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Discussion Starter #1
I've found a 2" lowering kit, and wondering if it would look good lowered.

I've got a ground effects kit.

So, this is my question. SHould I go Stock or lowered?
 

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Does this lowering kit include a means for correct the camber problems on the rear wheels? If not, don't try it - you'll totally screw up your car's handling.

Apart from that, it's a case of personal preference. I wouldn't mind slightly better handling, but I kinda like the way the car rides now and I wouldn't want to make it too much harsher. You priorities may be different to mine though.
 
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Norbie said:
Does this lowering kit include a means for correct the camber problems on the rear wheels? If not, don't try it - you'll totally screw up your car's handling.

Apart from that, it's a case of personal preference. I wouldn't mind slightly better handling, but I kinda like the way the car rides now and I wouldn't want to make it too much harsher. You priorities may be different to mine though.
Good point. The car would still be 3-4" off the ground, so a comfortable ride wouldn't be sacrificed. I'll have to check into the camber problem. I don't think lowering the springs, or even getting a bosy drop would affect the springs too much, but hey, if I were a professional I wouldn't have asked for opinions.
 
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Norbie - I have a set of Eibach 1" lowering springs and was thinking of installing them over the winter. Now my goal is to autox and road race my supra so won't the extra camber be a good thing?

I remeber Reg's tips on suspension and he says something similar- extra camber bad for normal driving but good for performance driving...

Thanks!
 
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If you have the original springs, they are probably shot but now. So your rear is probably already lowered. The Eibach springs if I remember right low the car 2 inches, but stiffens up the ride. If you don't mind a stiffere ride, I would go for it especially if your rear is sagging.
 

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Some negative camber is certainly a good thing for performance driving, but you don't want too much! Even lowering the rear end 2-3 inches can result in excessive camber.

The main problem with the Mk2's rear suspension is the way the camber changes as the wheels move up and down. So while you may have an acceptable amount of camber while the car is stationary (say, 3 degrees), you might end up with 5 degrees as soon as the back end is loaded up (eg under acceleration). That's definitely too much camber!

This is the reason Mk2's are difficult to launch well - as soon as you step on the loud pedal, the back wheels splay out and the tyres aren't contacting the road properly - say goodbye to traction and hello to wheelspin!

There are several ways to get the camber back to factory specs after lowering the suspension. Some are more effective than others, but none of them are particularly easy since there is no built-in camber adjustment for the rear wheels.

The quickest way is to remove the large rubber bushes which separate the rear subframe from the floorpan - this raises the subframe about 10mm and subsequently pulls the camber in a degree or two. My plan is to take this a step further and machine 5-10mm of metal off the subframe to raise it even further - this should allow me to lower the car at least 2-3 inches while retaining close to factory camber specs.
 
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Norbie said:
This is the reason Mk2's are difficult to launch well - as soon as you step on the loud pedal, the back wheels splay out and the tyres aren't contacting the road properly - say goodbye to traction and hello to wheelspin!
I never had any problem launching my Mk2, which ran high 14 sec 1/4 miles. While you are right about the rear suspension having some camber and hard launch will increase it, but the tires will wear into the regular 3 degree (or so) camber setting.

The hardest thing about luanch a MK2 is that its power band is 4000-6000 and if you fall below 3500 it takes a while to get there. It has relative lack of low end torque which its V8 American Counter parts have (5.0 and Camaro). I imagine that a turbo Mk2 would have problem since the suspension is relatively soft, but I have no exeperience.
 

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My Mk2 has a 6M-GE which is pretty torquey from low rpm, and even with an automatic transmission the back end will break loose if I stomp on the go pedal from the lights! With a manual transmission it would be much worse. Admittedly my tyres aren't the best, but if you look at how they're wearing (ie on the inner edges) it's pretty obvious that only part of the tyre is touching the road when the car launches.

As for driving on a wet road - can you say "drift"? :)
 
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Norbie said:
My Mk2 has a 6M-GE which is pretty torquey from low rpm, and even with an automatic transmission the back end will break loose if I stomp on the go pedal from the lights! With a manual transmission it would be much worse. Admittedly my tyres aren't the best, but if you look at how they're wearing (ie on the inner edges) it's pretty obvious that only part of the tyre is touching the road when the car launches.

As for driving on a wet road - can you say "drift"? :)
I had a 6M-GE also, but with a 5 speed and some mods. If I was to floor my Supra from a roll it would squeal the tires (not spin) and go. My best drag strip launches were with a ~3750rpm clutch slip (not dump). My car would spin the tire for a a few feet and then go.

I think you probably need new tires. Yeah the limited slip isn't all that great in the rain (it really bad in the snow).
 

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Just a suggestion......when and if you bump up to a turbo, a suspension upgrade is way necessary. I still have the stock/shot suspension on mine with the 7mgte, and trust me, the car is not fun to handle at all. I've almost completely retracted from taking off fast since the car just sits down with all of the power. Just to let you know, you may want to look into thicker sway bars also.
 
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