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Do you still get power to the accessories(like the lights)?
Or if you do, do the instrument lights that are on just before cranking, all go out when you move the key to the 'start' position? If so, check the condition of the battery cables, as I suggested before.

 

[Junked87Turbo]

No it used to do that, all go out before cranking, but now theres nothing. I checked all the cables and got new terminals and connectors.

 

[Junked87Turbo]

Thanks for everyones help but I need to get this car running before i leave for automotive school in January or else I have to drive an automatic talon.

 

[Guest]

You really need a voltmeter. You can pick one up at just about any auto or hardware store for less than 15 bucks.

With the voltmeter, measure the voltages at various locations. It will show you where there is a break in the lines.

Without the voltmeter, you're really running blind, which makes troubleshooting a game of chance.

 

[p5150]

you probably blew your main fuse/ another fuse. Check em all!

 

[p5150]

Thanks for everyones help but I need to get this car running before i leave for automotive school in January ......

Hate to laugh man, but it seems apparent that you need to go to school.:whip:

 

[Junked87Turbo]

I know dude i cant wait

 

[Guest]

JohnBunneIl

Any battery be it gell or liquid will plate up.

In the old days of lead acid cells you used to be able to take a cell apart and scrape the plates.

Ordanary batteries dont like being discharged too deeply, if they are they get buckled plates, they are designed for short heavy loads and float charging.

Special leisure batteries are designed for deep discharge, but are only good for low current loads.

 

[wolf1991]

90% of these problems you could solve on your own, go buy a voltmeter like I said earlier and Shawn echoed. Its very simple.

Load testing is a very usefull way of testing the cold cranking amps that the battery can put out. But, the only way of test the battery to the fullest, i.e. every individual cell, is with a hydrometer, no if,ands, or buts. Matter of fact, you can have a battery with a "dead" cell and still
test good on a load tester. I've seen it a hundred times. Thats why the "professionals" hydrometer check batteries first, then complete a 12-24 hr charge, allow it to stabilize, and then load test it for cold cranking amps.

Does the quality of batteries make a difference? Of coarse, plate design makes a huge difference. And the quality of the paste used on the plate, determmines how effectively it can complete the chemical reaction that produces voltage. Exide, the same battery that Junked is using, is among the worst batteries on the market. Its a huge company, that spends millions on marketing, but their batteries hardly every put out the cold cranking amps advertised. Remeber that when you buy batteries they can advertise cold cranking amps, cranking amps, and hot cranking amps. These different ratings make a huge difference in power output. Sorry, i'll get out my soapbox now.

Jeremy