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Over Medicated
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm curious if anyone is running the Mickey Thompson E/T Streets without tubes? I've read through there website and they say that it can be done but that there is no garentee that the tire will seal to the rim and that using a tube with it is recommended for consistency.
I would like to run a set on my spare NA rims if I could but don't want to mess with a tube if I don't have to.
 

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Heres the thing. I'm willing to bet most run them without tubes as it is.

If you run a tube with these tires without a beadlock rim, you take the chance of spinning the rim inside the tire. Usually not a big deal, but with a tube you shear off the valve stem and your screwed. This is especially common with low tire pressures.

Later,
Alex W.
 

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<-- no tube here either, aight peace :chicken:
 

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had no tubes on et streets and spun the tire on the rim... destroyed the tires

i suggest running beadlocks on all bias ply tires!

btw... i was pushing a mere 417rwhp at the time but cutting 1.6 60fts

do you plan on running bias ply front runners as well ? if you dont ill be the first to warn you that it gets really squirrely on the top end
 

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I run 26x10.5's (should be running 11.5's but got a deal on the 10.5's) with NO tubes at all and never had any problems.. only sometimes if I let the car sit for a while for some reason the passanger side tire will leak. Other than that.. no problems.
 

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Never enough
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I have no problems either at the track, but when the car sits for a few weeks it loses a good amount of air in both tires. I'm running 26x11.5x16 ET Streets on Bogart drag stars.
 

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I've run them without tubes and without any problems but I'm using the stock TT 17" wheels. You could always run screws through the wheel and tire to make sure they don't spin on the wheel.
 

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Why do you guys warn of regular wheels/tires up front making it so bad at high speed. How do skinnies help?
 

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If you run a really soft "crush" sidewall tire on the rear with a hard sidewall radial on the front, the rear end will feel "wobbly" when the car is at speed at the end of the track. It's sort of like the front end is going straight, but the rear end is moving side to side as you drive straight. The faster you go, the worse it gets. Running bias ply tires or skinnies on the front will solve this problem at the track as they have some "give" and allow the car to kind of "float".
 

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Z-Gad said:
If you run a really soft "crush" sidewall tire on the rear with a hard sidewall radial on the front, the rear end will feel "wobbly" when the car is at speed at the end of the track. It's sort of like the front end is going straight, but the rear end is moving side to side as you drive straight. The faster you go, the worse it gets. Running bias ply tires or skinnies on the front will solve this problem at the track as they have some "give" and allow the car to kind of "float".
exactly.........plus if you have regualr radials up front they tend to find any grooves in the track and pull you towards them......large radials are also very sensitive to any steering corrections which is a very bad thing to have when you have bias ply tires on the rear. The skinnies are not sensitive to steering input and as said allow the car to kind of "float" while being able to guide the car.
 

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swearitsstock said:
had no tubes on et streets and spun the tire on the rim... destroyed the tires

i suggest running beadlocks on all bias ply tires!

btw... i was pushing a mere 417rwhp at the time but cutting 1.6 60fts

do you plan on running bias ply front runners as well ? if you dont ill be the first to warn you that it gets really squirrely on the top end


tubes add stability and consistency to the tires because they effectively stiffen the sidewall and can keep them from losing air over time as most slicks will do without tubes and to say anyone running bias ply tires should run bead locks is very extreme..lol..

if you spun the tire off the rim on your low powered car with a 1.6 60ft then you must have had like 3 psi in the tires :scratch: some of you guys forget you have 3700lbs cars.. they should'nt have less then 10-12psi in the slicks and even that is probably to low...

unless your woon or marko, I would'nt even think about beadlocks(unless you have money to burn) and even those guys probably get away with just using rim screws on the inside and outside of the wheels.. :)
 

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Over Medicated
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Discussion Starter #14
Z-Gad said:
If you run a really soft "crush" sidewall tire on the rear with a hard sidewall radial on the front, the rear end will feel "wobbly" when the car is at speed at the end of the track. It's sort of like the front end is going straight, but the rear end is moving side to side as you drive straight. The faster you go, the worse it gets. Running bias ply tires or skinnies on the front will solve this problem at the track as they have some "give" and allow the car to kind of "float".
Would going with the widder 26x11.5x16 ET help?
Right now I've got Nitto DR's on the 16's and they just suck. I can't seem to cut a decent 60', may just be the driver :rolleyes: .
I don't really want tor have to get a completely different set of rims for the front. Maybe I'll just go with the BFG DR's. :scratch:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't know if I can fit a 55 series tire either. 28" tall is alot.
 

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kbprice said:
I don't know if I can fit a 55 series tire either. 28" tall is alot.
Im running the 28" M&H drag radials on my Supra. They fit fine. They rub when the car is in the air, but when its on the ground its good. Fenders aren't rolled or cut at all. I'm running stock suspension though, so if your car is lowered, it may be different.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
SupraSpeedMKIV said:
Im running the 28" M&H drag radials on my Supra. They fit fine. They rub when the car is in the air, but when its on the ground its good. Fenders aren't rolled or cut at all. I'm running stock suspension though, so if your car is lowered, it may be different.
Yea my car is lowered about 1 1/4 inches in the rear that's why I'm worried. Thanks for the info this is all very helpful.
 

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I was going through this decision myself, as I have to replace my DR's, as I now have cords showing through mine... I was looking at the ET streets as well, but did not want to have to change my fronts either. I just ordered another pair of the MT's from Summit yesterday. I figured I was able to cut a 1.462 60' launching off of the footbrake with the 255/50/16 Mickey Thompson DR's, how much better could it be with the ET streets? I too tried the Nitto's first, but found them to be a harder compound than the MT's, and couldn't get a good hard launch with them to save my life. The MT's at ~ 15psi seem to work for me, but I am only 2750 with driver and fuel :p so I bought another set.
 
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