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Discussion Starter #1
my car was in a shop for more than a month, could it be the alternator?
 

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TE44 NA-T
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If the car was not running it isn't the alternator. If it has just been sitting for most of the time, than you most likely have a parasitic draw draining the battery.
 
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i got a new battery, started the car, left it idling for 5 minutes, disconnected the positive terminal and the car died, that means the alternator is dead right?
 

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well probably but best way to check if your alternator is dead is start the car w/ the battery. then remove the battery and see if the alternator can hold the power during idle.
 
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mifesto said:
well probably but best way to check if your alternator is dead is start the car w/ the battery. then remove the battery and see if the alternator can hold the power during idle.
if i unplug the positive first the car dies instantly. ill try disconecting the negative first thing tomorrow and ill post what happens.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Hokiesup said:
What kind of electronic mods do you have?
two very cheap 10s putting out about 200 watts each, i think thats not enough to drain the battery, i had that for over a year now with no problems at all
 

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SupraPunk said:
if i unplug the positive first the car dies instantly. ill try disconecting the negative first thing tomorrow and ill post what happens.
disconnecting either wire will break the closed circuit... yeah it does sound like the alternator is dead. another method i read was by connecting a volt meter (to the battery i think?) and check if the voltage climbs up as your revs increase. if it doesnt, your alternator is shot.
 
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took it to a shop, the alternator is dead, he tried another used alternator he said worked fine, dead too, so i ordered a new one and ill install it tomorrow. if the new one doesnt work then im f**ked
 

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SupraPunk said:
i got a new battery, started the car, left it idling for 5 minutes, disconnected the positive terminal and the car died, that means the alternator is dead right?

lol, are you fuc.... for real??????????????? who told you to do that?? unfuc........ real, lol,
with the car running check the voltage across batt. terminals, it should be between
13-14v depending on the charged state of the batt.(at idle), then turn all the consumers on and recheck the voltage-if it drops below 12.6 your alternator is shot,
if not then it means you have a parasitic draw someplace, i've found blower motor relay sticky in couple of supras so as to give you heads up, Rob NJ.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
mydawgsupra94tt said:
lol, are you fuc.... for real??????????????? who told you to do that?? unfuc........ real, lol,
with the car running check the voltage across batt. terminals, it should be between
13-14v depending on the charged state of the batt.(at idle), then turn all the consumers on and recheck the voltage-if it drops below 12.6 your alternator is shot,
if not then it means you have a parasitic draw someplace, i've found blower motor relay sticky in couple of supras so as to give you heads up, Rob NJ.
i saw that posted in a thread so i tried doing it, i dont know jak shit about electricity and voltage and all that stuff, but when the shop was testing both alternators it was below 12.6. so lets see what the new alternator does but they mentioned something about a possible relay failure, ill post the outcome, stay tuned :)
 

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If your still getting draws from your battery check your interior hatch light and your door strikers to make sure the switches aren't broke off , making it think the door is open when its shut.
 

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The way you can test to see if there is a current draw on your car is like this: you need a digital multi-meter. Unhook the positive side of the battery, and attach one of the multi meter leads to the battery cable you just unhooked, and attach the other side to the positive battery post (a vice grip will hold it there perfectly). Then set the multimeter to read DC amperage. Make sure EVERYTHING on the car is turned off, so you don't have any lights on, doors open, trunk open, etc. The maximum acceptable current draw will be something like 0.03 - 0.035 amps. If it reads that much or more draw, then something in your car is killing your battery and the fun part of troubleshooting starts!
 
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Discussion Starter #16
sorry i didnt update but it was the alternator, the one i had was messed up, the used one that i replaced was messed up too, the new one is working perfectly, thanks
 
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