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Discussion Starter #221
I've had my trim in the garage for 10 years now. I need to install it. How do those corner 90 degree pieces come off?
on the top corner 90 degrees those are a part of the sides and held down by a single Phillips screw at top_ under_ the top trim piece. Top trim piece held on by metals clips, prys off, I used plastic benders from a vinyl wrap kit or body panels.

the bottom corners fit inside of the bottom trim piece and in a perfect planet the bottom trim piece and both side pieces are in stalled simultaneously. What you have to do is get you side alignment up/down correct on eac side before assembly and then assemble your side pieces from top down while working them into the bottom trim... while seating the bottom trim. It took we three tries, the black bottom trim studs will snap out of the trim if too much pressure, start over, reassemble from top down while working in the sides.

fun times
 

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90T
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Thanks for the detailed instructions. I've tried to understand the drawing of the trim clips in the TSRM but I get nowhere with them. Your instructions are very helpful. Fun indeed!

Looks like you tackled the wrong ball joint. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #223
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I've tried to understand the drawing of the trim clips in the TSRM but I get nowhere with them. Your instructions are very helpful. Fun indeed!

Looks like you tackled the wrong ball joint. :)
TSRM says separate the top ball joint but now that I’ve replaced the bottom joints I have no idea why you need to separate the top :🤷:

I’ve already removed the fender liners and dropped the washer reservoir and pulled the FUCAs out now.
 

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90T
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Yeah, its wrong. No need to touch the top ball joints. Just remove the long bolt and the arm is free as you have done. If you peel back the liner the bolt will slip under it, so you don't even need to remove the liner either.
 

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1987 Supra Turbo R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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I've had my trim in the garage for 10 years now. I need to install it. How do those corner 90 degree pieces come off?
Do you mean the rear corner pieces on a MK3? If so, the nuts that hold them on are directly under the tail lights. Take off the plastic inside trim to get to them. (center piece and at least enough of the corners to pull them inward.

I think its a 10mm deep well socket. Maybe smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter #226
Do you mean the rear corner pieces on a MK3? If so, the nuts that hold them on are directly under the tail lights. Take off the plastic inside trim to get to them. (center piece and at least enough of the corners to pull them inward.

I think its a 10mm deep well socket. Maybe smaller.
I think the question was about the black window trim around the rear glass. Sides fit inside the bottom trim like hot wheels track, top trim snaps on top of sides. Work your sides down while feeding into and seating the bottom trim.

The taillight nuts are M5 so 8mm. I know because I’ve had to replace a bunch of clapped out rusty M5 hardware

I couldn’t look at rusty calipers anymore
251600

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I think these turned out nifty af, maybe even swell.

Mevotech ball joint comparison

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And now we wait for more parts. I have the car booked for paint/body in two weeks, mostly to freshen up front bumper cover
 

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Discussion Starter #230
Yeah I caught the Hot Wheels reference as well! haha
I’m not a professional but I am the person in the family that gets called for every car problem, other than my electrical engineer bro in law that works in parts quality on one of the assembly lines at HMA (Honda Manufacturing of Alabama) up the road, he lives next door and he’s my go to if I can’t fix it.
 

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1987 Supra Turbo R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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I think quite a few people here are like that. There are some very knowledgeable guys that build at the racetrack level, and then folks of various backgrounds and inclinations.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
The upper control arms I ordered from rockauto do not fit. I do not know if they sent the correct part or not because there’s no PN on the part itself
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EBay and OEM are looking pri$$$$cey, so maybe the front upper ball joints just stay clickety clacketing down the road.

These were supposed to be mevotech cms9808 and cms9809 for reference. I have no previous experience with mevotech other than the lower ball joints and end links I just installed and the word I’d use to describe those is beefy. Box has a PN, bag the parts came in has a PN, part does not have PN :(

251643
 

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1987 Supra Turbo R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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Not even close. And this makes me regret not grabbing an extra set or two that I've seen on the half dozen cars I've found over the last 6 months.
 

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1987 Supra Turbo R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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Ahh and I just read the part of your thread that the upper ball joints are not serviceable so me grabbing original units would only be good to replace a damaged A arm itself, not improving the ball joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
Car is back on the road. Drove it to work today. Ended up replacing driver's side upper control arm with a new unit i found on eBay. For the Passenger side, a dude on Facebook sold me a used set of 92' upper control arms for $100. Vibration is gone but I am driving on an old staggered set of crusty 18's while I sort out the factory white package five stars.

I keep the Auto in ECT mode. Fun little car. AC blows cold. I need to post up some pictures of the dash and how incredibly fucked it is. It's like someone spray painted the lower half black and then half-ass glued new fake leather on the upper half. The dash mat is a must.

Power steering pisses fluid on my shop floor. Should've left the forbidden dirt cake alone under the car.
 

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1987 Supra Turbo R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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"forbidden dirt cake" :ROFLMAO: Still leaking?

Take a picture of the dash!
 

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1987 Supra Turbo R154 Pearl White, Blue Velour
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Ok now THAT looks bad. Its almost like they glued the dash down with something that ate or warped the cover. It reminds me of when I tried to glue a bunch of weights into the nose of model plane when I was a kid. It melted the nose into a distorted shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
Ok now THAT looks bad. Its almost like they glued the dash down with something that ate or warped the cover. It reminds me of when I tried to glue a bunch of weights into the nose of model plane when I was a kid. It melted the nose into a distorted shape.
These are the best pics I have but yes it's really bad. The dash is black and I don't believe it is supposed to be black. It's like some sort of half-assed flocking/leather/glue/paint job. The only parts I have out for delivery right now is Driver A-Pillar trim and Driver door card. I've got a blue dash I can pick up in Atlanta for $175 but it's got cracks in it.
 
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