Supra Forums banner

21 - 40 of 62 Posts
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Is there a "gain" controller on your boost controller? I remember the Blitz dsbc had one, but you could turn that down to see if it helps, but I would lose some of the "t's" and see if that helps. You can hook the boost guage up to the FPR. Nice thing is the manuals are pretty cheap.
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
couple other quick things,
zip tie all hose connections
use the thinnest, shortest hose possible
Some boost controllers need to the solinoids to be mounted horizontally

hope some of this helps :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I've got a couple of questions?

Do you guys with SP57's get a LOT of wastgate flutter? Wupwupwupwup sound? when letting off the gas under boost.

Also I have an HKS EVC IV and can't seem to boost over 1 bar. Any suggestions. can someone verify how the vacuum lines are hooked up.

And last but not least, I thought loosening the screw on the wastegate would loosen the wastegete not tighten it? ie scrweing it out. Which is it?

Thanks
Josh
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
if it happens when you let off the gas then maybe loosen up the BOV a bit, sounds like backpressure on the turbo.

I have the EZ and it goes like so:

from a t in the line to the BOV, a hose attaches to the inlet on the left side of the HKS solinoid unit, (holding it right side up, looking straight at the 3 inlets)

A hose from the intercooler pipe(boost source) goes to a t then to the right side of the HKS box and to the side of the wastegate

A hose then goes from the middle inlet on the HKS box to the top of the wastegate

I believe it you tighten the bolt you tighten the spring inside.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Kind of helps:)
I don't understand the first part of you instructions

********from a t in the line to the BOV, a hose attaches to the inlet on the left side of the HKS solinoid unit, (holding it right side up, looking straight at the 3 inlets) ********

Are you saying you have you the BOV t'd with something else and it goes to the left side of the solinoid?
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Sorry about that :) The line that goes to the BOV, I cut it, and inserted a T and ran the extra hose to the left side of the box. So the 2 lines coming off the T 1) connects to the BOV and 2) the Boost controller box

any better? :)

which reminds me, I believe there are 2 outlets on the BOV? (at least on mine) make sure it is in the right one :)
 

·
GA Rocks!
Joined
·
1,094 Posts
PMD said:
Is there a "gain" controller on your boost controller? I remember the Blitz dsbc had one, but you could turn that down to see if it helps, but I would lose some of the "t's" and see if that helps. You can hook the boost guage up to the FPR. Nice thing is the manuals are pretty cheap.
PMD- please tell me you aren't t-ing the line off the FPR? Every direction i have ever read stated not too ever touch the line off the FPR...
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Sorry, I thought was, but I "t'd" off the BOV line instead. I remember reading something about that being bad too.
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
4,014 Posts
Keller said:
I've got a couple of questions?

Do you guys with SP57's get a LOT of wastgate flutter? Wupwupwupwup sound? when letting off the gas under boost.

That sounds more like your BOV isn't venting properly, allowing pressure to back up into the compressor of the turbo. If it is, it is bad for the life of your turbo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
We spent the whole afternoon and evening trying to solve the problem with the boost not staying steady at high levels.

First we routed the BOV vacuum hose directly to the stock BOV vacuum nipple without any T's.
Then we made a vacuum nipple in the EGR block off plate so we could connect the water injection pressure sensor.
Then we made a nipple on the intercooler pipe right after the turbo and connected that to the wastegate and boost controller with a T.
After testing we still had the boost bouncing at 1.5 bar.

We then tightened the wastegate but this did not help either.

After speaking to Larry at SP who thought it might be the BOV venting we screwed the BOV adjustment tighter and ran with no hoses connected to the wastegate so no boost control whatsoever! The BOV stayed closed at boosting but the intercooler hose popped up so we are sure the BOV is not leaking.

We then connected everything back and tested with the boost controller set to OFF. This gave a maximum boost of about 0.9 bar which according to Larry is normal.

After another call with Larry at SP he suggested it might be a misfire and the more we think about it the more it seems that might be the problem. It sounds like a misfire and I am running stock plugs with stock gapping.

We are now going to fit NGK 3330 plugs gapped at 0.028". Are the NGK a good plug for a single turbo setup or should I get HKS Iridiums which someone else suggested. It was also suggested that a HKS HDI (some sort of spark ampflifier) is recommended at high boost levels. Does anyone have experience with this?

