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what was the reasoning behind the weld filler ? Was that to reduce the heat on the spline and hence reduce warpage ?

I am thinking

If i wanted to use a 1.5 ratio then i suppose i need this ? http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hre-5225/overview/ ... is it less heavy duty from your 2.0:1 which i assume is this - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-522b2/overview/

On top of this i need the woodward UA20108 discussed as well as a woodward c108 to weld on to the old steering rack ?

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/8811/65ra.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/6967/oud5.jpg

Sorry for the noob questions but new to steering rack mods :p
 

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main issue is my p/steering fluid is already boiling over as it is with the slicks i run that i am sure this will make it err 1.5 times worse :)
 

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Discussion Starter #43
First off, get a large cooler for the power steering, and/or slow the pump down (underdrive it).

That quickener is one of the better ones (not made in china).
The lower spline coupling has one spline to fit the quickener, and the other is just a plain bore.
The filler piece was to add strength by inserting inside both the lower OEM shaft, and the 3/4" bore of the coupling.
Didn't feel good about butt welding the tube, and the coupling together.

I did not trust the set screws that come on these couplings, and universals, so I did as Toyota does, cut a slit in each one, and used the lick collars to squeeze the outer piece to the spline.
Less likely to work loose.

Both the of those (clamp collars, and filler piece) were just little extras I felt were needed,
but hundreds of quickeners are used without them.
So that is just a persoanal choice.
 

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Thanks a lot for your help bud.

Yes have a cooler for the p/steering which has helped quite a bit.
Im thinking about making a larger pull to under drive it.

The quickener i posted is the same brand, or do you mean that the model i posted was made in china ?

Ok the lower coupling, where did you get that from ?
Also with the clamp collars, are these readily avaialble as well ?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Howe, and Coleman are US made, all the other stuff, like 'house brands' are chinese.

Anyone who has the quickeners will have the couplings.

The lock collars are off the shelf at any industrial supply, I got mine on-line at McMaster-Carr.
You just need the ID of the collar to match the OD of the coupling/universal joint,
the slit the coupling/Uni with a hacksaw just a little more than the width of the collar.
(You can see the slit I cut in my universal in post #28)

But again, there are thousands of these in use, with just the set screw.......
 

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Hey bud

ok so both of these should be fine ? -

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...5225/overview/ and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-522b2/overview/

Ordered the universal joint from woodward but they are out of the coupling needed.

I am thinking that the 2.0 will be too extreme for me as i do drive on the road as well a bit.

Would you be able to tell me what the ods are or what sizes you bought ?
Trying to get everything at once from the states rather than one at a time.

thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Nice find on the coupler with the intragal clamping collar, wish they had offered that back when I was buying parts.
Yes, 36 spline, .750".

Yes, either quickener will be fine, but keep in mind that the Stealth 2:1 is stronger due to the planetary gears.
And that picture in Summit may be of the old design, Howe replaced that with the one I have.
You may want to question them on that, as it's the same part number as this:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Howe-...B2-Heavy-Duty-21-Steering-Quickener,7732.html
Maybe they have old stock, maybe they just never updated their picture.

Did Woodward give you a time frame on when they will have more made up ?
 

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Thanks again.

hmm i do like stronger but at the same time dont want it too responsive :(

Any chance you would be able to tell me what the OD of the shafts are ? Saves me shipping a second lot to NZ :)
ta
 

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thanks a lot bud, i ended up going for a coleman quickener, only because i want to try the 1.5:1 first and it was an easy swap between that and the 2:1 if i needed.
Will see how it goes but thanks for your help.
cheers
 

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Sixpack,

Have you driven your Cressida with the quickener on the streets, and noticed any negative effects on the steerings feedback?
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Nope, all work on the car stopped when I took over the maintenance department at a 170,000 square foot manufacturing plant.
Had no time to do much at all. Then the damn place was closed last November by corporate up north, when the oil crunch hit, and now I have no money........
Fucking big business!

But Fried-rice seemed to like it, see post 37.

My car will hopefully be on the road this summer.
Damn mustangs around San Antonio are getting too uppity, and need to be put back in their place :)
 

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My car was a caged race-car, never drove it on the street, Other than around the neighborhood once when I first got it running. 2:1 would need constant hands on the wheel, with 315's up I could change (theoretical) lanes with what felt like a mm of steering input. That feeling may have been exacerbated by 315s and a race alignment. :)

A 1:1.5 quickner, may be ok for street use. But unless your car is only driven to and from the track I can't suggest 2:1.

I'm not sure if there is any place that does manual rack conversion and changes the ratios that way, but that may be a better solution for a street car only.
 

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The car handles amazing I was at a PCA DE event this weekend and the car cornered as well as any car on the track. The steering quickner is amazing and makes correcting any issue easy. I ran in the soaking rain and 40 degrees on no tread pattern race tires and could correct huge oversteer, understeer, brake lock up's with no abs, anything that happend the car felt amazing. I can't say enough about the quickner, it feels like a go-kart with the steering input.

Race weight with 15 gallons of gas is 2840lbs. That includes 140lb roll cage, gutted doors weighing 82lbs for both, a 42lb gutted hood, 25lb trunk, 12lb battery, single Sparco Sprint seat, currently 275/40/17 front and rear wheels and tires 55.5lbs each. Like I wanted, it's under 3,000lbs with me in the car ready to go. This is an SC300 OEM 5spd. I have 18X11 and 315/30/18's ready to go on the car for next track. I'm confident the car will out handle almost any stock frame/suspension car on the road.



@Fried_rice Did you notice any backlash from this set up? Sixpack as well if you're still around...
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I don't know why, but I'm still around....
Working 12 hour days for the 3 years, and a bout with the cha-cha-chinese bio-weapon bug at my age doesn't make for a lot of time to do anything else.

But I think the quality of the quickener has a lot to do with the slack factor, along with what suspension components are used.
Cheaper gear boxes of the single pair of gears will have more slack that what I used, which has a plantary gear set.
Stock rubber bushings will have more slop than poly bushings, and poly more slop than an all rod-end suspension.
Cheap rod ends will be looser than high quality rod ends, as will worn over new.

Race cars get a LOT of maintenance, including new rod ends at critical points between races.

I have boots on all my rod ends to reduce road grit getting into them, shortening their life.
For now my rack is sitting in poly bushings, and will get solid aluminum as soon as I get time.
 
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