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450hp at 13psi is better that I'd have expected for that much boost, even on E85.
First things first is fix your wastegate situation. What exhaust manifold and what wastegate do you have? How big is your downpipe and midpipe? What intercooler kit do you have? What fuel system changes have you made?
A crappy exhaust manifold can cause backpressure issues and garbage wastegates often cause problems too. Go name brand on wastegates, all the time and every time, and source them from a reputable speed shop not amazon or any of that crap because of the number of fakes out there.
An old school/cheap/conventional 3in downpipe & midpipe will support a lot more than your current HP level, but going to 3.5in or 4in on the downpipe especially makes a huge difference for improved spool and more power pretty much everywhere. 3in DP's start limiting power around 500-600hp and it's a serious restriction above 750 (I've seen 60-80whp improvements going from 3in to 4in at that level) so if you're aiming for 900whp+ I'd consider a 4in downpipe & midpipe a necessity. You can neck it back down to 3 or 3.5in for the catback and still gain a ton of flow improvement overall, it doesn't need to be straight 4in. But if you decide to regularly run 1000+ someday I'd go straight 4in and accept the noise and ground clearance issues as part of having a 1000whp+ car.
There's a lot of just straight-up garbage chinese IC's out there that end up on Supras because they're 'good enough'. They often aren't. For your targeted HP goal I'd recommend a quality IC from GReddy, Treadstone, ETS, etc with 3in IC piping on both sides, and a 4in thick core.
ID1050X's (they don't make a ID1030 so I'm assuming you meant 1050X's because they're popular) will support around 600-650whp max with a single hellcat pump on E85. Did you change the feed line from the pump to the feed side of the rail? What about the stock pulsation damper and fuel filter? If you have an aftermarket fuel filter in AN lines, which filter did you get, and is it E85 compatible?
If you want 900whp on E85 you'll need ID1300X's at the bare minimum and that's if you run a ton of fuel pump at high fuel pressures. ID1700X's would be good future proofing.
Overall troubleshooting recommendations-
-Solve the WG issue. If your wastegate is a chinese knockoff, just remove it and put googly eyes on it and set it on your shelf. Name it Carl and blame it for everything that goes wrong on your car. Or throw it away. Or shoot it out of a cannon. Or yeet it into some idiot's face in a parking lot fight and make viral news with car dudes because someone's face got broken with a wastegate. Just don't leave it installed on your car.
-Once you've got a quality wastegate(or already have it) identify the spring pressure at which it opens, ensure that your boost controller is properly connected to that wastegate and you've got correct boost references. On a simple single line WG install, the vacuum line should go Turbo Compressor cover -> boost control solenoid -> Lower port in an external WG. Generally speaking, that configuration should be good for about 2x the WG spring's set pressure using a boost controller. Meaning if you've got a 14 psi spring in the WG, no EBC at all will get 14psi of boost, and maxing out the EBC will see ~26-28psi max boost. So choose a spring carefully based on the 'boost window' you want between low boost and max boost. Also note that as WG's get bigger, that 'boost window' will shrink as the larger WG valve area means it takes less exhaust backpressure to push it open against a given spring. So 60mm WG's are not always better, and on most 60mm setups the 'boost window' is closer to 1.6-1.8x the WG spring.
Using advanced EBC setups like a 3-port or 4-port actuator controlled by the ECU can get you better overall control and higher stable boost pressures on a given WG spring. But that takes more configuration and setup and that's for folks doing 'full send' which you don't need right now - you need to get your car to where it's making ~500whp on pump gas at about 18psi, where it should be.
-Fuel lines. If it's a fuel line issue restricting fuel flow, get that sorted immediately. If you have a hellcat pump running on the stock feed and return lines, yes, that's a restriction. I would strongly recommend going to a -6AN feed line from the pump straight into the fuel rail, using a staged -6AN filter set under the car. Run them so the fuel pump feeds directly into a 100 micron filter first, then have a 10 micron after the 100 micron filter. Make sure they're 100% E85 compatible. Bypass the stock filter and feed line entirely. You should be able to continue with the stock return line for now on the single pump, but if you have excess fuel pressure at idle that can't be controlled, you can use the stock feed line as a return with a few fittings. Eliminate the stock fuel filter from the feed line if you do that, of course.
-Check the Intercooler and all the IC piping for boost leaks and other issues. If it's a cheap chinese IC just keep it for now, but ensure you have zero boost leaks.
If you hadn't bought an Elite 2500, I'd say go back to the dyno with the AEM V2 at this point.
But since you did buy an Elite 2500, now's the time to get the patch harness you need (I'm sure one exists that can be used or altered to work just fine) and get the 2500 set up properly so it's ready for tuning. Then get it re-tuned at this level targeting pump gas and driveability only, which should be around 500whp maybe a bit more with an S366, especially if you have cams & a 4in downpipe and a quality intake manifold.
Beyond that, start addressing the downpipe/midpipe, intercooler, and bigger injectors & additional pumps recommended so you can go full flex fuel or dedicated E85 and target 800-900whp safely.
