Supra Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here is the problem...

i have an rps stage 3 clutch i just put in a friends car.

I replaced all snap rings, bearings, etc. The flywheel was in very good shape also. The disk isnt backwards, i know how a car like that would act...

when i went to drive the car, it would not let me go into gear, specifically 1st and reverse. the car would go in the other gears but with a FIGHT.

after this i adjusted the pedal, this didnt help either...

I was told a possible fix would be the master/slave cylinders. I called RSP but they are obviously closed today.

Any ideas as to how to fix the problem??

Also, does anyone know if the RPS Stage 3 disk will work with a stock pressure plate? I have a feeling the PP is what is screwed up, maybe throwing a stock one in there will fix the problem.

Please any help at all would be much apprecitated

· Old School
4,461 Posts
You're positive the disc is in the right way?

You're sure you have the cone-shaped washer on in the correct direction?

If the adjustment rod won't cure it, get under the car, remove one of the inspection plates and watch what happens when someone works the clutch pedal. You might be able to see where the problem is if it's lack of travel in the master/slave.

I have heard of some of the discs being too thick (the pad material).

· Unstable
271 Posts
If the disc material is too thick, you can start by using shims on the pressure plate, though I do not recommend it. To me, it sounds like hydroulics. If you did not completely remove the slave during the install (lines, etc) then I am guessing that you did not bleed the system. In this case, it is sometimes possible for the piston in the slave cylinder to move out quite a bit and inhale some air. I would try rebleeding the hydroulic system. If the problem still exsists, the seals in either the master or slave could be shot. The increased load on the components can destroy worn seals in no time.

Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i reblead the system, still wouldnt go into gear.

after playing around with it, i was able to get the car to drive. in order to get the car into 1st i had to rev it up to 1.8-2.0k and then it will let you go into first. after that all teh gears work perfectly while driving...

on the other hand reverse still will not work, i have to shut the car off... put it in reverse and start the car again. then it works.

both cylinders are going to be replaced, alreayd on order from curt..

· Inline for the win
6,405 Posts
When you installed the rings on the throwout bearing, did you make sure the cone washer was going the right direction? If it is going the wrong direction, assembley will not perfom correctly.

I did it, and it will only allow the pressure plate to partially release. If you have the car on all four jackstands, start it up and see if when you have it in first (with clutch fully depressed) that the rear wheels are NOT MOVING. While the car is in the air you will be able to shift gears and such, but once its on the ground it will not move without and abundance of force. If the wheels are rotating, the pressure plate is not being fully released from the assembly. I just put another RPS clutch in my friends 94TT and had no problems.

Check the washers. But you know you have to pull it back out.

I have it down to under 45 mins to pull a tranny (and thats taking my time).

DP (The clutch man in OHIO).

Discussion Starter · #8 ·

im pretty sure the washers/etc were put in correctly. Ive done many many clutch jobs before. This is the first time ive experienced this problem.

if the clutch will not fully release, then i wouldnt be able to shift gears while driving the car. yet, i was able to drive the car for all of 20 miles the other day.

also, i will be replacing all the cylinders, maybe that will help.

Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok stupid question but did you replace the PP when installed the new disk.

To me it sounds like the PP is worn out and not letting go. You said is shift in any other gear but 1st and R just with a fight. That to me sound like the PP since you really do not need the clutch to shift in 2-5(6) gear just wait until the gear opens.

Discussion Starter · #16 ·
baf32 said:
flywheel is fine
yea it may look fine but did you check to see if the step was correct, any time to change clutches there is going to be some damage to the flywheel. I may not be cracks or anything like that but it still going to lose it step(just do to basic friction and all)

"Flywheel step is the step height of the outer shelf that the clutch pressure plate bolts to. It is the difference between the friction surface and the upper step shown here in the pic. As the clutch's friction surface wears over time and with use, it becomes uneven and needs to be machined flat when ever a new clutch is installed. If you were to machine only the friction surface of the flywheel, the clutch wouldn't grab and hold as well. The step height is critical to proper clutch operation. Too little (shallow) and the clutch will hold power great but it will have trouble releasing. You wont have enough room for the pressure plate to fully retract. When ever a DSM flywheel is resurfaced, how ever much material is removed from the friction surface must also be removed from the upper step. Most local machine shops use a special machine for this. You will ask for the step and you will be lucky to get with in .005" of what you ask for. Most all of these machines are set up to resurface the flywheel at a slight angle (inner diameter slightly deeper than the outer diameter). Often the tool they are using to measure is not accurate and they dont even know how to read it. "

quoted from
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.