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Discussion Starter #41
I understand preventative maintenance, but based on this, and a "recent" headgasket job by toyota:

Perform a compression/leakdown test
Fix all leaks (fluids, boost/vacuum)
Ensure you have proper oil pressure
Replace fluids, worn belts/hoses, etc.
Enjoy, and then look into basic mods as your knowledge progresses.
Easiest and most noticeable mod is a free-flowing exhaust.

The right way to do it is of course pulling the engine and completely rebuilding/refreshing it, but it seems like you're not at that point. If you don't have the knowledge, you could end up spending all the money to rebuild it and end up worse off than you started. The same goes with using a mechanic unfamiliar with the 7M. If the engine checks good, there's no point rebuilding for ~300 hp goals. Enjoy the car, don't beat on it like it's unbreakable, and like many have said before, keep a close eye on oil pressure and coolant temp.

Good info



You guys school me... I'm looking at down pipes. Do down pipes typically have the turbo elbow?

Some do, some don't?

All the same?

I was advised the one I was looking at didn't replace the "most restrictive part" which was the turbo elbow. Is this correct?
 

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the 90 elbow, and then the next part, the cat are huge restrictions (stock is 2 piece)

most aftermarket are one continuous mandrel bent piece. w/o cat of course...

some are called ddp (divorced = wg has its own path/tube that joins back into exh or dumps out, either or)

I would say the entire exhaust (oem) is restrictive and needs to go :)

even cheepo 3" ebay stainless is a massive upgrade over stock so long as its 3" from turbo outlet to tailpipe
 

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Discussion Starter #43
most aftermarket are one continuous mandrel bent piece. w/o cat of course...

Noted & thanks. I understand now. I assumed a "downpipe" would be turbo outlet on by default.

I got all of the intake assembly off, man its pretty nasty down below to be honest...a lot to clean up. A lot of room for improvement. Found many vacuum hoses that look like pure garbage, one i am almost certain was not maintaining connection. Likely going to replace all vacuum hoses just to do it.

Was trying to figure out what this hose circled was called for reorder purposes?...any input? (the end was cracked up pretty bad)


242983


Also a note... I havent received my apexi intake yet, but looking at the stock airbox.... I probably jumped the gun on that decision if the apexi works how I think it works. The stock air box having that front "arm" that reaches out into the bumper

Bumper Air > engine compartment air

Right? Kinda screaming thats the route to take after seeing it.

I'm going to try and exchange for just a drop filter in and play with the thought of fog light duct to air box duct while everything is apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
The farther I go I'm finding more and more hoses that are "must replace" (terrible condition)

Going to order one of the 26 PC silicon kits and hopefully only have to get what few hoses don't fit/aren't included

Fingers crossed the fit is close on the silicon kit. Read a lot of people have used them, outlook seems to be - "for the money, not a bad deal"
 

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The hose you have circled looks like it comes off of the idle up valve on the back of the powersteering pump and it goes to the lower rubber intake pipe (between the turbo and afm). I recommend you go to your local autoparts store and they should sell that size vacuum hose by the foot. You should also inspect the other vacuum hose that comes off of that idle up valve for cracks since you are there.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
243089


that little harness has been abused over time. I wasnt sure exactly how to remove it either. I unplugged everything I could on the passenger side but it still had one sleeve of wires that appeared to wrap down the block.

So much electrical tape has been applied its concerning. Makes me wonder what surprises may lay ahead :|

At any rate, progress.

I'm pretty pumped to see if I recover any boost since I've found so many split lines. The gauge isnt super clear on which indication is what, but it never got past what looks like 4 PSI on the factory gauge.

Wont be able to go much farther until the hose kit comes in. Going to clean up the factory hardpiping/3000 pipe & valve covers during the wait.
 

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Toyota did use electrical tape throughout the whole harness, heck I had a small mountain after I took apart a whole engine harness.



On the passenger side of the motor you only have the single wire for the oil pressure sender which is the only wire that will run past the thermostat housing in that area.

On that plastic cover, do you plan on running the original black turbo plastic cover on top of the motor/ coil pack? If not what looks cleaner is if you run a braided sleeve with two hose retainer clamps that mount on top the valve covers on the screws that is already there. Here is how I did mine if you go that route:

 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
That does look substantially cleaner.

I won't be running that plastic trim, so I'll likely do some cosmetics like displayed above.

