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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this is going to sound like a very simple obvious question but i just want to double check with all of you experts. I cross referenced the numbers from my block with the ones on my crank to find out the bearing # I need for my rebuild from toyota. Well when i got them and set them in to plastigauge they there was more clearence than what was recomonded. So what im asking is I should just go to the bigger size bearing to tighten up and compensate my clearnce from the wear on the crank correct?


Sorry for the lame ass question

thanks guys
jake
 

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1.5JZ Turbo Supra
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I would assume that you had the crank checked first. If it was grinded then wouldn't you have to get bigger bearings. I'm not 100% sure but thats a toss up till someone more experienced can help
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yessir i did have the crank checked and it came out with in specs. It was not ground but had some light polishing done to it thats why i am curious why its not specking out like its hould and i did follow the exact torque pattern and specs.
 

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Everything wears done. The Crank is still within specs but is not the same diamater as when it was new. The bearing cap is still within specs but not the same as when they marked it with the #'s at the factory.

I just got the next size bearing and tested it with the plastiguage. All of mine had to have 1 size larger bearing and #4 main had to have 2 sizes larger. Lucky for me the #5 size was the largest I needed. Otherwise the caps would have to be cut and linebored.
 

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LEADED FUEL ONLY
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Wow.. no wonder we have all this rod knock going on. People, people, people. here's how to do it.

Have your mains line honed. This brings them back from being egg shaped, or perfectly round. Have your crank polished as well. Have the rods cut. This brings the big end back to round.

Once you get those back, buy a set of micrometers that read down to .0001. I bought a set for like $40 about 7 years ago. They came with standards and are good enough for what I am doing. Buy a bore guage so you can measure the bores that the bearings sit in.

Use the micrometer to measure the journals on the crank and use the TSRM to find where it falls in the toyota numbering system. Use the bore guage to measure the bores and find out where they fall into the toyota number system.

Order proper bearings and enjoy your toyota for 100K+ miles.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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aljordan said:
Wow.. no wonder we have all this rod knock going on. People, people, people. here's how to do it.

Have your mains line honed. This brings them back from being egg shaped, or perfectly round. Have your crank polished as well. Have the rods cut. This brings the big end back to round.

Once you get those back, buy a set of micrometers that read down to .0001. I bought a set for like $40 about 7 years ago. They came with standards and are good enough for what I am doing. Buy a bore guage so you can measure the bores that the bearings sit in.

Use the micrometer to measure the journals on the crank and use the TSRM to find where it falls in the toyota numbering system. Use the bore guage to measure the bores and find out where they fall into the toyota number system.

Order proper bearings and enjoy your toyota for 100K+ miles.

True dat Big Al, but how about getting the crank to a specialist and have it properly speeced for what it needs. I have found that taking the block and gettting it checked aong with the crank is the safest way to insure proper bering measurement.
 
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