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· Sometimes I see dead ppl
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've pretty much convinced myself that I'm gonna have a new rack made that's 50-60mm longer than the stock one. 50-60mm will give more than enough steering angle (will only be limited by control arms at that point). I've got to measure and see if I have 30mm to take up in the tie rod ends. I'm in the process of getting a few quotes together from a couple of machine shops. If anyone's interested, I'll see if I can get a gb going or something. I'm pretty sure the first one (mine) will cost somewhere around $1000 or better, but after that the price significantly drops, as the machine shop will have all the measurements, CNC program, and jig all made up, all they will have to do is load the material and press start. so if anyone is interested, hit me up. I'll keep info posted as I get it.

I'm also planning some re-designed lower control arms, so I can make the most out of the above mentioned rack-but noting is in the works yet.

Side note: anyone a CNC programmer that can make a deal? the best I've found so far is $80 an hour.

Josh
 

· Sometimes I see dead ppl
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
why not just reweld your knuckle and bring the tie rod pickup point inwards? way easier


or make new longer tie rods

or adapters that screw into the rack and than the inner tie rod to extend it outwards
Not really big on having the knuckle welded

Already have g-master tie rod ends/spacers, but other than having my tires toed out, I don't see how changing those gives me more angle. Having more turns that you can push the steering knuckles out will give more angle.

I also removed the bump stop bolt on the lower control arms.
I will also be putting on some sort of hubcentric spacers .5-1", that will also help. but I want to put my car in the same range as 240sx/silvias with steering angle.
 

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Not really big on having the knuckle welded

Already have g-master tie rod ends/spacers, but other than having my tires toed out, I don't see how changing those gives me more angle. Having more turns that you can push the steering knuckles out will give more angle.

I also removed the bump stop bolt on the lower control arms.
I will also be putting on some sort of hubcentric spacers .5-1", that will also help. but I want to put my car in the same range as 240sx/silvias with steering angle.
find a competent welder and welding the knuckles is no problem...many people do it today

if u get tie rod spacers you reset ur toe. They effectively make ur steering rack longer, which gives more angle. If you had something that screwed into the rack, and than the tie rod screw into it would be the same thing as making a whole new rack. Except it wouldn't cost $1000 and require dissasembling the steering rack assembly

hubcentric spacers don't increase angle
 

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Yeah, Extending the rack will really only be half the equation, so if you were to go that route you'd also need to relocate the rack closer to the LCAs (rearward on a car) to prevent binding. Nobody really goes this way, FD and Subaru guys have internal steering stops they mill out, but I'm not aware of many cars with custom racks.

Relocating the tie rod on the steering knuckle lets you kill all those birds with one stone, for extremely cheap.

Shortening the steering arm is the same as putting a quicker rack with a longer sweep, which means if the rack was the limited factor that's all you'd need for more angle, however, on most cars, after rack spacers the limit comes from bind when the tie rods triangulate the knuckle and LCA, which you get rid of by moving the mounting point out relative to the center of the vehicle. Moving the mounting points out also has the effect of reducing ackerman, which means less drag on the front end in drift.

There are alot alot alot of ways to completely jack the way your car feels doing this, some people deal with them, some people burn though 5 sets of steering knuckles getting it right.

also plan on having two events to get the knuckles completely sorted out and and another two to learn when to use the angle
 

· Sometimes I see dead ppl
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I took a good look at the car over the weekend, and realized that I can solve my problems (well pretty sure) very easily and inexpensively. I believe that It's all a matter of modifying the LCA. I'm gonna grind off the bump stop tab that the bolt hits. My knuckle hits that, so I'd like to see how much more the stock rack actually has without binding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well, i sold out.

I did a little machining today for a test...

drilled a new 12mm hole 27mm inwards. wish I would have went a full 30, but It'll work. Still need to get a tapered bit for the bottom side. but, like I said, it was just a test. Only did the driver's side, so far I like the results, I'm gonna go ahead and do the passenger side as soon as either I move the car or my fat ass can fit between the wall and the car.

as for turning, it bottoms out on the bump stop about 2mm before the rack maxes out. that's why I left the bottom part of the tab. the upper part was interfering about 10mm before bottoming out. as for tuning to the right, the stock saw blade's bottom out on the sway bar. I'll either have to get spacers, or different rims (of course!)
 

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I have done two sets..one on my black car and another on my white car. I plan on doing another set...will do a write up. Similar to awesomeatrons that ma-motorsports do to the s chassis cars.
 

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pics or it didnt happen, lol, but seriously pics please and thanks
Instead of pics, I would like to do a write up on the whole thing. It's very hard since my car is out of state. ....and it did happen. The knuckles are very similar to the s chassis cars. The only difference is the strut mounts to the knuckle on the s chassis car and to the lower control arm on the supra. You do have to use a different outer tie rod like a spl design and wheel spacers. I originally bought a pair of awesomeatrons for an s13 from ma for my hatch, and modelled my supra spindles after them.
 

· Sometimes I see dead ppl
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well, i sold out.

I did a little machining today for a test...

drilled a new 12mm hole 27mm inwards. wish I would have went a full 30, but It'll work. Still need to get a tapered bit for the bottom side. but, like I said, it was just a test. Only did the driver's side, so far I like the results, I'm gonna go ahead and do the passenger side as soon as either I move the car or my fat ass can fit between the wall and the car.

as for turning, it bottoms out on the bump stop about 2mm before the rack maxes out. that's why I left the bottom part of the tab. the upper part was interfering about 10mm before bottoming out. as for tuning to the right, the stock saw blade's bottom out on the sway bar. I'll either have to get spacers, or different rims (of course!)
A note to this that I forgot: using the OEM tie rods will not work, as the oem tie rods are wider at the end that fits into the hub, and will hit the lower control arm ball joint. you will get a little bit more angle, but you would run the possibliity of causing a bind at this point. The aftermarket tie rods are a must to go beyond this point.

-Josh
 
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