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Discussion Starter #1
I finished installation of my PHR 6266 kit, and precision intercooler. Now I cannot get the supra to maintain idle. Upon start I have to hold the throttle some to keep it running. Boost gauge shows -10 vacuum at 1000RPM with throttle held to maintain. If I release throttle idle is nonexistent. Quickly drops sputters out, and dies. Is there some type of rerouting of vacuum that needs to be done after twin removal? Have one line at the canister capped, and line back at firewire by heater hoses that comes straight off the rear of manifold is also capped. I've looked over everything very closely there appears to be no open vacuum lines.

Started the supra around two years ago with twins still in and there was no idle issue. The tank was basically empty be it a gallon or two. Put in two bottles of seafoam and added 11 gallons of premium. The only two electrical connections I found disconnected from twin removal was front o2 and CPS. Cannot find any missing connections. The car doesn't seem to have issues holding RPM 1-2k but does feel a little rough. I have photographs of the two capped lines, but they havn't reached my gmail sent from phone yet.

Another possibility is the IACV. Have it running on a small filter eliminated from the intake system right now. Is that ok on the stock ECU or do I need to plumb it in? Also to note the BOV is not installed yet so it isn't a leaky BOV. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Agreed. I would also try resetting the ECU - it might get the IACV on the right "step" to keep the car running.

I noticed "two bottles of Seafoam" in the original post. That is a lot for 11 gal. 1/2 bottle would have been appropriate per the instructions. You could have issues from that because the car is to a certain extent running on Seafoam. That stuff is powerful, and will finish off any deteriorating rubber lines such as EVAP lines. I had it happen before.

Al
 

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You need to use a bulk head fitting or similar on your intake pipe and then route the IACV back to the intake using some large vacuum or emissions hose. Heater hose will work for a bit, but it will eventually dry rot. The air for the IACV must past through the MAF. Right now you basically have a huge vacuum leak and the MAF can't make up for it.

Steve
 

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Thank you everyone for the reply. I plumbed the IACV right behind the MAF. Idles very smooth now. I would assume the IACV on a breather filter is standalone only? All I know is looked at a ton of photographs with a filter on the IACV like that and went for it LOL... Now I'm trying to figure out why the coolant isn't reaching the heater core? It only blows cold air at operating temperature. Any ideas?
 

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Thank you everyone for the reply. I plumbed the IACV right behind the MAF. Idles very smooth now. I would assume the IACV on a breather filter is standalone only? All I know is looked at a ton of photographs with a filter on the IACV like that and went for it LOL...

You have to have a MAP fuel setup to run the breather filter. JDM Supras have this from the factory. And standalone ecu's can be configured either way.
 

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Thank you everyone for the reply. I plumbed the IACV right behind the MAF. Idles very smooth now. I would assume the IACV on a breather filter is standalone only? All I know is looked at a ton of photographs with a filter on the IACV like that and went for it LOL... Now I'm trying to figure out why the coolant isn't reaching the heater core? It only blows cold air at operating temperature. Any ideas?
Yes, standalone or other setup that runs MAP not MAFS will allow an IACV to run off a breather filter.

You'll need to refill the coolant and burp the system since you 'cracked it open' while removing the stock twins. With any time coolant drains from the car, the coolant level drops and since the heater core is the top of the system, the air bubble forms there and prevents the circulation of hot coolant through the heater core, thus, no hot air comes from the HVAC.
Get the car's radiator cap above the top of the cowl, this is best done on a steep driveway or with car ramps. Then burp the cooling system and you should be good to go.
 
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