why don't you just use steel braided lines?

 

why don't you just use steel braided lines?

more expensive. probably not as reliable and loose pressure.

 

You already have a hard line running from the tank to the front of the car, it terminates just at the bottom of the firewall, so I guess I don't understand what you're looking to accomplish. It's rubber between this hardline and the hardline on the engine block. Gotta have some flex line in there between the chassis and block.

 

You already have a hard line running from the tank to the front of the car, it terminates just at the bottom of the firewall, so I guess I don't understand what you're looking to accomplish. It's rubber between this hardline and the hardline on the engine block. Gotta have some flex line in there between the chassis and block.

i know, i just want to replace it, coz i smell gas inside and can't find where it's evaporating from, so i decided to replace the line and replace the rubber part with a braided one and rebuild injectors.

 

i highly, highly doubt there is anything wrong with your feed line. Check the canister in the engine bay and check the overflow tube coming off the tank in the rear, it hangs down.
Sounds like a leak at the rail or something but it def is not the line. Check all the fittings and filter also..
If you do replace it use -6 braided
1. It is much easier to install.
2. It will cost you about $150 total with fittings
3. It will NOT lose pressure as 95% of all high HP cars use braided
4. You dont have to get a bender and do all the bends yourself.
Make sure if you do replace the line just get the proper ps fitting that goes right into the rail and bypass all that dampening shit from the factory.
HTH
Dean

 

i highly, highly doubt there is anything wrong with your feed line. Check the canister in the engine bay and check the overflow tube coming off the tank in the rear, it hangs down.
Sounds like a leak at the rail or something but it def is not the line. Check all the fittings and filter also..
If you do replace it use -6 braided
1. It is much easier to install.
2. It will cost you about $150 total with fittings
3. It will NOT lose pressure as 95% of all high HP cars use braided
4. You dont have to get a bender and do all the bends yourself.
Make sure if you do replace the line just get the proper ps fitting that goes right into the rail and bypass all that dampening shit from the factory.
HTH
Dean

thanks for the info, the thing is, they're going to charge me $150 for injectors (25 a piece), so i do not have another $150 to go on braided line (hopefully i'll not spend nearly as much on the hard one, of course it will be more difficult, but interesting IMO).
by "shit from the factory" you mean FPD. - where is it and what does it look like? I'll try to look it up in the TSRM.
my canister might be clogged because after i sank my car i never checked if there was any water in it .
I'm going to remove canister anyways and get a vented tank cap.

 

I replaced my stock hardline with 1/2" stainless steel hardline. You can get aluminum hardline and you are right, it will be easier to bend. Stainless is not that hard either. I flared the ends of the line and used AN sleeve and nut fittings.

first pic looks beautiful. that's exactly what i want. could you give me more info on what fittings will i need to get, tools, also if you can tell me where did you get the line itself, because i went to the parts store and all they have is a 3 ft straight pieces. did you have any problems that I need to be aware of? you say that bending of the stainless steel is not that hard, but i read that with some benders it would be a nightmare. I've never used one those benders, the only one i've used was a big one for water pipes at home, very small stuff I used something round and a hammer), i don't think it would be a good idea for fuel line bending.

 

sorry about bumping it but i really need the info because i'm going to do this on the weekend.

 

also if anyone knows what is the optional thinkness of the wall. I found this website and that what they offer.

http://www.airpartsinc.com/steeltube.htm

 

FYI,
If you wish to replace with an hardline, then a replaceable OE unit (from filter to firewall) is about $30 last time I checked with Mr. Watson. Trouble is shipping a unit as delicate and cumbersome. Maybe you can source a new one from your local Toyo parts center at relatively negligible cost.

HTH,
Howard.
527whp
www.NESupras.org/themeet/

 

FYI,
If you wish to replace with an hardline, then a replaceable OE unit (from filter to firewall) is about $30 last time I checked with Mr. Watson. Trouble is shipping a unit as delicate and cumbersome. Maybe you can source a new one from your local Toyo parts center at relatively negligible cost.

HTH,
Howard.
527whp
www.NESupras.org/themeet/

i'll check on that.
i wonder if it is possible to extend the stock hard line to use less rubber hoses?

 

terpinus - Seriously, like Dean stated, 99% sure you will be wasting time and money changing the hardline, those things don't break and just start leaking. I would suggest checking the canister first. Here's a link: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ec/EC_06.html

If this fails, next I would check hose connections and injectors. Just trying to save you a dime. Good Luck

 

terpinus - Seriously, like Dean stated, 99% sure you will be wasting time and money changing the hardline, those things don't break and just start leaking. I would suggest checking the canister first. Here's a link: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ec/EC_06.html

If this fails, next I would check hose connections and injectors. Just trying to save you a dime. Good Luck

may be i'm jumping to a conclusions after all the stories of supes burning down). what would you recommend replacing the rubber hoses with? just same rubber or braided?
I'll check my canister.
about checking injectors - can you turn the engine over with them out so i can see how good do they spray?
thanks,
mikhail

 

No, on the injectors I was referring to checking for leaks around the fuel rail. If the injectors aren't firing properly, you will experience a loss in performance. They have services for cleaning fuel injectors, or you can buy a used set on the board here for cheap. If you turn on the key, it should power up the fuel pump and you should then have a pressurized system to check for leaks. I wouldn't start changing lines that don't have leaks, you'll more than likely just create new ones. I still think unless you find a leak, it's a problem with your fuel vapor emmisions system.