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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so this is the background on the car. i had the car running fine for a good while and one day after work i go to start it and the car is dead. i had my mom bring my truck and jump me. i figured something must have drained the battery or i left something on, i turn it on and drive it home. after driving 2 miles the car begins to sputter and dies (basically the battery couldn't keep giving sufficient power to coils there for weak spark and died) i had to get jumped again and this time drove it maybe half a mile and it died in front of my house but atleast i'm home. i jumped the car again and put a multimeter to the battery and could see that the battery was not being charged. i figured ok bad alternator. i took my battery to get charged at autozone and also had the alternator tested. the test surprisingly came back as a good but i was thinking a bench test would give a different result than one on the car with a constant load. either way i got another alternator that came off a known running 1j and put it on. put in my charged battery and monitored the multimeter and same issue the alternator is not charging the battery. belt tension is good.

WTF!!!!

i have checked all fuses to insure nothing is burnt out or anything.

my next guess is the 3 pin connector maybe something fubar there.
S- Sense
L - Lamp
IG - Ignition

anyone know if i am test the connector for flaws or issues, how should these be tested? in other words, at each terminal what kind of readings am i looking for?

i just need to figure this out. IF you have any other Ideas on what it might be or other methods to get it figured out, it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Have you checked the 5amp battery fuse in your driver's kick panel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i just double checked the fuse in the kick panel, i looked at the diagram on the lid and saw no 5amp fuse for a battery but still looked at all the fuses all looked good.
 

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there is a 100 amp fuse for the battery, Look at it, you have to take the fuse box apart to remove it....
if your alt is bad, just replace it with a 93 lexus SC300, thru bolt on, more AMPS...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
i looked at the fuse box and realized where the 100 amp fuse is suppose to be it has a 6 guage wire (basically a jumper wire) in it's place, it looks intact but i'm gonna replace it with an actual fuse in there off my spare car. the thing is it's not a true bolt on as they have the round plug and mine doesn't, it has the rectangular/ oval connector. i would go buy another alternator as i know the alternator on the car right now is off a running car.
 

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I replaced my 1jz with a SC300, True plug & play, I wonder what connector you have????
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i'll take a pic and post it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
here's the plug i have
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
also things i have also done replaced battery terminal, found a thick guaged wire (that is suppose to be grounded to the block but was not) and bolted it to the block, put in a 100 amp fuse and still not charging



here's a quick pic of my current set up.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
anyone else have any ideas? again does anyone know how to test the 3 pin connector at the alternator, like what to look for in the readings? i love to drive it again without worrying about being stranded...
 

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sounds silly, but try a different battery. I find it hard to believe that anything else can be wrong when it WAS running right. Battery testers are not always correct AND battery gets over looked way to often. Plus it'll take like 10-15 min tops to put someone else's battery in there to double check.
 

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on another note, i remember the only thing my 1j gave me issues with was frying the positive wire going to the alternator. I'm sure you checked it already as you had to take it off the alternator, but just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well as far as trying other batteries i technically have put 3 different batteries in a months span. 1st was when i left the lights on the car and it killed the battery luckily i had warranty got a new. then a couple weeks later the alternator stops charging and ran into the incident in th OP and i to test the alternator and battery but battery was nearly dead from being drained soo many times i put it on a charger at autozone and while charging i take off the charger and have them bench test alternator and it passes and turns out battery was sooo effed i had to go through warranty again and now i'm on the new new battery and still have the same issues. so i'm doubting battery. positive wire to alt is perfect no frays and also tested it for continuity and all checked out fine.

soo another update. just drove to autozone and had them retest with the alternator on the car again and the test was still a negative on the charging but was told it was a failed voltage regulator. this is a start but the alternator is off a good running motor... another bad alternator?
 

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Just hook the alternator directly to the battery, if it still does not charge then I dont know what else you can do.
 

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so this is the background on the car. i had the car running fine for a good while and one day after work i go to start it and the car is dead. i had my mom bring my truck and jump me. i figured something must have drained the battery or i left something on, i turn it on and drive it home. after driving 2 miles the car begins to sputter and dies (basically the battery couldn't keep giving sufficient power to coils there for weak spark and died) i had to get jumped again and this time drove it maybe half a mile and it died in front of my house but atleast i'm home. i jumped the car again and put a multimeter to the battery and could see that the battery was not being charged. i figured ok bad alternator. i took my battery to get charged at autozone and also had the alternator tested. the test surprisingly came back as a good but i was thinking a bench test would give a different result than one on the car with a constant load. either way i got another alternator that came off a known running 1j and put it on. put in my charged battery and monitored the multimeter and same issue the alternator is not charging the battery. belt tension is good.

WTF!!!!

i have checked all fuses to insure nothing is burnt out or anything.

my next guess is the 3 pin connector maybe something fubar there.
S- Sense
L - Lamp
IG - Ignition

anyone know if i am test the connector for flaws or issues, how should these be tested? in other words, at each terminal what kind of readings am i looking for?

i just need to figure this out. IF you have any other Ideas on what it might be or other methods to it figured out, it would be greatly appreciated.
Ignition- you should get 12volts with key on engine off measuring from chassis ground to the plug, should read no voltage key off.

Lamp- I believe this provides the ground to the battery light if the alternator is not charging, maybe even ground for lamp for the first few seconds of "light bulb check" in the instrument cluster. (does that bulb come on when you first turn key to acc/on position-no crank?)

Sense- This is a 12volt reference source for the internal regulator in the alternator. You should always have 12volts on this terminal assuming the battery is hooked up and provided the 12.8 volts unloaded. Again measure from chassis ground to terminal in wiring plug.

Also with engine off measure voltage from chassis ground to the main positive terminal on the alternator-you should have near the same voltage you would read across your positive and negative of your battery. If not there is either high resistance in the alternator to battery positive wire or battery negative to the chassis ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
got the alternator rebuilt and the guy said it looked in great shape and no issues with the voltage regulator if anything the brushes could be changed but didn't look bad. ran me $25. i get home with the alternator put it on and still not charging. then look to the connector again... the wires at the connector look good so i start cutting away at the loom to follow the wires and about 1.5ft from the connector there was a break in IG wire where it was previously soldered together. re soldered it and all of a sudden the alt is now charging!!!!

i'm soo happy its fixed but upset it took me soo long. either way thanks to everyone for the thoughts and suggestions!
 
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