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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Thanks Tanya!:D

I am going to try and get some pis during the day of the Supra and the Vette (both separate and tegether) in the next few days, so I can make my web page worth visiting!:smile:

Of course using this camera makes me want to go out and get one!
 
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Wiked! Thanx Square! :)

I did a bit of searching and I did see that wire coming out from under the Exhaust...I figured that might have something to do with the O2 sensor as you mentioned...guess my hunch was correct. ;)

I had a look at where the timing marks before...I didn't realize the Harmonic balancer is in there...which part is it?

Also, with those timing marks, theres no way to view with teh naked eye if your timing is right hey...the pulley that the belt are on, is that what you adjust to correct the timing? Obviously with a timing light...but I'd rather know how to do it myself rather than get the mechanic to do it...since it's a 5 min job...

One more thing, can you take a photo of your fuel cap...in particular the inside of it...thanx again for taking the time to take the photo's...photo's make things much clearer! :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Hey Nights,

I will get a photo of my fuel cap. I believe that it is original. I have yet to take my "major photo shoot" of my cars so I will do it then.

I believe that the harmonic balancer is either attached to or sits under the flywheel pully. I do not know exactly which it is, but someone else here probably does.

As for setting your timing, you adjust the timing by turning your distributor. The reason you need a timing light is not because you can't see the timing marks without the timing light, but because you see too much of the timing marks without it. The timing light has 3 wires coming off of it. 2 wires give it power from the battery (+ & -) and the 3rd wire hooks around the #1 spark plug wire. You short a connector under the hood, which tells the computer you are trying to set the timing, and you start the motor. You then point the light (which is shaped like a pistol) at the timing marks, and pull the trigger. The timing light senses when the #1 spark plug is firing and turns the light on for a fraction of a second. It looks like a strobe light, and since it is only providing light when the #1 cylinder is firing, you only see the timing mark and the degree indicator when the #1 cylinder is firing. Then (provided you have painted you timing mark on the crankshaft pully) you turn the distributor and watch as the indicator notch moves in regard to the timing marks you saw in my photo. Once you have set it where you want it, you tighten the distributor bolt (you have to loosen it before you start). and you disconnect the timing light, and remove the shorting connector.

I will see if I can get a photo of the timing mark on the crank pully as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Ahhh Wiked! :)

Thanx for explaining that for me. I see on the side of the Distributor there is a bolt, but it's bolted onto a slider type thing, like you can move from left to right...I guess that's where you adjust it?

Wish I could take a photo but I don't have a camera... :(

I noticed also, while staring at all the belts there at the front of the engine, one of them is on a slight angle as it comes off the pulley...hmm, I wonder if that's affecting the car in any way...it's not a big angle, you can see it if you stare...so it's not obvious really...but it means the belt isn't perfecting straight agains't the pulley...how would I fix this do you think...?

Not sure what this particular belt does...and the belt arrangement in the 5M-E is slightly different to the 5M-GE's...hmm...

EDIT: oh yeah, as I was changing the hoses on that EGR Vacuum Modulator one of the hoses, the one that connects it to the EGR valve (the metal one) had a screw inside...It was in there to block whatever passes through that hose...the handy work of the previous owner...why would they block this hose off?

Needless to say I took the old hose out along with the screw inside it and put a new hose in it's place that isn't blocked...I'll see what happens... :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Hi Nights,

If you distributor is like mine it should look something like this:



You are correct in assuming that you rotate it in the slot to adjust the timing.

As for the belt being slightly off angle. That can cause premature bearing wear and can also chew through belts as well. But it you haven't had trouble with it causing these symptoms, then I wouldn't worry too much.

I should have my pics done in the next day or 2, and I will link them up when I get them done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Hey Nights,
I swaped out the distributor pic I had with a better one. I forget to get the gas cap photo, but I haven't finished taking pictures yet, so I will get it done.

