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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so the car is in good mechanical shape, the engine is fairly new, there's tons of new parts, etc.

There are two problems..

1) The power steering doesn't work. I had to muscle the car around at low speeds, which.. if I have to share the car with my sister it just won't work.

2) It's throwing a code 52.


So the power steering is semi new, but has a hole somewhere and leaks. So I'm assuming the little container will need to be fixed, and the belt will need to be put on. Does anyone know how much that will cost?

Also, will the code 52 prevent me from passing inspection? Should I be worried about it?

I'm looking to buy this car so any advice is appreciated.
 

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two wheels is all i need
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Also, will the code 52 prevent me from passing inspection? Should I be worried about it?
Yes, Any check engine light will automatically fail you.
 

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power steering depends on where it's leaking from but if it's the rack, that's probably expensive. If it's one of the lines, that assembly is expensive to replace but you can run new lines with fittings for much cheaper. It's a bit of a PITA to get to some of the connections to replace those, however, but not impossible. IIRC it took me about four hours to change the lines out and I'd never done it before. Then it took three days to get a new banjo bolt to replace the one that I broke, then about another hour to dig that fucker out with an easy-out (at least banjo bolts are pre-drilled sorta) and then get the new one on there.

IIRC, code 52 is knock sensor, and I've had a code 52 for three years at least (I'm lazy) and it drives fine. Either your wiring is bad (common, read up on the knock sensor rewire mod from the sogi site) or one or both of your knock sensors are bad (most likely it's one) and they are not hard to change out.

Overall, if the car is in good shape otherwise I would say that neither of these are reasons not to buy the car, but I wouldn't pay full price for it with those issues. If you get a good deal on it then I'd say go for it.
 

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Heavy Right Foot
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for question one.. just dont let your sister drive and use that as an excuse..

question two.. knock sensor.. most likely the wiring.. esy to rewire using some coax cable.. as stated above check the sogi site for the rewire info and instructions..

word


sounds like easy fixes..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm going to stop by an inspection place tomorrow to see if a knock sensor code will fail me. My old Prelude passed with a CEL like 2 months ago, but the Jeep Wrangler failed because it's CEL was based on emissions. But.. I don't think it was because of the CEL.

I'm planning on getting a buyer's inspection regardless, but do you think they will catch where it's coming from? Power steering isn't a huge deal to me, but it needs to work.

PS.. He's asking $4k for a 87 Turbo Targa with 120K (60k on new motor) with tein ss coilovers, 18" wheels, new calipers/ss lines, tanabe sway bars, a new (possibly upgraded) fuel pump, RPS clutch, and a couple other things. Cosmetically it needs some paint and body work, along with interior stuff and a head unit. I think $3500 is fair..
 

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two wheels is all i need
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Hmm well i guess i got a Nazi for my test.
 

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they're not supposed to pass it if the CEL is on!!!

it means the car is either not mechanicly sound, or it's been tampered with, hence why they auto-fail you...

at least they're supposed to, they could lose their license for passing you IIRC...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I talked to some woman today who thought I was saying the oxygen sensor was bad, not knock sensor. After 5 minutes I explained she said she didnt know.. go figure.

But she did say that it won't pass without power steering.. =/
 

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if you eliminate power steering properly (meaning you loop the lines so that there is very little resistance), it's not bad at all from what I've heard.

a LOT of cars didn't have power steering so she's full of shit...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah she said some BS like it's a safety issue. I hate all of the people there. I don't think I'm going to take it there because they are such douchebags.

But honestly, it kind of is. The car has 8 in wide wheels up front IIRC and, damn, it was tough. I work out regularly and had to muscle it.
 

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in texas if a car has a check engine light on it will automatically fail. also if a car comes with power steering and it is not working properly an inspector will also fail it. another option u can try is to get a waiver. they give those to people who cant pass state inspection, and cant afford to pay for the repairs. but the cost of the repairs has to be over $1000 i think.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nah, the mechanic at a local shop said on cars of this year that they only go by tail pipe emissions, not CEL's.

My '94 Prelude passed and it was throwing a CEL.
 

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Shop Tech All Around Auto
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In Texas, only OBD II cars are failed for the CEL, and all cars need to have all of the safety and drivability systems in good condition.

Why not put in a new knock sensor? In a fuel injected, computer controlled car, ALL sensors are important to how the car runs.

As far as the power steering, how much it costs depends on where its leaking. Clean the whole p.s. system, and watch for where it leaks from. It could be a $.50 clamp, or a $200 rack and pinion. You won't know untill you go look. The belt shouldn't cost more then $15 from your local parts store for a good one. Put the belt on, fill the reservoir with ATF, find what's leaking, and start calling parts stores for price and availability.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, that makes sense. I thought that might be it. The Supra and Prelude are both OBD-I, and the Wrangler is OBD-II and failed with the CEL. I'm willing to bet that's it..

He said it leaked the whole reservoir overnight. I'd fix it myself but I don't want to dick around with it. I've had enough of that for the time being.. lol. But I'll definitely take a look to make sure they don't try to screw me in any way.

As far as the knock sensor goes, I understand that it retards timing (reducing power) but he had it checked out and said it was the main harness corroding away. I don't want to shell out the $700-1000 to get it replaced, but you're right, the knock sensor itself is a possibility. I will probably replace it anyway if it's not too expensive.
 

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you can rewire the knock sensors seperately...

if the reservoir is leaking, it's gonna be the hose from the bottom of the reservoir to the pump, it likes to fall apart from the ATF over time and leak...
 
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