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Discussion Starter #503
Yep, I reckon you got the wrong part there my friend. Looks nice, but obviously not correct... so, totally on brand haha.

What do you mean by "cross post more"? I'm a bit behind the lingo at times haha.

Please, for the love of all that is holy, please please please replace that radiator hose yesterday. Figure out a time machine and go back and take care of that. ;)


Heh... ouch. I think this concise post tells us everything we need to know, eh?
@te72 cross post more probably autocorrect fail reference at that other thread about Retro Spec where I said I was ordering from them and I think you were the last to wish me luck. Here that's the result lol. They asked me if I had any use for it and I said no I don't think so. Now they are saying they will send me a return label and they have run of wiper cowls coming out of production soon. Who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter #504
Bumper back off, beefing up intercooler mounting with aluminum stock as opposed to

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@Le Skid send me your address in a PM. I mistakenly ordered trunk shocks 3x lol. Sending them back costs half as much as they cost me. Me and the seller have agreed to a 50% refund. I'll ship you a pair.
Check your PMs and let me know how much we're talking about. I just put the car away in storage for the winter so there's no hurry.
 

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Ahh, I gotcha. Good luck in sorting out the Retrospec puzzle.

Highly, highly, highly recommend you maintain or fabricate as much ducting as necessary to make sure air can't go around your heat exchangers. These cars all generate a LOT of heat, and if you let the air be lazy and not work for you, it can be a real bummer, if at least more stressful than it should be.
 
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Discussion Starter #507
It’s not pretty at the moment

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but it barely hangs down and I think I can keep the oil super cool at the bottom like this

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Really beefed up all the intercooler and oil cooler mounting with aluminum bar stock
 

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Discussion Starter #508
Oh yeah with the BOV recirculating I’m pretty sure I hit boost cut or fuel cut or something twice now on a heavy pull. It’s like boom it shuts off for 10 secs and gives a check engine light then resets, so yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter #509
Coolant overflow tank upgrade
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Did the mishimoto 155F thermostat, ordered Mishimoto silicon hoses in black for the car. Have not received yet but I have spare rad hose and put it on too in the meantime

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And I gave this sensor a new home by baby Yoda and it fits nicely there.
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I’m waiting on oil lines, the 6AN lines I ordered aren’t big enough. The 6AN lines Amazon shipped me do not fit factory oil cooler barb. I ordered some 8AN line we’ll see soon.

I’ve fabbed everything out of 1/4 aluminum stock from Home Depot but I t’s fairly rigid so I added another mounting bracket between the intercooler and chassis 👍

it’s really just a crossbar running between the lower intercooler supports but it gets the job done. I’m filing down rough edges at this point just waiting
 

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Discussion Starter #510
I really sent that rear hatch seal back to Elmhurst via eBay because it was torn because they told me to and they have really kept half of my money after I ordered the part from them again. It’s being disputed wish me luck!

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Discussion Starter #511
Intercooler and oil cooler seem to have found permanent homes. Elmhurst took care of me and I have installed my rear hatch seal.

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Although it looks like the oil cooler touches the intercooler I have the tiniest air gap in between them.

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I did basically leave all stock hard lines in place and I utilized them to get the best flow from the cooler. Sorry no AN goodness here. Just new oil lines and all stainless worm clamps. I mocked it up with 3/8 fuel line via Tractor Supply and I liked theoil pressure I was seeing so I finished it with some braided 8AN similar to OEM.

Got my Mishimoto thermostat and silicon upper hose. Not sure when I feel motivated enough to do lower hose

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Don't worry about motivation to replace the lower rad hose, when it fails you'll be plenty motivated! :p

On the oil cooler, I routed mine with the inlet and outlet facing upward, to prevent air bubbles from being a possibility. Haven't seen a stock oil cooler in some time, so not sure if this is possible or not with that one.

As far as your upgraded coolant catch can, please tell me that isn't a used bottle of Royal Purple... coolant and oil mixed form a rather nasty acid. Granted, it shouldn't eat through the bottle, but if such an acid were pulled into your cooling system, it might cause some damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #513 (Edited)
Don't worry about motivation to replace the lower rad hose, when it fails you'll be plenty motivated! :p

On the oil cooler, I routed mine with the inlet and outlet facing upward, to prevent air bubbles from being a possibility. Haven't seen a stock oil cooler in some time, so not sure if this is possible or not with that one.

