I figured it out, how the tension pulley works finally. I couldn’t get it to work because I didn’t loosen the front bolt. Big time duh moment.A/C compressor drive belt? There's a bolt on the tensioner pulley that'll loosen the belt and it just comes off. Easiest belt to remove actually.
Absolutely. Link in my browser history via MK3 Facebook group post:Was that from the OEM catalog that I see on their site?
I totally agree that at some point the investment of time in a 30 year old car begins to not make sense. It’s either a labor of love or you need to move on and find a better way to spend your time. I knew when I bought my MKIII that it didn’t make the best financial sense but I do love to tinker on Supras for some reason and no one I know owns one, never mind two of them.^ Owww, this is nice having another resource for smaller hard to find parts, such as the moulding you got. My friend has been convincing me to not get another Mk.III since restoration parts are not plentiful. His thing is, can I pick up a restoration catalog and order what I need? He's got a point though, it's 30+ yr old car and stuff needs replacing, will eventually need replacing, or is just plain missing.
Which trim? The upper trim pries off very gently, the lower has 3 or 4 nuts that come off the back side and the edges have a clip that you have to pop out. The side trim can not be removed without destroying it.Does anyone know the procedure for removing the rear window trim? I tried to figure it out and one of the little metal clips fell off, but I didn’t get much further, it seems pretty tightly connected somehow?
It sounds like your A/C system isn't giving the signal to the clutch to kick on. IIRC it takes a signal from the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch to activate it, and the coolant temp switch is involved too. Could be a bad dual pressure switch or coolant temp switch.So I’ll clean that up and put it back on and keep troubleshooting to see where I went wrong.
My wife told me she wants a Range Rover and told her it wasn’t happening. I don’t know what sort of weird specific maintenance a Range Rover has but I told if she gets a British car with oddball maintenance requirements, she’s on her own. She wants to trade in her Infiniti JX of a tank motor for a Range Rover.Also for the trim, don't be surprised if the original clips were broken long ago and its actually glued on. I ran into this on mine recently. I forgot that years ago I had the windshield replaced and the clips were so bad I told the SafeLite guy to go ahead and just put a little extra sealing material on them to hold it in place. It worked perfectly but when I took them off to replace and refinish, I thought I was going to break them. All good though.
As for 30 year old cars, yes it's a labor of love. Has to be. I'm the only one of my friends from the 80s that has one, and none of them can believe I held on to mine this long!. I was fortunate to have garage/driveway space and live in the same place since 97.
Oh, and get this. I had a brand new RANGE ROVER tried to race me yesterday. Seriously, taunting me and everything. . I was like dude, I'm not ready to race you yet! lol. Fortune was on my side as an L.A. County sheriff was coming out of a neighborhood about a half mile ahead. Ahh...older and wiser.
I’m going to work more today on testing fans and relays. I saw the AC relay on rockauto last night browsing parts. I’m not sure all my electric fans work as they should. Thanks to you and @Dumeinao for tips on the trim.Which trim? The upper trim pries off very gently, the lower has 3 or 4 nuts that come off the back side and the edges have a clip that you have to pop out. The side trim can not be removed without destroying it.
It sounds like your A/C system isn't giving the signal to the clutch to kick on. IIRC it takes a signal from the dual pressure switch and the A/C switch to activate it, and the coolant temp switch is involved too. Could be a bad dual pressure switch or coolant temp switch.
Now would be the perfect time to go through the A/C system and replace the o-rings while you have it apart, and if you're going to R134a it's also the perfect time to replace the thermal expansion valve at the evap core, and the drier.