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Don't do it. First off, you'll bias the front differently. The OEM TT calipers are a matched set, engineered for the perfect front/rear bias. And they are already 4-piston. I run OEM TT calipers, Carbotech XP10 pads (front and rear), Centric Premium solid rotors, stainless steel brake lines, and Castrol SRF racing brake fluid. My car stops with the hand of god, and it's "full interior", including custom subwoofer enclosure. I cannot imagine any "better" braking performance than what I have. With this setup, braking technique (non-optimal) is the only thing that can make braking performance suffer. How would you describe/characterize your braking technique?

Spend your money on the nut behind the wheel first.
Hey, any chance you have that part number for the brake rotors? I noticed a few different ones on RockAuto from centric.

Are the Carbotech good on the street? Their website says not to use it for anything but track use.
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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Hey, any chance you have that part number for the brake rotors? I noticed a few different ones on RockAuto from centric.
For a TT MkIV Supra:
  • Centric 120.44103 (Premium Brake Rotor), Front Left
  • Centric 120.44104 (Premium Brake Rotor), Front Right
  • Centric 120.44105 (Premium Brake Rotor), Rear (both sides identical)

Are the Carbotech good on the street? Their website says not to use it for anything but track use.
They have to say that..."off highway use only". The Carbotech XP10 pads are fine on the street. I don't swap them out between track weekends and street driving. They are dustier than stock, so they'll get your wheels dirty faster, especially the fronts.
 
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I second what was said above about XP10’s on the street. they’re fine to use, dust a lot, just may not be ideal for everyday use only since you wearing out pad life that you could save for track.

that being said I’ve used them on the street and noticed no negatives other than heavy dust.
 

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I second what was said above about XP10’s on the street. they’re fine to use, dust a lot, just may not be ideal for everyday use only since you wearing out pad life that you could save for track.

that being said I’ve used them on the street and noticed no negatives other than heavy dust.
For a TT MkIV Supra:
  • Centric 120.44103 (Premium Brake Rotor), Front Left
  • Centric 120.44104 (Premium Brake Rotor), Front Right
  • Centric 120.44105 (Premium Brake Rotor), Rear (both sides identical)



They have to say that..."off highway use only". The Carbotech XP10 pads are fine on the street. I don't swap them out between track weekends and street driving. They are dustier than stock, so they'll get your wheels dirty faster, especially the fronts.

Thank you guys. I am guessing EBC/Hawk pads then since I would do more recreational street driving than road course.
 

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I would do more recreational street driving than road course.
Stock pads then. Buy a set of XP10s to swap into if you go on the road course. You are not going to exceed the temperature range of stock pads on the street, unless you are Ken Block. Stock pads are 1/4 the price of good track pads, and no dust.

The ONLY reason I went from stock pads to XP10s is because my braking intensity & frequency on the track got so high that I was exceeding the temperature range of the stock pads and they were wearing down to the backing plates in one weekend.
 

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Stock pads then. Buy a set of XP10s to swap into if you go on the road course. You are not going to exceed the temperature range of stock pads on the street, unless you are Ken Block. Stock pads are 1/4 the price of good track pads, and no dust.

The ONLY reason I went from stock pads to XP10s is because my braking intensity & frequency on the track got so high that I was exceeding the temperature range of the stock pads and they were wearing down to the backing plates in one weekend.
Oh okay. Thank you good sir.

PM your way as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
So just over a month ago I was able to attend MVP's 2-day Track time at Mid-Ohio. While this was my 2nd event (3 and 4th days) I was hoping to pickup where I left off in 2019. Leading up to the weeks ahead I addressed some prior issues from the last track day along with adding some minor changes as well. Running with MVP was different than NORPCA group but that was kind of expected due to the circumstances we all are dealing with right now. Two days with (4) 30mins sessions per day definitely was even more exciting than the past event. Unlike the NORPCA event I only opted to do a lead-follow during 2 of the 8 sessions and took my chances on the remaining sessions by myself.

Between the last event and now these were the changes applied:

1. Raised the front end by 6mm due to rubbing in turn 7 last year
2. Used a more aggressive alignment per Greg C @ GSC.
3. Added TRD sways front and rear with poly bushings (non-adjustable)
4. New front OEM upper and lower control arms (tie rods and steering rack were new at rebuild)
5. New rear OEM trac links (Body to knuckle)

The 1st day it was cold and I knew the 1st session was going to be a bust. Unfortunately, an attendee in the novice group with C7 ZR1 looped it coming into Thunder Valley on the warm up lap. Not certain to what happened but I think there was too much on the skinny pedal along with the elevation change in that part of the track.

Each session went fairly well with some traffic here and there which could be helped with a run into the pits to get some room. The previous year I was successful reaching a 1:53.94 and couple 54s back-to-back. This year resulted in a lot of 53-55's and handful of 51-52's with my best being a 1:50.04. I was pretty certain I was able to get in the 40s on the 2nd day but Harry's lap timer was having issues during that session and didn't record. The car performed well but I did have some uneasy feeling in the brake pedal asI noticed it not a stiff as previously. This concern forced me to be not as aggressive in the braking zones as I wanted to be. I'm not sure if I introduced air during the bleeding procedure the days prior or if it related to the vented holes filling up with brake dust in the front rotors.

Other than the brake issue I did have a coupler blowing off at the last session of the 2nd day. This failure was my fault (TRD sway install) and was confirmed with the data logs showing the boost not hitting the target by 1-2psi during the latter sessions runs. Looking ahead, I'm ready for 2021 and hopefully can hit 2-3 events next year to further improve my skills. Between then now I'll be making some minor improvements that should assist and address the issue above ( 98 Brake master, Rear OEM control arms, MoTeC 10hz GPS, MoTeC M150 ECU upgrade, MoTeC C127 dash and solid yet vented Raybestos iSF rotors to replace the cross drilled variants).

2020 MVPTT MO Nov Blk Supra by Douglas Pelsor, on Flickr
2020 MVPTT MO Nov Blk Supra by Douglas Pelsor, on Flickr
2020 MVPTT MO Nov Blk Supra by Douglas Pelsor, on Flickr
2020 MVPTT MO Nov Blk Supra by Douglas Pelsor, on Flickr
2020 MVPTT MO Nov Blk Supra by Douglas Pelsor, on Flickr
2020 MVPTT MO Nov Blk Supra by Douglas Pelsor, on Flickr
 

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I did have some uneasy feeling in the brake pedal asI noticed it not a stiff as previously. This concern forced me to be not as aggressive in the braking zones as I wanted to be. I'm not sure if I introduced air during the bleeding procedure the days prior or if it related to the vented holes filling up with brake dust in the front rotors.
What brake fluid and what pads were you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #29

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^ Good combo. I've occasionally had the not-so-stiff pedal feel with my setup too. Sometimes it's a little air that forms from slight boiling of the brake fluid (even though I use Castrol SRF), and sometimes it seems to just be from really worn pads, which resolves itself with fresh pads.
 

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Doug,

What are your current alignment values and your impressions of them?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Sam,

Below is what I targeted and what I had to settle on due to the limit of the stock control arms:

Target
Front:
-Camber: -3 deg
-Caster : +4 deg
-Toe: 0


Rear:
-Camber: -2.4 deg
-Toe - 1/8"


Actual:
Front:
-Camber: -2.3 deg
-Caster: +5.5 deg
-Toe: 0


Rear:
-Camber: -2.4 deg
-Toe: 1/8"
 
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