know this might sound dumb, but this is my 1st RWD tranny drop. lol
 

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Propeller shaft = driveshaft

Remove the 4 bolts/nuts before the carrier bearing, remove the carrier bearing support bracket, and the rear section of the driveshaft should be able to fall down, then just slide the front section of the driveshaft out of the tranny. The only special tools you might need are a pair of 12mm wrenches and probably some liquid wrench/penetrating solvent.
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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Discussion Starter #3
Ok , ill check that out then. That is after like where the cat would be right?LIttle bit further back on the car?
 

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Honestly, I don't know. My supra came with most of the exhaust pieces in the back seat and hatch so I'm not entirely sure when they end up under the car. If you look at the driveshaft you will see right away what im talking about, its about 2ft away from the tranny and has a 4bolt flange connecting the 2 pieces of the driveshaft.
 

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Token Black Fry
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364 Posts
yeah the driveshaft just slides out once you remove the four bolts for the carrier bearing and then four more from the flange that connects the shaft to the differential. there is also a small bar that acts as a driveshaft loop that should be removed (it makes things much easier) other than that the shaft slides backward right out of the transmission. no special tools needed.
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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Discussion Starter #6
ok thanks. I didnt see that last night. Everything looked like slip fitted. So Im sure I missed something.
Thanks. Ill check it out tonight when I get home

BTW i already got that mount/DS loop off. So the tranny is sitting down in the back a little. I just didnt see where to unbolt the driveshaft at.
 

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Token Black Fry
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364 Posts
i'll warn you, if you leave the tranny tail end down with the DS removed after about 3 days all of the oil will probably leak out, make sure you have some extra tranny oil. and it makes quite a mess too.
 

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boost freak
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10,042 Posts
drain trans
drop exhaust
remove 4 bolts connecting DS to diff
remove 2 bolts connecting center support bearing to body
remove DS
remove slave cyl
remove clutch fork
remove both inspection covers
remove all PP bolts
remove trans->engine bolts
remove trans

don't forget to remove the shifter....
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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6,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ian333 said:
i'll warn you, if you leave the tranny tail end down with the DS removed after about 3 days all of the oil will probably leak out, make sure you have some extra tranny oil. and it makes quite a mess too.

I figured Id have to remove the tranny fluid anyway. So I did.. . Damn instructions. lol
But I put the jack under it to hold it up for now because I didnt like it hanging like that.
 

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The Wilwood Brakes Dude
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228 Posts
An easy way to remove the Pressure Plate bolts is to remove the front dust cover and jam a wrench in between the flywheel and the bell housing (while your torqueing on it) and that will keep the whole motor from rotating.

Did you decide on what your gonna do with the rod bearings yet?
 

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Oldie but a Goodie
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If you're doing engine work as well at this time, it is 100x easier to pull the engine and trans together than it is to try to pull the transmission off the back of the engine. Just a thought, seeing as i've done it both ways.
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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Discussion Starter #12
I dont think it is rod knock . I knew the clutch was on its way out and figured the knocking was something that came of the disc and is tapping around.

Which is why I am pulling the tranny right now. ..If it is that. I have to replace the clutch anyway. So might as well start off with the easy work first.

I got the driveshaft off and the covers off and the mounts off and the sensors and all the shit , and removed the clutch fork.
Only thing left to do is unbolt the Pressure plate somehow and drop the tranny.
I am doing this in between other things I have going on in life. So its taking a little longer. A little here and a little there. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend
 

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Oldie but a Goodie
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To get the pressure plate off isn't that difficult. With one hand put a (i want to say 17mm but don't hold me to that) breaker bar or 1/2inch drive ratchet on the Crankshaft pully bolt and with your other hand (I believe the PP bolts are 12mm) use a wrench to break the bolts loose off of the pressure plate. Break one loose, turn the crank to get to the next. This way you can also use the crank to hold backpressure on the rotating assembly so the PP doesnt spin on you when you're trying to break the bolts loose.
 

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Good luck with it, hope all goes well.
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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Discussion Starter #15
OK. so I should be able to get enuff leverage to hold onto the Crank pulley and undo the PP at the same time then?
I am assuming I will have to get on the PP bolts with a ratcheting wrench? Or can I get a socket in there?

Thanks for the heads up guys. I kinda took it as far as I knew and didnt look too much further yet.
 

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The Wilwood Brakes Dude
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228 Posts
The problem with chriscos idea is that if you do this yourself you wont be able to see the 12 mm bolts that hold the PP on to get the wrench on it. Not impossible but not fun either. If you do it my way you can stay right where you can see the 12 mm bolts to put the wrench on it.

The easiest (and this will easily save you a half hour or more) is to have your friend stand at the front of the motor (he dosent even need to get under the car, or get dirty) and put a 19 mm ratchet on the crank and rotate it for you on your command and then hold pressure against you every time you losen each bolt. This take less than 10 minutes, upon install just make sure you have all fasteners installed before you start torqueing any ONE of them down.

but I didnt have enough room for either a ratcheting wrench or a socket. I needed to use the closed end of a conventional boxend wrench, like a snapon, mac, matco or the shiny polished craftsmen wrench. Then I just broke it loose while jaming another wrench in between the flywheel trick, then removed the jammed wrench and advanced the crank to the next bolt so I could see it (kind of a pain by yourself).

Oh well enjoy
 

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RoastBeefCurtain Commando
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Discussion Starter #17
thanks for the heads up. Ill try it myself and see if I have to have someone come over to help./

Shit I guess I gotta get the starter off too? Didnt even look for that yet
 
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