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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a spare motor to rebuild so i can still drive my car until its finished.
Im fabbing up a ffi and going to get some kind of ems, not sure what yet tho.
I would like to remove as much un-needed stuff as possible, but dont know where to start.
I dont want it to run like crap, but want the engine bay less cluttered too.
Im for sure keeping the powersteering and ac. I was looking at the head on my spare motor and there is a hole from the far exhaust port going into the exhaust camcover. has anybody welded that shut?
what can or cant i remove and why or why not.
I dont learn very well from reading the endless posts without pics or red x's and have done many searches, and was wondering if anybody can help me out with some closeup pics and good descriptions to go with them.
thanks,
Ryan
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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im not sure what you mean by the port going into the exhaust cam cover. the only port on the exhaust cam cover is like the port on the intake cam cover; pcv vent line. keep that on there so that your engine doesnt corrode from the inside out due to noxious fumes from blowby "fermenting" into a corrosive vapor.

unless you are talking about the exhaust passage from the #6 runner that leads into the EGR cooler on the REAR of the head. all you have to do is plug taht snice it leads into the #6 exhaust port. you can either make a block off plate from some 1/4" thick aluminum, cutting and drilling, then sealing it w/ high temp RTV, or buying a pre-fabbed block off plate for the EGR system. since youre going w/ an FFI, you wont have to worry about blocking off the EGR port on the stock upper intake plenum.

i would say get an AEM EMS... $1400 for the unit, 3 bar map sensor and GM IAT sensor... dont pay ANY more than $1550 shipped for the box and the 2 sensors.

there isnt alot you can get rid of w/o having to do some special wiring or whatever. you can get rid of the Cruise control, all the vaccum liens for it. then get rid of the turbo pressure sensor thats screwed to the stock 7M injector resistor box next to the driver side strut tower.

good luck w/ the stuffs
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply. yes i meant the hole from the #6 exhaust runner.
do you have any pics of the blockoff plates? the whole hole is rounded and seems like it would be hard to make that work in such a tight spot.
I was thinking of drilling it out and tapping it for a pipe thread plug or just welding it.
I would like to keep my cruise control as well so i take it there isnt a whole lot I can remove then.
thanks,
Ryan
 

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if its a jdm engine you should have gotten block off plates stock.. mine came with them. you can get them from most mkiii parts suppliers. Other things includeour vsv's your pcv system instead of running into a catch can or intak you can put 2 small filters on the top of each cam cover. You can eliminate most of the piping going to the intake from the rest of your ISC just plug it off. You can get rid of the 3000 pipe and just run hard pipes right into the TB which makes it look cleaner. I took out the power steering and ac and love it but most people complain about their arms hurting from no power stearing. that cleans up a lot of room though. Go with electric fans which will clean up even more in the engine bay. Just little things along the way
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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you could get rid of the ISC stuff and cap it off... if you have a pre89 car, there is an IDLE speed adjustment screw that you can use to raise the idle. this will compensate for not having a working ISC. if you have an 89+, youd have to adjust the throttle stop screw. but then youll probably have to recalibrate the TPS. if you hold the throttle plate open further than stock, it could move the TPS out of the IDL range and screw w/ the idle and parking lot drivability.

yeah, you can definitly get rid of the Charcoal cannister and Evap, all the vaccum lines and the TVSV (vaccum thingy on the coolant neck)

on one of my heads, i did use a 9/16" NPT and a pipe plug. you can go to your local parts store and pick up a Spectre intake manifold pipe plug kit. they have 6 plugs in there, 2x 3/8", 2x 1/2" and 2x9/16" IIRC. so basically "Small", "Medium" and "large". i used the "large" one on that port on the head and then a medium one on the upper intake manifold. the port on the exhaust port is TOO large for the Medium, but too small for the Large. you have to auger out the port on the head so you can get the 9/16" tap started. once you have it augered out enough to get the tap started, just run it down as far as you can. then, put some high temp RTV on the threads of the pipe plug and tighten it in as far as Humanly possible... meaning, put the Allen key socket on the 3/8" drive ratchet and put a 4', yes four foot, long cheater bar and tighten the plug in there till it wont go no more. i did mine like that because i was worried the different expansion rates of the aluminum head and the steel plug would cause it to work loose over time... so i wrenched it in there!
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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there aer two places right now that i can get them from; one is an individual the other is a local performance shop.

http://www.southernperformance.com/

the one that i went to and got that price was the US19 address in Clearwater. its a spanish guy w/ an accent. i forget his name, hes new there. but i asked him while i was in there and he told me $1400. when you call him, ask for Import parts and just tell him that one of your friends in the area told you to call.
 
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