Signs of Wheel Bearing Failure?

2946 Views 20 Replies 6 Participants Last post by quick, Oct 1, 2001

chnco

Discussion Starter · Sep 26, 2001

Does anyone know how I should find out if my wheel bearings are going out? And approx when they go out (60k)?

Also, I hear you have to replace the whole hub and what not?

Thanks!!

PS: How much does this usually run?

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

quick

· #2 · Sep 26, 2001

chnco said:
Does anyone know how I should find out if my wheel bearings are going out? And approx when they go out (60k)?

Also, I hear you have to replace the whole hub and what not?

PS: How much does this usually run?

Do you hear any noise from your wheels?

Best way to test is to take sharp corners fast and listen for noise from the wheels. For instance, if you suspect your driver rear bearing is going out, take a right hand turn hard and listen. This puts substantial g's on the wheel and bearing and you'll hear a rumbling if they're going bad.

I also hear noise when moving the car ever-so-slightly... sort of a creak.

What are you hearing?

$158 for the bearings and seals for the rear wheels. I have them sitting on my workbench right now and I will be replacing my rear bearings in the next two weeks. From what the TSRM says there is no need to replace the hub. Anyone who tells you so is... speculating.

Basically you pull the hub assy. and knock the races out, then install new outer race, bearing, and inner race... oil seals too.

When I asked Jeff Watson about the bearings going out he asked first if I had rims... I'm like... "Sure, 18s that are 10.5" wide"... he indicated that the car puts a tremendous load on these bearings when you have non-stock rims and it's to be expected that they'll need to be replaced.

Hope that helps.

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chnco

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 26, 2001

I'm hearing a some interesting noises. At first, it was a creaking, kinda like a long cranking noise, best way to describe it is. . .rrrrrrrrrrrr. . . . when going slow. But now, it has developed into a noise when the wheels rollover, like it will get faster as car goes faster? Accompanied by a EVER so slightly vibration, I can't hear it unless I roll up the windows, turn off the radio, and concentrate on the noise. But the vibration is what is getting to me. Kinda like a thump everytime it rolls over? Was it $158 for both rears? Got a part number by any chance? It sounds like its coming from under the car, more towards the rear. Thanks for the help! Let me know what you think!

quick

· #4 · Sep 26, 2001

Sounds like what I've been hearing. Yep $158 for the set of rear bearings and oil seals... that's both sides for $158 total.

I don't have part numbers... just give Jeff Watson a call at Jay Marks Yota... number at www.toyotaworld.com

Have you worked to ensure that it's not your ebrake?

Try the fast turn test I suggested.

Also, to ensure that it's not your brakes or ebrake try to get the noise to appear and then apply the brakes or ebrake and ensure that the noise doesn't go away. Don't decrease your speed when you do this, as it will make the noise go away if bearings.

Hope that helps, Allen. Drop me an email if you need information soon as I may forget to check back here.

chnco

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 26, 2001

Thanks for the help!

I'm pretty sure it's not the brakes since they are fairly new. I'll try the turn test tomorrow and let you know and I'll see how the e-brake is fairing. But what really is bothering me is the thumping noise now. I can EVER SO SLIGHTLY feel it. Do you think this is inclusive to the rear wheel bearing?

I checked the mkiv.com tech article and noticed that the hub can also be damaged? I guess the 19"s that were on the car could of done some damage

quick

· #6 · Sep 26, 2001

No problem. Stuff like this is fun to work out and fix.

The thumping you describe is CLASSIC bearing failure sounds. I bet that when you do the 'turn test' it will be a very pronounced sound. The reason that the thumping occurs is that the races or rollers get pitted and as the wheel rotates it repeatedly bashes against those uneven parts of the bearing... it's pretty cool $hit.

I've worked on wheel bearings, spindles, and hubs on semi trucks before (did some engineering intern $hit years ago) and never saw a hub damaged... we put tons (literally) on those hubs, spindles, etc, and the bearings almost always failed before the hubs. Often we'd have to nuke several sets of bearings before we'd break a hub.

I wouldn't sweat the hub. The bearing is the likely failure point. When the bearing is being replaced you can inspect the hub thoroughly. If it's messed up, I'd be suprised, and I'll join you in cursing the Supra gods.