As far as your upgraded coolant catch can, please tell me that isn't a used bottle of Royal Purple... coolant and oil mixed form a rather nasty acid. Granted, it shouldn't eat through the bottle, but if such an acid were pulled into your cooling system, it might cause some damage.
I just don’t feel motivated to drain the cooling system for 4th time this year right now, lower radiator hose totes important tho, will get to it

Purple bottle is Aussie shampoo bottle we had leftover I scavenged from the bathroom @te72 bro cmon man I rinsed it out first 😂😂😂😂 it’s legit

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Discussion Starter #514
Roll tide

Soooo it turns out my OEM coolant overflow will kinda fit fine in OEM location, so working on finalizing paint and prep on that

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a lot of filing down rough edges

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sway bar urethane

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pretty sure front main is leaking

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baby Yoda got clearcoated and the intercooler piping over turbo/hot side is all gold foil wrapped

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changing struts now

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There is a thread on here about restoration of that coolant bottle. I think it was peroxide and uv sunlight brings it back new. But why do that when you could wrap it with that appolo 13 heat shield (gold) material.
 

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Discussion Starter #516
There is a thread on here about restoration of that coolant bottle. I think it was peroxide and uv sunlight brings it back new. But why do that when you could wrap it with that appolo 13 heat shield (gold) material.
😂😂😂😂 gold duct tape 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

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Oh, all the oil seals can eventually drip out that weep hole. I'd pry the top cover off and make sure it's not getting on the timing belt and wizzing around everywhere.

Also with more boost ....and the pcv venting hoses not right you can pop out the front main and or oil pump seals. Ask me how I know hahah
 

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Discussion Starter #518
Oh, all the oil seals can eventually drip out that weep hole. I'd pry the top cover off and make sure it's not getting on the timing belt and wizzing around everywhere.

Also with more boost ....and the pcv venting hoses not right you can pop out the front main and or oil pump seals. Ask me how I know hahah
I don’t think I’ve run it under any boost situation without any hoses especially PCV connected properly but blowing out seals sounds right up my alley considering how I’ve minorly abused this motor. It’s been fun so far though

Edit: I’ll add that I wiped down and degreased the area as much as possible to monitor it, especially the weep

I really should open up the top end of this motor😈😺
 

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Discussion Starter #519 (Edited)
That line runs to the metal vacuum line boondoggle under the intake manifold (red circle) and ultimately connects to the elbow on the front of the intake manifold (blue circle). It's also the proper place to attach the BOV vacuum line to.
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Can be fixed by adding a small shim to the internal BOV spring, or properly fixed by installing the recirculating fitting. I've done both, and with the shimming you have to be careful no to shim too much.


It's the connector for the coil packs and CPS.


I have the Toyota and Sumitomo part numbers for that connector at home, but they use the same exact terminals as every other MT 090 series sealed connector.


The keying on the standard 4p connectors is different than the keying on the CPS/coil pack connectors. Found that one out the hard way. Compare the center key to the one pham posted.
The standard 4p:
@Captain do you mind expounding on this subject perhaps with links. The connectors I ordered from corsa are not correct because I wasn’t paying attention. I seem to be able to locate 2-pin sumitomo MT-09(0) connectors mostly, not 4 pin 😔

edit: maybe. 4 Pin 6180-4771 6188-0004 MT090
 

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On the oil cooler, I routed mine with the inlet and outlet facing upward, to prevent air bubbles from being a possibility. Haven't seen a stock oil cooler in some time, so not sure if this is possible or not with that one.
^^^^^ This is correct, the way you have it mounted currently may result in an air pocket forming at the top of the cooler, blocking one or more oil passages. Typically you want both inlet and outlet on top or the inlet on the bottom if vertically mounted.

pretty sure front main is leaking
There also appears to be a decent amount of leakage from above too, likely the cam covers or cam seals.

do you mind expounding on this subject perhaps with links. The connectors I ordered from corsa are not correct because I wasn’t paying attention. I seem to be able to locate 2-pin sumitomo MT-09(0) connectors mostly, not 4 pin
Sumitomo part number for the female housing is 6180-4593, good luck finding it though. At this point any of those on the market are going to be aftermarket (read: chinese copies) and not have the same fit as OEM. The center tab design on the aftermarket connectors is a bit different than OEM and has some slop to it when connected to an OEM connector.

The easy solution to this would be to buy a pair of regular MT090 connectors without the mounting tab as there isn't a mount for that connector handy. If you ordered the regular MT090 female from Corsa as I suspect, you'll want the male side MT-4P-1.

The terminals are the exact same terminals so you can just de-pin the connector and swap the new connector in without cutting and recrimping the terminals on the current male connector you have.

edit: maybe. 4 Pin 6180-4771 6188-0004 MT090
Sumitomo says 6180-4771 is a female 6 pin connector and 6188-0004 is a 4 pin male, but not the 4 pin male you have.
 
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