Good tip
 

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Why do some of the 7m(like mine) run the timing belts way at the back side of the gear? I see yours is kinda in the middle. No matter what I do it always stays at the rear.


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Either something isn't aligned correctly, or the more common reason,
the bottom pulley is coming apart....
Bottom pulley is the only one with belt guides, and they have known to separate from the toothed pulley.
If the belt isn't rubbing anything, it just may be a little bit of stacking of tolerances, being a mass produced engine, or maybe the head was machined sometime in the past by a shop used to working on 'merican V8 garbage...
 

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Why do some of the 7m(like mine) run the timing belts way at the back side of the gear? I see yours is kinda in the middle. No matter what I do it always stays at the rear.


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I would inspect the lower timing belt gear on the crankshaft. Like sixpack said there is two guides on each side of that gear and if one guide is off it could affect your timing belt alignment. How old is your timing belt?
 

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Oh yeah - I did check that last year and the guide is there. I would guess about 10 years old - with about 4K miles on it. Very low mileage car


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Don’t wanna jack the thread. Carry on with the original topic!

Mirror looks good without that old scrap piled on it


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I'm pretty pumped to see if I recover any boost since I've found so many split lines. The gauge isnt super clear on which indication is what, but it never got past what looks like 4 PSI on the factory gauge.
At one point I had a quality aftermarket boost gauge installed with the OEM still hooked up and the stock gauge read ~4psi low through the whole boost range. I don't know if it's age related or just Toyota only intended it as sort of a reference but I'd recommend teeing in a good mechanical gauge to see what it shows.

You may or may not pick up boost but fixing all the vacuum and boost leaks will make the car run better.

Oh yeah - I did check that last year and the guide is there. I would guess about 10 years old - with about 4K miles on it. Very low mileage car


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Sounds like tolerance stacking as Sixpack mentioned. Once upon a time I had a stack of shims that would fit between where the timing pulley butted up against the crank but that induced its own problems with belt alignment on the damper. As long as the guides are in place and the belt isn't overhanging the cam gears or oil pump drive gear and not rubbing on anything your fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
The more I look at this the more I like it.

The braided sleeves, is that the same stuff you'd use on PC wires?


Another update:

After further thought/discussion after the realization that I have to remove the cams to tighten the head bolts, why would I not go ahead and change the head gasket after all that work?

Doesnt make much sense not to change it and KNOW what I have while i'm most of the way there. I dont mind wrenching, but messing with cams and whatnot will be a 100% new experience for me.

So, I see where some of the guys in the first page were coming from now. If I had experience it may be easier to pull, work, replace than doing the work inside the bay like I am doing.

At any rate...learning experience, project has already grown more than I anticipated in original scope.
 

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If you do this, you need new bolts (or ARP studs), as I understand it.

Be prepared though for what you may find, sometimes it is better not to know what lies beneath, lol.
 

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The more I look at this the more I like it.

The braided sleeves, is that the same stuff you'd use on PC wires?
It is probably similar to that. I used this size but I am also running less wires in that section and did two different braided sections when I made that harness:


You might want to look into a 3/8" braided loom with a split for easy installation over the existing wiring:

 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
So an EGT probe, I read to install it on cyl 6 exhaust runner tube. If I plan on adding the coolant "port" with the head off (Zulu mod, I think it's called), would it still be recommended for cyl 6 or put it where it will read the temp going into the turbo?


EDIT:

The more I read the more back and fourth on if this is worth doing. Going to read on it a bit more before I commit to Zulu
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
I was incorrect in my statement above about having to remove the camshafts to remove the head; after watching a few videos it appears cam removal is unnecessary , but pushing forward with it anyway since I'm here. 🤣

Found my exhaust cam was off half a tooth on the markings with the cam pulley, the intake cam was dead nuts, crank pulley was at 0. Not sure if this is anything of concern, was very close- just not "perfect"
 

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Follow the TSRM and you can't go wrong (other than the obvious headbolt torque specs). If you had used it, you would've known you don't need to remove the cams to torque the head bolts:

Use torque specs, you really don't want to break anything internally.
EX: Camshaft bearing caps only need 14 ft-lb, they're easy to break just using a ratchet.

Make sure you use some FIPG ("seal packing") where noted when putting the valve covers back on, or you'll be leaking:
 
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