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Need some advice

I pulled my pistons out today and i'm almost down to the bare block. It turns out that I spun 2 bearings, one on the second and one on the fourth connecting rod. These rods are black because i assumed they burned oil on themselves due to the friction. Also i suspect my crank to be somewhat warped, it is easy to turn at some points but then tightens up at others.

I plan on just doing a reliable stock rebuild, after my build is done I dont dont plan on doing any crazy numbers, just a quick reliable car i can enjoy for a while. I will have CT-26 with 57 trim, BIC downpipe, cosmetic hg, nothing too serious.

Whats the next step? What are my best options? Would I be better off buying used connecting rods and crank? Should i take it to a machine shop and see if they can salvage my rods? I'm new to being this deep in the engine... why is drjonez never on AIM when you need him? If anyone is in Detroit downriver area whats a good engine machine shop?
 

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SUPRAF0RUMS TROLL
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yea.... just buy a jdm engine lol... reliable stock engines that you can just rip off the head with and pop on a new HG
 

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BrokenSupra said:
yea.... just buy a jdm engine lol... reliable stock engines that you can just rip off the head with and pop on a new HG
ya thats a good idea... go with an engine thats been sitting on a shelf in the rain for the past 6 to 10 years. Before that being abused to who knows what extent...

i"m sure someone can give you better advice than to scrap the entire engine and buy a used (maybe crappier) engine to repair only one defect.
 

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the colours you see are burned metal. when metal turns black it has been to its second hotest point, after black is silver. this is how hot your crank got while under load from the turned bearing..lol mine was blue, black, and silver. lol.
 

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Stock Boost SUX
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Find a good machine shop and take the rods and crank to them to check it out. I THOUGHT my crank was ok, turns out it was bent. My rods were ok. A good machine shopshould be able to help you rebuild it pretty quickly, especially if the rods are ok. They will mic the crank, tell you wha size bearings you need and will resize the rods of necessary. Goodluck.
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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Alllll the kids who say run a JDM block are sadly misinformed.

You need to totally disassemble everything. Mark the bearings and what journal they are out of, mark the pistons for which one came out of which hole, and keep each rod bearing with its rod. This way, the shop knows which bearing was with which rod and with which journal. Show and tell them what happened. Marking everything will let them closer inspect the suspect areas.

They may tell you to get 2 new rods. They may tell you to get a new crank as well. Let them determine that. They'll look at it, and let you know of your options.

Then rebuild it with new toyota parts and drive it for 100k miles.
 

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if the rods have discoloured they are scrapmetal and I wouldnt use them for much more than the wall of shame. In the rod knock thread I did a write up of some basic things to consider when bilding/rebuilding an engine.
 

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Stock Boost SUX
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Jus make sure....


 

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Sawblades Rock!!!
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aljordan said:
Alllll the kids who say run a JDM block are sadly misinformed.

I always heard from people that the jdm engines were stronger. I'm not saying that your wrong, but alot can go wrong with any rebuild. Like what if you dont trust your local machine shops to do a good enough job. Or what if most of the valves in your head are damaged in some way, or the head is warped. Thats alot more money to sink into it right there. It's no fun to sink $2000+ into your engine just to have rod knock again cause it was assembled wrong, and by this time you've voided your warranty by adding illeagal mods. Some people buy jdm's because they dont wanna deal with all that hassle. This way, they have an extra set of parts too :)
Personally, I'm gonna buy one of those Rabbid Chimp longblocks from horsepowerfreaks.com Because they will warranty it for one year no matter what happens. And they put a MHG on it
 

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been too many people getting JDM engines that after being installed had rod knock... and they could be just as wasted as his engine...
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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aljordan said:
Alllll the kids who say run a JDM block are sadly misinformed.

You need to totally disassemble everything. Mark the bearings and what journal they are out of, mark the pistons for which one came out of which hole, and keep each rod bearing with its rod. This way, the shop knows which bearing was with which rod and with which journal. Show and tell them what happened. Marking everything will let them closer inspect the suspect areas.

They may tell you to get 2 new rods. They may tell you to get a new crank as well. Let them determine that. They'll look at it, and let you know of your options.

Then rebuild it with new toyota parts and drive it for 100k miles.

Personally I would get all the rods recut to spec get that crank cut on the tight side for clearances, and you can take the block so the machinist can measure the block, and crank to make sure he cuts the crank to proper clearances. Put in new mains, and rod bearings, and get new rings and lightly hone the block. This is a budgeted repair. Read my thread on rod knock.


http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278963
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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TiWo2.0 said:
I always heard from people that the jdm engines were stronger. I'm not saying that your wrong, but alot can go wrong with any rebuild. Like what if you dont trust your local machine shops to do a good enough job. Or what if most of the valves in your head are damaged in some way, or the head is warped. Thats alot more money to sink into it right there. It's no fun to sink $2000+ into your engine just to have rod knock again cause it was assembled wrong, and by this time you've voided your warranty by adding illeagal mods. Some people buy jdm's because they dont wanna deal with all that hassle. This way, they have an extra set of parts too :)
Personally, I'm gonna buy one of those Rabbid Chimp longblocks from horsepowerfreaks.com Because they will warranty it for one year no matter what happens. And they put a MHG on it

Stronger??? It's the ****SAME**** motor. There are ZERO difference between the jdm and usdm long blocks. Toyota didn't engineer a different set of pistons, rods, crank, head, ect for a different country.

I guess if you can't find a machine shop you trust, then you need to keep searching. I really find it hard to beleive that you can't find a competent machine shop in Michigan. Doctor Jones is from Michigan, he seems to have a decent shop to do his machine work. Contact him to find out what shop he uses.

If the valves are suspect, then disassembly and checking is required. Who's to say that a JDM motor doesn't share the same problem?

I've said this a few times.. and I bet I'll say it many more..

There's NEVER time/money to do it right, but there's ALWAYS time/money to do it again.

$2k is a LOT of cash to drop into a used motor. They put new seals into it, a new timing belt, and a MHG with ARP studs and inspect each crank and rod bearing. If you're going to look at the bearings, you might as well replace them. My guess is they machine the head, and slap on a MHG. That's not proper MHG machine work. You must do the block as well. I don't know a shop who would do a block with the pistons still in the bores. Only way they could do it properly would be to lap it, and doing so has the possibility of introducing grit into the oil passages.
 
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