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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

Has anybody that has implemented a trigger wheel on the crank pulley eliminated the CPS?

I am using a ford 36-1 wheel and EDIS-6 so the CPS is no longer doing anything. What I wanted to do was remove it, and make a nice looking block off plate out of aluminum. I took measurements this morning and am about to make up a cad drawing of it and then head to the machine shop sometime soon and fab it up.

Would this cause any sort of problem? Where the CPS bolts to the head there is a cavity where the teeth insert into the head, I wanted to just make a flat block off plate and hope that it wont leak any oil. Removing the CPS won't throw off the cam shaft at all will it? I wouldnt think so anyways.

Anyways, if anyone has done something like this, post up a picture please! Or if this is a bad idea someone chime in.
 

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In the past we have used pretty much everything from a rubber or metal freeze plug to a block off plae to cover distributor/CAS holes on everything from Porsche 944s and 911s, to DSMs, various V6's, etc. Just make sure you seal it well, since its a nice place for oil to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.

Instead of a completely flat block off, I will make it flat at the one end where the regular CPS bolt goes through, and then where the cavity is I will make an extruded circle to act like a big dowel pin. This should not only secure the plate more, but also decrease the chance of oil leaking. And quite possibly drill and tap the head at the one end so the plate can be bolted at both ends.
 

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if you are doing that

keep in mind that you might want to leave the CPS in place incase you get the urge to go to sequential injection ;)
 

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Duane has a block off on his and we are using a freeze plug on my homies car, good luck, aight peace :chicken:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just a simple flange that will get polished, bling bling.


 

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more complicated that it needs to be :)

Just make a plug and hold it via a tensioned plate. That is it :)

I have the cad somewhere at home for that :)
 

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I personally liek the freezeplug idea, although its the least "blingy"....

Mello had a plate like the one you're describing only w/o the "dowel", and it did seem to seep a little oil....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea, but this one looks neat and I get to play on the mill at school.
 

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couldnt hurt to try it :)

i would try to make the dowel longer if possible though.....maybe 3/4" to 1"
 

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blackout_89t said:
Yea, but this one looks neat and I get to play on the mill at school.

well then you want to extend the dowel INTO the cps pasage

machine it with one or TWO o-ring groves. No more oil leaks ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12




Ok so its getting more complicated, going to have to be machined out of a thick stock of aluminum. Freeze plug it is. :)
 

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As figgie said, machine a groove around the shaft to accept an o-ring. In fact, use the toyota o-ring to make replacement a breeze.
 

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blackout_89t

ok no

get the CPS and use that as a template

what you have will NOT work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Yea I know.

Design was changed.

Just one "dowel" sticking out, not sure on exact depth (have to measure) but around 3/4" and with a groove cut in it to hold a gasket. Basically what the CPS is if you were to cut it off at the first gear.

Most likely just going to use the freeze plug idea though.



obviously only one "gasket" is shown and it is not scaled correctly.
 

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Clifton said:
I just installed my EDIS wheel, just need to wire the MS. I used a flat plate and silicone.


umm there is a WEE problem

Positive crank case venitlation ;)

You might actually still leak from there ;) That why the CPS "dowel" is the only way to keep the oil IN.
 

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figgie said:
umm there is a WEE problem

Positive crank case venitlation ;)

You might actually still leak from there ;) That why the CPS "dowel" is the only way to keep the oil IN.
I doubt it will leak. Yes, there is crank case pressure but not enough to really measure, atleast when venting to atmosphere. If it does leak I'll try plan "B" but plan "A" was alot easier without a mill:) . I'll post when I get it running, hopefull within a week.
 

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also if you are puffing that much out the PCV then you prob have some ring issues.

it should be fine long as the PCV doesn't get clogged.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I actually helped make a block off for the distributor on a 1.6L mazda engine yesterday. Worked perfect with just a flat flange, but that one had a bolt securing it on both ends.

I am going to try the flat idea with some clear sealant. If that doesn't work, I will drill the dowel hole out in the middle, make a shaft on a lathe and set it in the hole in the flange, drill a set screw and secure it in. As long as clearances are tight it should work just fine.
 
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