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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Fabricating and welding a bracket to hold my Throttle Cable. Never mind the Nissan logo haha (Q45 TB).
Obviously, the cable is not installed yet....



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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Fabricated a gauge cluster plate that goes where the center vents are. Above the climate control unit. Here, I'm using expanding foam which is highly workable to the shape I want.

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Curing. Since it was < 50 degrees here, I had to put the piece in a box padded with aluminum foil and turn the heater on it. Otherwise the epoxy wouldn't harden.

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Still need to cut the holes for the gauges and polish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
In my effort to track down a noise problem in my Crank/cam sensor signal, I sleeved the cam/ crank/ knock sensor cables in a full drain sleeve.

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Meanwhile, my brakes are getting a major upgrade...

Picked up these 6 piston calipers and 14.2" rotors...

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Brembo calipers vs LS400 calipers



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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Just Finished a preliminary solid model which I'll use to calibrate my CFD model.

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
A quick preliminary CFD run (was not quick at all). Working with surfaces in CFD is a pain in the butt... Got a Cd of .31 which is close to the published figure.

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I absolutely love your updates, especially the CFD modeling! What aero changes are you planning to make? And what Brembo brake kit is that?
 
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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
I absolutely love your updates, especially the CFD modeling! What aero changes are you planning to make? And what Brembo brake kit is that?
Hey I appreciate the kind words.
I started my engineering career as a CFD engineer, so I'm definitely planning on leveraging that. My plans include a flat floor at least, but I think I'm going for full-blown tunnels and diffuser. I also want to address the wheels and cooling. Eventually, I plan on doing some optimization to a 2-element rear wing, which i have to be disciplined and not go too crazy with.
The brakes parts are not a part of a kit. I'm basically putting together the brake system. The 6-pistons calipers came from a Porsche (cayenne or caymen... I don't remember), the rotors are ISF rotors. I'm in the process of designing (and analyzing) the brackets now.

EDIT: The calipers are from 2010 Cayenne.
 
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Meanwhile, my brakes are getting a major upgrade...

Picked up these 6 piston calipers and 14.2" rotors...

View attachment 257930


Brembo calipers vs LS400 calipers



View attachment 257931
Hey I appreciate the kind words.
I started my engineering career as a CFD engineer, so I'm definitely planning on leveraging that. My plans include a flat floor at least, but I think I'm going for full-blown tunnels and diffuser. I also want to address the wheels and cooling. Eventually, I plan on doing some optimization to a 2-element rear wing, which i have to be disciplined and not go too crazy with.
The brakes parts are not a part of a kit. I'm basically putting together the brake system. The 6-pistons calipers came from a Porsche (cayenne or caymen... I don't remember), the rotors are ISF rotors. I'm in the process of designing (and analyzing) the brackets now.

EDIT: The calipers are from 2010 Cayenne.



I ran a quick FEA on a preliminary caliper bracket. Low stress values there, even with stress concentrations. I initially planned to just make it out of mild steel, but I found a good deal on some annealed 4340 so I'm going to use that instead.




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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Made the caliper bracket out of pvc to test-fit. I was satisfied with the fit with a few improvements. Then, I started making the caliper bracket out of 4340... this proved to be a pain to cut into , specially when all I got is an angle grinder and Harbor Freight mini milling machine.
I broke the gear on the milling machine so I'm waiting for parts haha
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16 mm drill bit for caliper holes
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Workin hard! Nice build man, keep it up.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
For all the CFD lovers.... it's CFD Tuesday lol

Anywho... I played with different things to see their effect on drag and lift of the car. First I added the wheels I actually have (TE37's and mounted tires). I then added a tire deflector, you know, these plastic things you see hanging in front of the tires of most cars nowadays. I also added a flat floor all the way to a conservative diffuser in the rear. Overall drag coefficient decreased to .28 (baseline/stock was .31). Lift decreased to approximately 0 ( baseline was around 100 pounds).


The front tires are still kicking the flow out. The rear wheel definitely does sticking out that much lol

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Viewing from beneath, the diffuser ain't much. basic curve-up with two walls on the side. Turbulence is definitely leaking from the rear-wheel area. Maybe strakes can help with that.


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Wake from behind the car...
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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Made the caliper bracket out of pvc to test-fit. I was satisfied with the fit with a few improvements. Then, I started making the caliper bracket out of 4340... this proved to be a pain to cut into , specially when all I got is an angle grinder and Harbor Freight mini milling machine.
I broke the gear on the milling machine so I'm waiting for parts haha
View attachment 258725
16 mm drill bit for caliper holes
View attachment 258726


Finally fixed my mini milling maching. Here's the gear I had to replace... freaking made out of plastic

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Will resume making the caliper bracket tomorrow.

