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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to get all of my trim shaved on my supra. Does anybody have some helpful advice?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
the inside of my trim pieces were all rusting out so now that they are off i figured i would just make it all flush

im shaving the handles too
 
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us too. I was told fiberglass would be the best if you do it in your garage.
 
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how do you plan on doing it? somebody told me just to fill the gaps in with body filler and then grind it down so it was smooth and then paint over it
 

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Canada, Eh?
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thats what i want to do when i paint mine. PLEASE post pictures during the buildup if possible, i would like to see how you do it.
 
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86TSUPRA said:
how do you plan on doing it? somebody told me just to fill the gaps in with body filler and then grind it down so it was smooth and then paint over it
well we curently don't know how to work with fiberglass, we're getting a friend of a friend that wroks at a body shop to help us with it. We'll take plenty of pics during it. Probably won't be for another month though.

In was told that regular bondo type filler would be to heavy and it might fall out or something like that.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Fiberglass or steel is the way to go. Fiberglass is about the easiest way to do it in your garage. you could also come up with a sheet of metal to fit in there. Both ways will require lots of work. Bondo is the easiest way and cheapest, but it's heavy and has potential to fall out. If you're looking at ways to do this, look in to any hardcore mini truckin person. Mini trucker always seem to get the tailgate skin and some have gone so far as to shave all the body lines and handles.

Last thing, if you shave the door handles, you will need a way to get into the car in case you have problems. My favorite idea is rig up a lock that will complete a circuit from a seperate battery. Otherwise there's many other tricks that one can use if the battery fails in your car.
 

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Supras Invade Las Vegas
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Solenoids...

I am planning to shave my door handles this year. Last year I installed a solenoid from AutoLoc to replace the cable to the fuel door that stopped working. They make several different levels for various projects... They also have a VERY cool module to make your passenger window have auto up/down functions from both switches.

Check out the AutoLoc website at www.autoloc.com.

I got lucky... they're a couple miles from my office. :)

Keith
Planning for Shaved Door Handles at this year's Vegas event. Come see what else I am working on.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
ok this is an area that i am at my best for i have done lots of times.please excuse any spelling error's as i am tring to help someone note write an essay
things you will need fiberglas filler,light weight body filler(not bondo brand),sand paper 80,120,180,220 and 320(and use in those steps)
please not the only reason i did not do this too my car is that you will still have the moldings above the front and rear bumper.
for shaveing the lock make anther post and i will post how to

1.take moldings off
2.grind or sand to bare metal(note when you grind or shave go past the area about 6 inches)
3.if you are going cheap buy a gallon of bondo glass with hair if not go to local body shop supply store and buy marglass,stuffit or any other glass they might carry
4.mix the glass and apply where molding was let dry
5.to check if it is dry drag your fingure across top if it has a slight drag then that is goodsand a little not alot
6.no the hole will not fill on the first coat so keep doing step4 & 5 until hole is almost level
7.now you are going to go back to the store and get some light body filler do not use the brand bondo it wil crack and is very heavy
8.no this step is called floating this has to be done to blend into the car
9.mix as told on can and apply remember the 6" i said apply to that line now sand it with 80 grit then you might have to apply more and then sand again and keep doing this proccess until you can take some with an strait edge and follow the body and it is levvel all the way down
10.primer and paint note do not use lacquar primer for it will make the paint lift
 

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stop pulling me over pigs
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i always wonderd how it would look shaved off...i was just talking about that wit mike cuz his moldings are all retarded and rusty...the previous owner, like a tool, drilled them in with sheet metal screws...I'd like to punch that guy :mad: Dont even get me started with using bondo...hehe my last car was a total bondo-buggy :) 1981 chevy citation 2 door hatch bay-beh.. ;)
 

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664 rwhp / 590 rwtqe
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I was going to do this when I painted my car. There was a pic going around the main list a year or two ago of a orangish brown mkiii with shaved moldings all around and shaved door handles. It looks like total ass!!! The doors look good, but when you try to shave the pieces above the bumpers, it looks awfull. There's no way you can get it to come out looking clean. Just my $.02. Go out and look at your molding on your car and picture it not being there over the bumpers and maybe you'll see what I mean....
 

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Fuzz E. Guy
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I have seen the mouldings painted to match the body colour. I think that looks good. It makes them less noticeable. Just my $.02
 
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Discussion Starter #17
again that is why i did not do it !!i do know a way to do it but it is way to much work but if the someone paid the money i could make it look mint
 
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Discussion Starter #18
If you can weld decent , then this whole thing seems pretty simple. Just buy a little $250 wire feed welder, get some thin metal striping from a foundry, remove molding, sand to bare metal, tack them into place, cover with f-glass, finish with light weight plastic body filler, USE AN AIR POWERED LINE SANDER, finish to level, prime with primer/sealer, paint. Not to bad huh? Any other questions?
James
 
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Discussion Starter #19
If you'd have waited 2 days newstarr3, you could have dug this thread up on it's year anniversary.....then it would have become a zombie, and ate other threads, and shit. Oh well.

-Cory
 

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ma70-7m=1JZ
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Dont just fill the gap it will crack and shrink and probably fall off in a year or two. I did mine myself last summer. I welded strips of sheet metal in the gaps and than a skim coat of body filler to straighten it out. I work in a body shop and it took about two months to do in the evenings and weekends. Search for "naked supra" for info and pics. The hardest parts was fabricating the pieces on the rear quarter panels/ under the tail lights.
 
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