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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a relatively easy job to do, as long as you remain patient. You will need two "special" tools -- a 10mm flare/line wrench, and a 13mm flare/line wrench. You'll also want to get some clear plastic tube to fit over the brake bleeder nipple, and a container to catch the bled fluid (I used a screw-cap milk jug). Other than that, you'll only need a basic 17mm open end wrench and a 14mm box-end wrench (or short 14mm socket/ratchet).

There probably is an easier way to deal with the brake fluid, but I basically just opened the bleeder valve, and then disconnected the old lines. I used paper towels to catch and absorb any dripping fluid, but it really wasn't that bad. Just make sure you clean it all up when you're done (simple green seemed to work very well) -- brake fluid can be nasty stuff when left on painted surfaces. The rest of the install is pretty self-explanatory -- my only hint is to run the new lines through all of the clip holes before you tighten either end (there is only one end that will fit through, and its a pita if you tighten that end only to have to start over). On the rear lines, make sure you tighten the caliper-side before the chassis side, as the lines will need to twist with the fitting.

Bleeding brakes:

The motul salesman told me the mk3 needed 4 bottles of motul fluid for a complete flush, but this is BS. I used a little over 1 bottle and I even have abs Oh well, I need to replace the mastercylinder in the mr2 anyway...

Anyway, I basically bled them the old-fashioned way with a friend manning the brake pedal while I operated the bleeder valve. As my friend applied pressure to the brake pedal I opened the line, and when he got close to the floorboard he told me to close it. Then he applied pressure, I opened the valve etc... The old fluid was the color of over-used engine oil, so it wasn't difficult to tell when the Motul came through the clear plastic tube (into the milk jug). I flushed about 5 pedal-pumps after the clean fluid came before calling it good, but the fluid didn't seem to really mix with the old stuff anyway.

Remember to work in order of the longest brake line to the shortest. For a left-hand drive ABS model, this means you start with the driver's rear, then the passenger rear, then the driver's front, and finally the passenger front. Make sure you check the fluid level in the mastercylinder regularly. (I found that the rear lines drained the MC about 1/2 way, while the front lines barely made a dent in the level.)

When you're done, have the friend pump the pedal up a few times, while you check each connection for leaks. The pedal should be firm and stay that way -- if not bleed again, look for leaks, or check out the master cylinder.



I did have one significant problem, but I suspect it was a rare case. The passenger front brake line had been overtightened so badly that the threaded fitting took on the shape of a bell and would not fit in the new line. To fix this, I had to remove the hard line from the abs actuator, cut the line with a hacksaw right at the flare, de-bur the cut (probably caused by my dull blade), and then install a new metric fitting and re-flare the line. The tool to flare the brake line cost about $7, and the fitting came on a short brake line costing $2. The only downside is that this odd-ball fitting had a 11mm metric head.



Anyway, I hope this helps anyone considering new lines

Jeff



PS, I haven't really noticed a difference yet, but its also ~30-40degrees out so I won't be at brake-boiling temps anytime soon...
 

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for some fucked up rreason.. in New Zealand braided brake lines are illegal :mad: :madf: :anger:
 

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i dont know if you guys have the same kinda bullshit as we do here... but we have a Warrant Of Fitness (WOF) and we have the car checked 6 Monthly but some one approved and chech it thoroughly....

although if ou know the right people... ;)

too bad i dont know the right people ahahhaa

well yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
None of my pictures came out well, so they'll have to wait until next weekend. I should also note that I used the supplied banjo bolts with no issue (after I posted a couple of people told me theirs had broken)
 
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