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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Managed to get the TIG set up on my lathe.



But couldn't get the spindle to turn slow enough even in back gear to get a good weld,
so I just turned it by hand.
But all is good, turned the build-up off flush with the 2 pieces.



Just have to slice the coupler ends to use lock collars instead of set screws.
I already did it on a spare coupler I had, and the fit is much better.
So it is almost ready to go in the car :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sorry, no can do.
I don't have a Supra to measure up, or a Supra intermediate shaft to modify.
This one is for a Cressida.
Although a lot interchanges between the two, I just checked part numbers, and the intermediate shaft isn't one of them.
 

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update????
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Nope.
The car has a way to go still. I just finished bracing a spare rear subframe, and it has to be swapped into the car, along with a bunch of suspenssion bits. The roll bar has to be finished, the sequential shifter mod for the W58 has to be finished, and about a half dozen other things still.
But I have no doubt that the steering quickener will do what it's supposed to do.
 

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Not to derail the thread, but can you tell me more about the sequential shifter mod for the W58? Is this common? Apparently I should search it, but thought I'd ask since I was here reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here is the thread I started on this project:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...ow-I-learned-to-shift-like-a-biker&highlight=

Basicly adapting an Ikeya sequential shifter meant for an S13 Silvia.
The forward/rearward movement is the same between both the S13 5-speed, and the W58.
The side to side movement is larger on the S13, so I am having to bring the piviot point up about 8mm to get that to match.
And because of the forces involved, I wasn't going to trust just welding on an extension onto the W58 die cast shifter housing.
So I am making a whole new one out of a block of 7000 series aircraft aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Long overdue update.
Had some nice weather pass through, and now that my suspension is done, the next thing on the list was to install this.
Got it in, but what a pain getting at the upper universal.
Touota intended people to remove the whole column, but I was able to finally get the lower seal/boot stretched back har enough to get a socket on the clamp bolt.

Anyway it just need a bracket made, so when the next shot of warm air passes through, I'll start fabbing it.

 

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Thanks for the update. It's looking pretty good in there and I'm looking forward to hearing your reports of how it feels steering with that piece. It's a unique project, congrats.
 

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I have a 2:1 quickner going into my chump car build. Planning on having it done by next month. I'll update here as well. Mine will most likely be located in cabin where the front cage bar goes across. Another guy on Clublexus did it to his drift car, copying the same setup. Pictures of the setup I'm copying below by bigsticks.

 

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I'm in the process of doing my steering quickner like I posted above. Here are pictures of the stock SC300 column compared to the universal kit I purchased. I'm keeping the U-joint that connects to the steering rack because it has the correct splines. I cut off the spline on the piece from the steering rack which had an OD of 3/4" at a taper, it fit perfectly with the supplied U-joint in the kit. It will be welded. The first picture shows the piece I cut from the stock shaft.


The only problem with the supplied u-joints are they both have splines on one side, I'll either drill the splines out or order a straight 3/4" coupler or an un-spline 3/4" u-joint to weld to the stock piece. The spline do not allow me to stick the 3/4" OD shaft into both sides of the u-joint.



Next is a short bit of 3/4" shaft to the next U-joint which connects to the steering quickner mounted on the dash bar. From there the straight couple connects to the quickner and another bit of 3/4" shaft to the weld on quick release piece(part right before the purple hub at the end.

This is a very simple setup to do and won't require any specialed fitting for the welding. Hope this helps. Link to kit I purchased for $300. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dirtworks-IMCA-Modified-Steering-Kit,4921.html
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well, I finished my mount.
Cut from 1/8 stainless plate. Why ? Because that is what I had.......
Just waiting for an order of 8mm nutserts to come in, that will be installed in the chassis.

Oh. did I mention that I hate working with stainless ?
Not just stainless, but the stuff was either 309, or alloy-20, 2 of the worst possible alloys I could have possibly chosen..
Was free, came out of a scrap bin at a former manufacturing plant I worked at,
they used 309 in the foundry, and alloy-20 in their acid pickeling room.
Went through 3 Starret bi-metal band saw blades, and one drill bit.
I think drilling holes in rock would have been easier.......




 

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Too bad about the cutting and drilling problems but it looks like you welded it pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Finally done !
Used 8mm nutserts into the frame rails, that was a pain.......




Now on to the next quest (this will create a lot of WTFs),
a compound brake system.
What? Why? Weird!
Stay tuned, I'll expain everything down the line, but have to start the machine work first.
 

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The car handles amazing I was at a PCA DE event this weekend and the car cornered as well as any car on the track. The steering quickner is amazing and makes correcting any issue easy. I ran in the soaking rain and 40 degrees on no tread pattern race tires and could correct huge oversteer, understeer, brake lock up's with no abs, anything that happend the car felt amazing. I can't say enough about the quickner, it feels like a go-kart with the steering input.

Race weight with 15 gallons of gas is 2840lbs. That includes 140lb roll cage, gutted doors weighing 82lbs for both, a 42lb gutted hood, 25lb trunk, 12lb battery, single Sparco Sprint seat, currently 275/40/17 front and rear wheels and tires 55.5lbs each. Like I wanted, it's under 3,000lbs with me in the car ready to go. This is an SC300 OEM 5spd. I have 18X11 and 315/30/18's ready to go on the car for next track. I'm confident the car will out handle almost any stock frame/suspension car on the road.


 

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Discussion Starter #38
That is what I like to hear !
Can't believe more people are not going to these, especially the drift croud.
But then again, if they were just a little smarter, they wouldn't be wasting time, and parts drifting.......
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Sorry, screwed up the number, should be UA20108 (for Toyota box).
The rack side is .688"-34/36 spline.
I used 2:1, and on the Cressida slow ass hell, old lady ratio, I ended up with just over 1-1/2 lock to lock.
 
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