Did you sell your 19s? What do you have on it now?

KGB Supra

· #7 · Sep 26, 2001

Allen,
I am not positive, but I believe that a simpler (and safer) test for determining if your bearings are faulty would be to put the car up on a lift.

Once it's up on the lift, try to 'shake' the wheel from left to right (side to side). If the bearings are good, you should not be any play in the wheel at all. That is, you should not be able to move it at all in this fashion.

A little safer than taking a high speed turn with a faulty wheel bearing, I would think.

No offense meant to you, quick.

Hope this helps,
KGB

chnco

Discussion Starter · #8 · Sep 26, 2001

Thanks for the advice Kelly!

Hopefully I'll get this taken care of by this weekend. Are you going on the DSM mountain run?

quick

· #9 · Sep 26, 2001

No sweat, but I virtually guarantee that you won't be able to make a determination with the test that you describe, KGB. Bearing failure only shows under load from what I know. I certainly could be wrong.

I've been driving on my bad rear bearings for 3000 miles with no problem. That includes many 120+ runs and several HARD launches. That also includes 4 140 mph runs and three to 155.

One I got airborne on... the wife was driving.

Bearings fail gradually, not catastrophically in my experience.

Also, speed-wise for the test I just took a SAFE 90 degree right at 35 mph... with the stereo off and the window down I could hear the rumble from the driver rear tire.

Hope that helps.
I'd be interested to hear if you know something about testing this stuff out that I'm ignorant of, KGB. I'm always interested in learning more.

KGB Supra

· #10 · Sep 26, 2001

Quick,
There's a reason why I prefaced my statement with "I'm not positive...".

I was mainly just relating some comments that I read in a previous thread on the subject. I do recall that the individuals who posted on that thread were people whose opinions I held pretty highly.

In truth though, you may be correct. It is quite possible that I am not recalling the 'gist' of the previous thread correctly. Regardless, I am simply relaying what someone else had to say on the subject.

I defer to your personal experience. It is, however, a test worth trying, I think.

Allen, give it a go and report what you find. That way, we can all benefit from your discovery.

It's all good.

K

quick said:
No sweat, but I virtually guarantee that you won't be able to make a determination with the test that you describe, KGB. Bearing failure only shows under load from what I know. I certainly could be wrong.

I've been driving on my bad rear bearings for 3000 miles with no problem. That includes many 120+ runs and several HARD launches. That also includes 4 140 mph runs and three to 155. One I got airborne on... the wife was driving.

Bearings fail gradually, not catastrophically in my experience.

Also, speed-wise for the test I just took a SAFE 90 degree right at 35 mph... with the stereo off and the window down I could hear the rumble from the driver rear tire.

Hope that helps.
I'd be interested to hear if you know something about testing this stuff out that I'm ignorant of, KGB. I'm always interested in learning more.

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quick

· #11 · Sep 26, 2001

KGB Supra said:
Quick,
There's a reason why I prefaced my statement with "I'm not positive...".

I was mainly just relating some comments that I read in a previous thread on the subject. I do recall that the individuals who posted on that thread were people whose opinions I held pretty highly.

In truth though, you may be correct. It is quite possible that I am not recalling the 'gist' of the previous thread correctly. Regardless, I am simply relaying what someone else had to say on the subject.

I defer to your personal experience. It is, however, a test worth trying, I think.

Allen, give it a go and report what you find. That way, we can all benefit from your discovery.

It's all good.
K

I totally agree, K. Do you have a link to that thread anywhere? I'd be interested in reading it.

Allen's tests should give us a more clear understanding of what's occuring, and perhaps we'll end up with a simpler way of diagnosing the problem than I described.

Regardless, I hope that the bearing replacement is cake... I need to do it in the next couple of weeks...

