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I'm on the fence at this point, I could put another auto rear in the car, and swap my TRD diff over.... OR replace it all and go with a Fabricated 9" Ford and Ladder bars. For what I do with the car, the Ladder bar setup would be ideal and virtually unbreakable. So far with the IRS setup I've done nothing but destroy parts... I'm completely fed up with it, but don't really want to cut my car up that bad... I'm on the fence! What do you guys think?
 

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I love sequentials!
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Find another solution ...


1. You don't want to cut the car up for Ford parts
2. You don't want to continue in the path that you are
3. ????



What parts are you breaking, you've said you've "done nothing but destroy parts" so what parts are you breaking?
 

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I can see no reason not to dump the IRS and go with a solid rear setup unless you are class racing and your class does not allow it.

Also I would reduce the weight as much as you would personally still be comfortable with. Lighter the car less strain on parts.
 

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1,150+ rwhp club
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F
What parts are you breaking, you've said you've "done nothing but destroy parts" so what parts are you breaking?
I *think* he's broken

2 driveshafts
1 diff
1 pinion
1 axle

most all of them were on seperate occasions.


Now to go 9" or IRS.... What what you use the car for... I say 9" as long as it doesn't mutilate the car too bad.
 

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Something is to aggressive...i have never seen an auto destroy this much stuff. What gear ratio are you using, fwd or reverse valve body? What gear ratio in the rear? etc? more details please
 

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Something is to aggressive...i have never seen an auto destroy this much stuff. What gear ratio are you using, fwd or reverse valve body? What gear ratio in the rear? etc? more details please

Stock TT Auto ratio... 3.77 or whatever.
I don't know much about the tranny.
 

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How hard are you leaving when you have a good pass? How much does your car weigh? If you're to the level where you're considering a live axle...take some weight out of the car, lightweight auto IRS supras can cut 1.3's.

EDIT: And by 'some weight' I mean a lot of weight.
 

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wasting my life on SF
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if the car is drag only (i assume it is or close to) i would remove weight before the solid axel. i would hate to lose the irs in favor of a solid axel myself.
 

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If the car is drag-only then it's not for drivability reasons, but judging on how he's talking his setup is not working as efficiently as possible. If he's not cutting at least 1.4's or 1.5's then there is room to improve his setup. Same logic of going with a T6 monster turbo when you're not going as quickly as you should in the first place on your little T4.


Get your car dialed in, if you need more, then start changing things.
 

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Get your car dialed in, if you need more, then start changing things.

His best is a 1.43.
Consistant 1.4x's

What's left to dial in? Weight wise, he's knocking on 3450-3500 range.

Oh... and it runs a AEM that has worked 100% of the time :jerkit:


Other then Tx... what class would the car be DQed from with a 9"? A th400 knocks him out of most import racing as is. For Domestic drag radial class, it's completely allowed.
 

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Boost Junkie
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Something else must be causing the breakage. Where does he brake the parts? After he leaves, through the 60ft, Etc. Is he getting tire shake or wheel hop?

Steve
 

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His best is a 1.43.
Consistant 1.4x's

What's left to dial in? Weight wise, he's knocking on 3450-3500 range.

Oh... and it runs a AEM that has worked 100% of the time :jerkit:


Other then Tx... what class would the car be DQed from with a 9"? A th400 knocks him out of most import racing as is. For Domestic drag radial class, it's completely allowed.
Listen Ace, if you have an issue with me making a joke in my signature about a known problem, then you obviously have some insecurities about it. I've written in nearly every thread it's discussed - if it works for you, great, there isn't any reason to switch, if you've had one (or two or three) break, then look somewhere else.

I think we sent three boxes back today alone actually. But luckily you're the expert and can educate me.

Keep quiet if you don't know what you're talking about.



Now back to the topic.

This is why I asked how quick his car was. If it's set up that well and breaking parts then lightening the car may help him reduce breakages and drop ETs. If he really just wants to race and go quicker, sure, no one is saying it won't be a quicker car with a live axle, I and others are merely offering other solutions that would be less expensive and you wouldn't have to cut up the car.

That was the topic of the thread wasn't it? He act for others' input on the idea.
 

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There is no need for a Ford 9". The car must not be setup right or there is a issue with the parts you are using. There is no reason that you need a soild rear in a 88/auto car.
 

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e-cunt kicker
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ladder bar, no way. Horrible to drive on the street.

But a well setup 4 link is great to drive and will knock huge time of the 60ft once you get it dialed in.
 

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I would only go solid rear if you are gonna completely gut the car and run a pro or outlaw class with a clutchless trans and alcohol. Usually drag radial classes require stock style suspension. If you don't want to cut up your supra...buy my SC chassis :wavey:

 

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Inline for the win
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Keep it IRS...

It will retain more value and be able to be switched back to stock on a later date.

DP
 

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Flying Dutchman Pilot!
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This is a silly question, but I guess you have to check everything when you have problems. Do you have preload in the driveline when staged?

I agree with Mark, if you are willing to cut up the car, you'd def be willling to remove weight from it which is also a lot more reversible than removing the IRS and from what I've seen you have a very nice car. I am not attacking you, but I do think that other people have gone faster with the IRS, so I would think that you are doing something different and I would figure out what that is before taking such a big step. How pissed would you be if you did all that work and still had problems?
 
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