I needed to weld a flex section on my down pipe. I had my Lincoln mig welder stolen, and I only had the tig welder and the Harbor Freight flux welder. The pipes weren't a great fit so the tig was out of the question so I had to use the flux core. Welds were horrible and I decided to modify the welder :cool: The Harbor Freight welder is an AC welder, which is NOT great for flux core welding (you want DC). So I started converting the welder to a DC welder and making other modifications hahaha.

Here's the piece of junk:


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A look inside...

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Pretty simple...



The rectifier and heat sink I lined up for my purpose

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Here's the rectifier/heat sink/ capacitor installed

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Then I installed a removable welding cable (it was hard-wired before).
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In the process I changed the ground clamp. It was some wimpy 8 gauge.I installed a 4 gauge. What a difference!
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I also upgraded the clamp from the wimpy one to the silver looking one.

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Here's the finished clamp
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I will try welding with it tomorrow and see the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
IT IS CFD TUESDAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY :)
We had a bit of a discussion on clublexus on best fender venting techniques and how it does when combined with other aero mods. I combined the vents with tire shields. Nothing optimal but just wanted to see the effects from both. The louvres weren't aggressive enough as they were only 1/4 high. Also it seems that louvres aligned along the fender are not as effective. They need to be aligned with the flow as you can see below.

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Also, the flow from the fenders creeps along the car all the way down to rear wheel

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Just for giggles... The car is at 71 pounds of negative lift (downforce)
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I ran a quick FEA on a preliminary caliper bracket. Low stress values there, even with stress concentrations. I initially planned to just make it out of mild steel, but I found a good deal on some annealed 4340 so I'm going to use that instead.




View attachment 258421


Finished roughing the caliper bracket. I gotta clean it up and add fillets in the pockets. The OEM knuckle actually has a .010" step in it so I opted to machine that in (kinda bothers me lol)

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To position/center the caliper relative to the rotor, there's only a 0.250" gap between the caliper mounts and the steering knuckle mounts. This's why the pockets are machined into the 1/2" 4340 plate.

the Caliper side

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
The calipers are in need of some TLC


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Pulled the hardware off

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Restored the color to red. I'm not a big fan of the color :( Let me know if you have any suggestions for a caliper on a bronze TE37 and a black car.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
The calipers are in need of some TLC


View attachment 259302

Pulled the hardware off

View attachment 259303


Restored the color to red. I'm not a big fan of the color :( Let me know if you have any suggestions for a caliper on a bronze TE37 and a black car.

View attachment 259304

Finally finished and installed the caliper. These things are massive... Below is the LS400 caliper vs the Brembo caliper.
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Fit inside the 18's... Let me know if you have any color suggestion for this combo..

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
UPDATE:
As it stands...


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I encountered a very strange problem while adapting the left Caliper to the Driver's side knuckle assembly. For some reason, the rotor would not clear the tie rod!!! I figured I screwed something up so I went through everything to verify my work. But, really, nothing I did should affect how the rotor is sitting relative to the tie rod. Especially when the right side fits fine.

The bearing had a tiny bit of play (almost immeasurable), so I went ahead and bought a new toy for a valid excuse :)


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And went to town...Changed the bearing, put everything back together... there goes nothing... same interference between the rotor and Tie Rod
Tie Rod was also busted, I changed that. No change.

Back to square one, pressed the hub back out and made 2 0.190" spacers like this one


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Put the spacers on the hub before the bearing then pressed it into the knuckle. Crap... I realized 2 spacers is too much since I would have to thin out the Caliper bracket by that much....
Pressed the hub back out and kept one spacer only..
Put everything back together and I only clear the Tie Rod by 0.068" ! The right side cleared by 0.129" without any spacers...

Below you see the right side (0.129" clearance). Although it's not enough, it was ok for now...
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Now, here's the problematic side (0.068" clearance)
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So my conclusion is that there is a 0.250" difference between the right and left Knuckle!!!!!! I did not see this coming or expect, frankly from Toyota... Any body experienced this???...
I was trying to avoid making suspension mods/geometry for the time being... Now I have to, at least, address the tie rods. OH WELL... moving on... I'm thinking of bolting a tab to where the Tie rod goes on the knuckle. Have the tab extend inward and drill a tapered hole in it for the tie rod to go into... or have a rod end setup bolted to the tab... Any thoughts on custom setups that push the tie rod away from the rotor??
 

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