Rats.

yasir

· #12 · Sep 26, 2001

Chris i think Jeff watson is wrong in saying that 18" wheels would cause the wheel bearings to go bad. The reason is would all these cars that r going 18" size wheels b changing their wheel bearings in near future,i don't think so

Yes the 18" wheels or should i say any wheel,can cause this problem but not 'coz of the size rather 'coz of the offset. I might b wrong but it just doesn't make any sense since my stokers weighed 26 lbs/each but my 18" kinesis weighs 22-23lbs/each with the right offset. Howcould so many people b wrong in upgrading their wheels

and getting into bearing problems !!
Regards. Yasir

quick

· #13 · Sep 26, 2001

yasir said:
Chris i think Jeff watson is wrong in saying that 18" wheels would cause the wheel bearings to go bad. The reason is would all these cars that r going 18" size wheels b changing their wheel bearings in near future,i don't think so Yes the 18" wheels or should i say any wheel,can cause this problem but not 'coz of the size rather 'coz of the offset. I might b wrong but it just doesn't make any sense since my stokers weighed 26 lbs/each but my 18" kinesis weighs 22-23lbs/each with the right offset. Howcould so many people b wrong in upgrading their wheels and getting into bearing problems !!
Regards. Yasir

It's not really about size, but width from what I understand. When your contact patch is greater you're getting better traction but putting more pressure on the bearing assy. and whatnot.

Sorry to give you the wrong impression... it's the width of the wheel more than the height as I understand it.

My rears are 10.5" wide... aren't the stockers 9"?

G

· #14 · Sep 26, 2001

Interesting, um, when i take a left hand turn sometimes, the rear makes a loud thumb noise, you guys think it can be the wheel bearings? Also over 120mph, the car shakes like crazy, makes me wanan shit my pants almost, car has ~90k miles on it also.

2 RIP

quick

· #15 · Sep 27, 2001

2 RIP said:
Interesting, um, when i take a left hand turn sometimes, the rear makes a loud thumb noise, you guys think it can be the wheel bearings? Also over 120mph, the car shakes like crazy, makes me wanan shit my pants almost, car has ~90k miles on it also.

2 RIP

I'd do the following:
1) Get wheels balanced

...if that doesn't work...

2) Get alignment

...if that doesn't work...

3) Check your brakes including ebrake

...if that doesn't work...

4) Start to think bearings.

Hope that helps.

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G

· #16 · Sep 27, 2001

quick said:
I'd do the following:
1) Get wheels balanced

...if that doesn't work...

2) Get alignment

...if that doesn't work...

3) Check your brakes including ebrake

...if that doesn't work...

4) Start to think bearings.

Hope that helps.

1. didn't work
2 ditto
3. ditto
4. i'll be changing them soon.
5. thanks allot.

2 RIP

BLITZSUPRA

· #17 · Sep 27, 2001

Allen, I feel your pain. I think mine are starting to go. (63K miles). Do you notice the vibration is worse in the morning when the car is cold? Mine seems to mostly go away after several highway miles.

Mike Hughes

· #18 · Sep 27, 2001

Jack it up and wiggle!

Jack up the suspected corner of the car (or jack up the entire car, whatever)... and grab the wheel and shake/wiggle it as hard as you can.

If there's any play, your wheel bearings are bad.

I thought my bearings had gone bad for SURE, until I lifted my car and checked... nope. Wasn't the bearings...

2 new front tires and a quality alignment later, my car handles like it's on rails again. They were on the wear bars and were sliding all over the place.

G

· #19 · Sep 27, 2001

Because I take my car on the track, I inspect my wheel bearings often, like every few weeks. I found some play in my driver's side bearing with no noticible noise or change in handling quality.

The Big List had a few posts about how much of a PITA it is to pull the old bearings out and replace them. A local shop (my alignment place) wanted $180 in labor to replace the bearing. That was worth it for me!

quick

· #20 · Sep 27, 2001

Re: Jack it up and wiggle!

mfh said:
Jack up the suspected corner of the car (or jack up the entire car, whatever)... and grab the wheel and shake/wiggle it as hard as you can.

If there's any play, your wheel bearings are bad.

I thought my bearings had gone bad for SURE, until I lifted my car and checked... nope. Wasn't the bearings...

I have never heard of a test like this being accurate for diagnosing bearing problems. Where did you hear about this test, Mike? I'm really curious if there's something that I'm unaware of test-wise that I should take into consideration.

I'd appreciate any information you have.

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