Flavio
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
WOW you were at stock plug gap?? Oh man that has to be it, I have been running the NGKs gapped to .032 and have been fine, I tried lowering to .028 with no apparent difference, but I do not run crazy boost. I stay below 1.5

I hope this is it!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Okay guys and gals,

I changed my plugs this evening to NGK's 3330, gapped at 0.028". Problem is solved now, boosting up to 2 bar is no problem (I haven't dared to go any higher yet) and the engine runs smoother as well. Exhaust gas temp is lower as well.

I still am going to fit an ignition amplifier (probably B&M) to increase the lifespan of the plugs.

Hopefully I'll be able to go to the dyno again next week and then I'll do some runs at various boost levels.

One thing that is a little strange is that sometimes boost won't go over 1 bar no matte what I do. If I lift off the throttle and try again it runs fine and flies up to the preset boost level. It is just like there is some hurdle to take. After it's taken boost flies up again.

I've attached a pic of a plug that came out of the engine, it's a wonder it ran as nice as it did!

Flavio
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
496 Posts
Flavio said:
Okay guys and gals,

I changed my plugs this evening to NGK's 3330, gapped at 0.028". Problem is solved now, boosting up to 2 bar is no problem (I haven't dared to go any higher yet) and the engine runs smoother as well. Exhaust gas temp is lower as well.

I still am going to fit an ignition amplifier (probably B&M) to increase the lifespan of the plugs.

Hopefully I'll be able to go to the dyno again next week and then I'll do some runs at various boost levels.

One thing that is a little strange is that sometimes boost won't go over 1 bar no matte what I do. If I lift off the throttle and try again it runs fine and flies up to the preset boost level. It is just like there is some hurdle to take. After it's taken boost flies up again.

I've attached a pic of a plug that came out of the engine, it's a wonder it ran as nice as it did!

Flavio
Have you considered using Denso Iridium plugs? I heard they were good and lasted longer than the NGK Coppers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I've been using Denso iridiums for about a year and a half now. Same set, 20K miles and was BPU before going single. My car used to mis above 6300 RPMS. SInce I've put the Iridiums in, not one problem. Before those I had the rapid fire #5's.
When I need to change my plugs again, I will use these.
BTW I'm running stock gap of about .40.
Josh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Kevin Hoare said:


Have you considered using Denso Iridium plugs? I heard they were good and lasted longer than the NGK Coppers.
The Iridium plugs cost ten times as much as the NGK's. Do they last ten times longer?

Flavio
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Flavio
If they last 3 times as long it's worth the money to me. I have heard of people going through plugs at a rate of a set every couple thousand miles. 20k out of a set is fantastic to me and who know, I might get another 10-20k before I have to change them. I think I paid 12 a piece for mine. I bought them from Denso USA.
Josh
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
One more thing to consider is how often you pull the spark plugs, I put a new set in every 3 months or so. Not that the plugs are bad, just that it is a good habit to get into, if something is going wrong, it will show up on your plugs.
So the NGK's are nice for that and fairly cheap.

Congrats on getting the car squared away :)
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
4,014 Posts
PMD said:
One more thing to consider is how often you pull the spark plugs, I put a new set in every 3 months or so. Not that the plugs are bad, just that it is a good habit to get into, if something is going wrong, it will show up on your plugs.
So the NGK's are nice for that and fairly cheap.

Congrats on getting the car squared away :)
So how many times do you think you can remove/install steel plugs in an aluminum head before you start to gall/wear the threads away? Even if you use anti-seize?

I'm going to change to either the Denso Iridiums or NGK platinums the next time I do plugs for this reason. I do not believe the Toyota engineers were thinking about 3-4 plug changes a year over the life of the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Flavio,
I've also got an SP57 with SP Fuel. I've been keeping it to 1.3-1.4 kg/cm2 until I can get the Torque Converter and Tranny on the car upgraded but I'm very interested in how much stronger the SP57 is at 2 bar. Any impressions would be appreciated.

I know it got significantly stronger from 1 to 1.3. At 1 it felt a little stronger than a basic BPU. At 1.3 I'm breaking the rear loose at 45-50 on cool nights. I'm hoping for more at higher boost levels but don't know if I'll see much of a difference as the small .58 housing of the SP57 might not allow significantly more flow at the higher levels.
 
21 - 40 of 62 Posts
Top