First things first is fix your wastegate situation. What exhaust manifold and what wastegate do you have? How big is your downpipe and midpipe? What intercooler kit do you have? What fuel system changes have you made?
A crappy exhaust manifold can cause backpressure issues and garbage wastegates often cause problems too. Go name brand on wastegates, all the time and every time, and source them from a reputable speed shop not amazon or any of that crap because of the number of fakes out there.
An old school/cheap/conventional 3in downpipe & midpipe will support a lot more than your current HP level, but going to 3.5in or 4in on the downpipe especially makes a huge difference for improved spool and more power pretty much everywhere. 3in DP's start limiting power around 500-600hp and it's a serious restriction above 750 (I've seen 60-80whp improvements going from 3in to 4in at that level) so if you're aiming for 900whp+ I'd consider a 4in downpipe & midpipe a necessity. You can neck it back down to 3 or 3.5in for the catback and still gain a ton of flow improvement overall, it doesn't need to be straight 4in. But if you decide to regularly run 1000+ someday I'd go straight 4in and accept the noise and ground clearance issues as part of having a 1000whp+ car.
There's a lot of just straight-up garbage chinese IC's out there that end up on Supras because they're 'good enough'. They often aren't. For your targeted HP goal I'd recommend a quality IC from GReddy, Treadstone, ETS, etc with 3in IC piping on both sides, and a 4in thick core.
ID1050X's (they don't make a ID1030 so I'm assuming you meant 1050X's because they're popular) will support around 600-650whp max with a single hellcat pump on E85. Did you change the feed line from the pump to the feed side of the rail? What about the stock pulsation damper and fuel filter? If you have an aftermarket fuel filter in AN lines, which filter did you get, and is it E85 compatible?
If you want 900whp on E85 you'll need ID1300X's at the bare minimum and that's if you run a ton of fuel pump at high fuel pressures. ID1700X's would be good future proofing.
Overall troubleshooting recommendations-
-Solve the WG issue. If your wastegate is a chinese knockoff, just remove it and put googly eyes on it and set it on your shelf. Name it Carl and blame it for everything that goes wrong on your car. Or throw it away. Or shoot it out of a cannon. Or yeet it into some idiot's face in a parking lot fight and make viral news with car dudes because someone's face got broken with a wastegate. Just don't leave it installed on your car.
-Once you've got a quality wastegate(or already have it) identify the spring pressure at which it opens, ensure that your boost controller is properly connected to that wastegate and you've got correct boost references. On a simple single line WG install, the vacuum line should go Turbo Compressor cover -> boost control solenoid -> Lower port in an external WG. Generally speaking, that configuration should be good for about 2x the WG spring's set pressure using a boost controller. Meaning if you've got a 14 psi spring in the WG, no EBC at all will get 14psi of boost, and maxing out the EBC will see ~26-28psi max boost. So choose a spring carefully based on the 'boost window' you want between low boost and max boost. Also note that as WG's get bigger, that 'boost window' will shrink as the larger WG valve area means it takes less exhaust backpressure to push it open against a given spring. So 60mm WG's are not always better, and on most 60mm setups the 'boost window' is closer to 1.6-1.8x the WG spring.
Using advanced EBC setups like a 3-port or 4-port actuator controlled by the ECU can get you better overall control and higher stable boost pressures on a given WG spring. But that takes more configuration and setup and that's for folks doing 'full send' which you don't need right now - you need to get your car to where it's making ~500whp on pump gas at about 18psi, where it should be.
-Fuel lines. If it's a fuel line issue restricting fuel flow, get that sorted immediately. If you have a hellcat pump running on the stock feed and return lines, yes, that's a restriction. I would strongly recommend going to a -6AN feed line from the pump straight into the fuel rail, using a staged -6AN filter set under the car. Run them so the fuel pump feeds directly into a 100 micron filter first, then have a 10 micron after the 100 micron filter. Make sure they're 100% E85 compatible. Bypass the stock filter and feed line entirely. You should be able to continue with the stock return line for now on the single pump, but if you have excess fuel pressure at idle that can't be controlled, you can use the stock feed line as a return with a few fittings. Eliminate the stock fuel filter from the feed line if you do that, of course.
-Check the Intercooler and all the IC piping for boost leaks and other issues. If it's a cheap chinese IC just keep it for now, but ensure you have zero boost leaks.
If you hadn't bought an Elite 2500, I'd say go back to the dyno with the AEM V2 at this point.
But since you did buy an Elite 2500, now's the time to get the patch harness you need (I'm sure one exists that can be used or altered to work just fine) and get the 2500 set up properly so it's ready for tuning. Then get it re-tuned at this level targeting pump gas and driveability only, which should be around 500whp maybe a bit more with an S366, especially if you have cams & a 4in downpipe and a quality intake manifold.
Beyond that, start addressing the downpipe/midpipe, intercooler, and bigger injectors & additional pumps recommended so you can go full flex fuel or dedicated E85 and target 800-900whp safely.