I did remember to get a decent shot of the timing notch in the crankshaft pully. It took a few tries (I took it from under the car), but I think it came out pretty well:



The notch is on both sides of the pully. You can see the notch in the far side right next to the oil pan bolt.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Wiked

Yes, they have helped me. :)

The distributor cap is in a different layout on the 5M-E's...but I think I know where to adjust it anyway...it's fairly easy to get to.

Your gas gap is identical to mine...so in that respect, maybe my gas cap isn't too bad...I read somewhere that a faulty gas cap can cause a rough idle...I don't know why though...but since mine looks like yours I wont worry about it or change it I think...

I'm just trying to work you the timing pulley photo you took...there is a line on it, engraved...is that supposed to be there?

Thanx heaps Square for taking the time to take these photo's and helping me out... :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Hey nights,

Yeah, the notch in the timing pully is the timing mark. It shows you where Top Dead Center (TDC) is. I took a white grease pencil and marked the notch on both sides of the pully (there is a notch on the timing cover side as well as the radiator side) to make it stand out more when I set the timing. When the timing light flashes, you see this white mark next to the degree indicator telling you where the timing is (5 degrees BTDC, 14 degrees BTDC, etc). As you turn the distributor, you will se this white mark move and that is how you set the timing.

If I am leading you down the path to confusion or if you have any more questions please let me know.
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Square said:
I believe that the harmonic balancer is either attached to or sits under the flywheel pully. I do not know exactly which it is, but someone else here probably does.
I went through reading this thread because my 85 has an extremely "odd" idle. And came across the statement a few times about the harmonic balancer being attached to or under the flywheel pully. I just have to note that the flywheel is on the backside of the engine. It engages with the starter to start your engine. The torque converter (on an automatic) or the clutch assembly (on a manual shift) are bolted to the flywheel. The harmonic balancer is the same as the crank pully.

My crank pully has a chip in it, about the same as Tonya's and it idled just fine until I resealed the engine....It was smooth and consistant. After resealing the engine (replaced all the engine related gaskets, plugs, cap and rotor, fuel filter, and some of the vacuum hoses) and it surges between 500 and 2000 rpms...
 
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Your surging sounds like a bad sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere.

I ment to say crankshaft pully, sorry about that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I'm counting on it being a bad O2 sensor...I may have accidentally gotten high temp spray paint on it when painting my exhaust manifold. It could be a vacuum leak...we all know how 20 year old rubber is. I'm going to check the engine codes tonight and see what they say.

I knew you meant the crankshaft pulley, but just kind of wanted to make sure. :cool:
 
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
OK, I have my engine in better time, the idle is still surges, but smoother. The codes were 41 and 43 i think. After getting the engine in better time (long story) I cleared the codes and haven't gotten a new one yet. I haven't replaced the vacuum lines yet, but noticed my coolant temp gauge doesn't register...so now I need to check that out. :mad:
 
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Do you have the shop manual to read the codes and test the sensors? If you don't, I do have one for my 83' I will be happy to look things up for you if it will help you out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
i'm not sure if this has been covered or not(as there are quite a few posts and i cant remember whats been suggested or not)
but try changning spark plugs...these get a nice coat on them after a while and the spark gets quite weak and can cause a "rough" idle(which is really just not firing properly on all cylinders)

you could also look at the intake hoses, as somtimes wierd gunky stuff builds up in there and can also effect idle


also nights if you're not already a member you should join up to toymods(great australian toyota mod forum...they even have a few regular perth members!!)
anyways they're also really good for info!!

link is www.toymods.org.au
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
oh and as a bit of an off chance try resetting your ECU

never know...could help that little bit more
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Square said:
Do you have the shop manual to read the codes and test the sensors? If you don't, I do have one for my 83' I will be happy to look things up for you if it will help you out.
Thanks for the offer, but I have a manual. Codes were for 43 start signal and the 41 was the crank sensor. If I remember correctly.
 

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Sooooo... How did that rough idle issue go...? About to embark on a similar exploration, but I've got a great head start. Nice info guys (whoever is still out there)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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