[mwsupra23]

ok so i tried to set my timming and i know your supposed to set it to 10 degrees tdc with a jumper wire in the data link plug to te1 and e1 i cant get it to 10 degrees my dist wont turn enough i have the bl 2.5 headgasket if that matters and im sure it does am i not doing something right please let me know what i am doing wrong or if it is something else that is wrong
thanks in advance

 

[Griffon]

Do you have stock cam gears or aftermarket???

 

[mwsupra23]

i have stock gears

 

[mwsupra23]

does it make it easier with aftermarket gears and if so i will get some of those and hw wuld yoou set it with them thanks

 

[kbprice]

If you can't get it to 10 btdc then you are probably off a tooth on the distributor when you put it back it. Take the cam cover off and verify that both cams line up with the matchmarks on the front of the camshield. Then check that your crank mark is lined up at 0. At this point remove your distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to where the #1 plug wire is. It is possible that it is just off a tooth and you'll have to unbolt it, pull it out, turn it slightly and slide it back in.
Hope that helped.

 

[mwsupra23]

If you can't get it to 10 btdc then you are probably off a tooth on the distributor when you put it back it. Take the cam cover off and verify that both cams line up with the matchmarks on the front of the camshield. Then check that your crank mark is lined up at 0. At this point remove your distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to where the #1 plug wire is. It is possible that it is just off a tooth and you'll have to unbolt it, pull it out, turn it slightly and slide it back in.
Hope that helped.

all my timing marks line up the ones on the cam and on the crank the rotor is pointing to the # 1 on the cap i do have a bl crank pulley as well if that matters should the engine change rpms when you put in the jumper wire

 

[kbprice]

I've got the BL crank pulley also. No the RPM shouldn't change when you insert the jumper.

 

[craaaazzy]

quick question about timing as well since i've got the 2.5mm bl headgasket also. is the jumper required due to stock ecu compensating if not jumped? reason i ask is i've got an aem so do i need to jump the 2 pins as well?

 

[WhiteBlazze]

Where are you at man? I can take a look at it with you if you want. I'm over here in stafford. You either have the distributor off a tooth, vaccum leaks causing the idle to run higher than it should, not grounding the right pins, etc.

 

[Ravan17]

i didnt even realize that anything had to be done with the timing..... when i went NA-t with the bl 2.5mm hg i just had the SAFCII and no timing was changed....

 

[DarkStar]

This is interesting...I've got the BL 2.5 as well (getting ready to torque the head down right now actually) and from what I've been told, as long as you have a standalone or an safc to compensate for the lower compression, you should be fine. Just set that bitch back to base timing.

 

[kbprice]

If you read the first post he can't even turn the distributor enough to get it to base timing. This is what makes me think he is a tooth off.

 

[Ravan17]

yea, most def. sounds like he is off a tooth if he cant get it to base timing on the dizzy

 

[twinturbosupra94]

wait.....i have a boostlogic 2.5mm headgasket...is there something special I have to do because I am having alot of trouble installing the timing belt....

 

[craaaazzy]

so does anyone know if you have to jump the 2 pins when setting the timing if using an AEM?

 

[mwsupra23]

wait.....i have a boostlogic 2.5mm headgasket...is there something special I have to do because I am having alot of trouble installing the timing belt....

the timming belt will fit it is tight until you get it on im just trying to adjust timing nothing is wrong i just had the dist out and im trying to get it back to base timing as far as i know you dont have to do anything with the timing as far as advance or retarding it just set it back to base timing

im gonna take the dist out and make sure it is not off a tooth but i dont think it is cause ive had it out once and tried that but just to make sure its not im gonna try it again anyway
thanks to all of you guys for the help and advise ill let you know what happens

 

[twinturbosupra94]

wait...i kind of just popped the distributor in...is there some kind of setting or position i was suppose to put it in?

and when i mean the timing belt is tight, it is very tight.....i dont wanna muscle it but is that how you guys get it on?

 

[DarkStar]

You need to have EVERYTHING set to TDC (Top Dead Center). On the dizzy there are 2 marks you need to line up. THEN slide the distributor in and tighten the retainer bolt. If you marked where the bolt was to begin with you should be fine.

I don't mean to threadjack, but can I ask what ft/lbs you torqued the head to? I used factory specs with ARP headstuds. I'm assuming this is correct. Factory spec is 25 ft/lbs. Anyone know if this is correct?

 

[kbprice]

ARP's have different torque specs than factory. I believe it's 75ft/lbs.

 

[twinturbosupra94]

You need to have EVERYTHING set to TDC (Top Dead Center). On the dizzy there are 2 marks you need to line up. THEN slide the distributor in and tighten the retainer bolt. If you marked where the bolt was to begin with you should be fine.

I don't mean to threadjack, but can I ask what ft/lbs you torqued the head to? I used factory specs with ARP headstuds. I'm assuming this is correct. Factory spec is 25 ft/lbs. Anyone know if this is correct?

thanks I be sure to take a look at that

do you happen to know where the marking are? and do i need to remove the valve covers?

Do you also know what else needs to be set to TDC?