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Discussion Starter #1
Next weekend, Ocala half mile.
I have a set of HKS drags. Looking for some good base starting points on where to set the front and rear suspension settings.
Car is a 6 speed and makes between 850-900whp.

Im going to bring and test two set of wheels.

-305/35x18 Toyo R888's
-275X Mickey Thompson street radial pro's

Thanks
 

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I would take the car down to a suspension specialist who have experience with that sort of racing and have them tune it for you. Explain to them what you want the suspension to do and what problems you had last time so they can improve it.
 

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I would suggest boost by speed, have 2nd gear with slightly lower boost and stick with R888's. I think that those MT are going to be too soft past 160mph and the car will feel loose up top.

When i ran the 1/2 mile event, car ran fine with softer setting suspension and R888's. I have less power than you (740whp) and hit 169mph. I think if you harden the dampers, you will spin more.

Ryan
 

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Boost Junkie
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Wade,

What wheels did you end up with for the 18s? I'm doing a half mile event here in Indiana in October. I look forward to seeing how you do.

Steve
 

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^ Steve, since I was admiring Wade's new Forgestars, I'll just put this here:

My F14 18x11 came into today. +48offset. Once I get my R888 305-35s on, and the HKS drags installed and aligned I will post pics.
Only running this wheel as rears for halfmile and street use.
heres a quick shot of my new rears!

 

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Not my car and I wasn't driving (riding passenger), but just my $.02 on tires. Guys running R888 in Arizona last month had a way harder time finding traction at lower power levels (~700hp) than Nawar's car which was equipped with MT ET streets and logging 1000hp on the ProEFI. We hit 185mph and car was straight as an arrow the whole time.
 

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Not my car and I wasn't driving (riding passenger), but just my $.02 on tires. Guys running R888 in Arizona last month had a way harder time finding traction at lower power levels (~700hp) than Nawar's car which was equipped with MT ET streets and logging 1000hp on the ProEFI. We hit 185mph and car was straight as an arrow the whole time.
Wasn't it cold out though? I know my R888s will hook, but if it is below 60s they have a much harder time.

Steve
 

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Mind if I do a J?
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Wasn't it cold out though? I know my R888s will hook, but if it is below 60s they have a much harder time.

Steve
I don't remember the exact temperature but it wasn't cold. I was out there in jeans and a t-shirt and being from the desert, I'm in a sweater if it's below 80.
 

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I don't remember the exact temperature but it wasn't cold. I was out there in jeans and a t-shirt and being from the desert, I'm in a sweater if it's below 80.
Good information.

Thanks,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mt streets feel way more stable over 160 than my radial pro's at those speeds.
 

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Luvs ( . ) ( . )s
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I ran on Tein RA suspension with 600lb rear springs and MT ET street radials on belak 15s at the half, traction wasn't a problem. The car did 178 @ around 900ish whp, it felt super stable even braking.
 

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Somebody has to have some baseline suspension settings to try for a car like this in the 1/2 mile?? I'm very interested in hearing this as well.

That wheel tire combo looks sick! Is it generally recommended to do a proper burnout for a R888 to hook as best it can?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've noticed some little burnout helps. Heat helps.
Theses r888 don't do as well traction wise down low as my radial PRO but are way more stable and responsive over 150mph. It's a safe tradeoff. Half miles are about MPH, not ET. So some spin and sacrifice down low are not a huge issue to me
 

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Somebody has to have some baseline suspension settings to try for a car like this in the 1/2 mile?? I'm very interested in hearing this as well.

That wheel tire combo looks sick! Is it generally recommended to do a proper burnout for a R888 to hook as best it can?
The Toyo's grip difference is huge cold vs hot. Here in Norway they are "useless" on the street for a daily driver unless you drive very aggressive all the time, you are better off with a normal high performance street tire due to the low temperatures here. I have done a lot of time attack and drifting with this tire and i always have to do one or two laps (depending on track length) to warm up the R888's for them to grip well.
 

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^ I agree with Olav. Also, a bias or radial drag tire is made to heat up faster with just a good burnout and then a few seconds later they've done their job; but the R888's are designed to heat up after a couple hard laps and then they come into their max traction condition which they maintain for many laps. I have never tried to heat R888's with a burnout but I'm skeptical if that makes enough heat for max traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Darn. Doubt the temps will be as high as needed for the tires to work well
 

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The R888's should work well for you. My 295/19 R888's hooked ~850WHP with no burnout at the GA WGF event -- didn't even spin them to clean them off. Once we got the boost ramp by MPH dialed in traction control was never activated. By late afternoon when it was hot and a lot of dust had been cleared off the runway I think we could have gotten a lot more aggressive with the boost ramp and not leaned on the TC. The year prior they dead-hooked ~700WHP with no boost strategy. Hell, they even hooked in a drizzle with no problem. One thing I've learned over the years is your alignment is the absolute key to straight-line traction. Once I got my alignment sorted I went from blowing the tires away at 600WHP or less to hooking 2nd gear at 800WHP no problem on the street (same tires) with no boost strategy. Not to mention Jay from Real St was hooking ~1300WHP at the same event on 18" R888's.


As for the settings on the HKS Drags... I would set them up to whatever is the most stable at speed, and doesn't unsettle on the shifts (fairly firm). Their intended application, or otherwise their real 'benefit' is on the hit at the drag strip, which doesn't really mean shit for the 1/2 mile..
 

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As far as alignment goes (HellBringer), do you mean near stock settings or basically zero-ing out the rear for max contact patch under acceleration (maybe a hair toe out and/or a hair positive camber)?
 

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Wade,

After reading these responses and based off of my own experience I think alignment is absolutely key. My car was aligned at Track One in Nashville. They specialize in Porsche Cup and Ferrari cars as well as other high end racing cars. Matt there was absolutely meticulous when performing the alignment on my car and it shows. I would take your car to a local race shop to see if they can make sure the alignment is set up perfectly. My rear settings are .75 negative camber and toe is like 5mm. The front and rear matching is absolutely key. A good shop can explain it to you.

Steve K.
 
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