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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For anyone doing this job, I recommend using the FSM. But for anyone who is interested and wants to see what is involved, I took some pix as I did mine.

I sell the tools for this job. The seal puller tool is $60 shipped and the keeper popper tool is something I have made at my machine shop, it's all CNC'd and its $110 shipped. Its made of Acetal and works like a charm. Also, being Acetal Polymer, it is much less likely to damage your bucket bore. This is custom made for the supra, as it has a counterbore that centers the tool to the spring retainer cap.

I will also rent you the tool if you are interested.

So.... The pix are located here:

http://spaces.msn.com/98mkiv/photos/

look in the folder "stem seal work"

I will do a writeup here soon.

-M
 

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Ex-hardtopper
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1,920 Posts
I'm going to have to do this in the next month or so as well, so I will definitely refer back to your pics.

Thanks...
 

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feeding your habit
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4,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here is a quick overview of the stem seal replacement job. This is more involved since I'd assume you'd do the FMS while you are in there..... I may miss a step, since I am just doing it off the cuff. If anyone wants me to do a more detailed writeup I can. There are a few tricks that I would need to add to make this a full writeup. The key here is to be very patient and think before you do anything. A little patience can make this a very easy job. Rush and you will pay the price. This can be done just as easily in the car, but your back may ache from leaning over! Remember you are dealing with finely machined surfaces, so a good quality moly lube is in order for re-assembly everything must be kept surgically clean! That's why I do this job myself instead of letting anyone else, no one put it together as clean as I will. You don't have to have compressed air for this job, but it helps.

remove radiator (coolant, mounts and hoses) you can reuse the coolant if you think it is good (so drain it into a clean bucket), optional, but it makes removing the FMS much easier. If you aren't doing the FMS, you don't have to do this step.

remove engine covers on front and top
remove coil packs
clean galley NOW (brake cleaner, lots of wipes, compressed air.... motor is still closed, so it is OK)
remove timing belt tensioner
remove timing belt & idler (discard both, you will replace if doing the timing belt)
remove harmonic balancer bolt(22mm socket, extension and do the "bump" trick with the starter)
remove the balancer with a puller, remove woodruff key and discard. This should be replaced.
remove timing gears (all 3, 2 upper, 1 lower, use a puller for the lower, and discard the woodruff key, it shoudl eb replaced)
drill two pilot holes in FMS, insert sheet metal screw, pull and replace. I can add more here, this takes a little thinking when you do it, so be careful.
re-install lower timing gear
remove valve covers, drape a clean sheet over the area that is open that you ARE NOT working on, and plug all of the passages to the lower end (all the openings in the head where a valve keeper can drop to down into - fill them with paper towel bits or cotton balls)

Use feeler shims and check valve clearances and record them, make sure they are all within spec... order those that are not.

remove cams PER FSM

*****
repeat 24 times, doing only one valve at a time, carefully here:

first step, not to be missed, and do this once as you move from cyl to cyl:
APPLY 60-80 PSI air pressure using a compressor and coupled to your compression tester adaptor, see pics for the adaptor. YOU MUST DO THIS BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE VALVE KEEPER OF THAT CYLINDER. You could also do the rope trick, but that's for homos.

use a strong, small (neodymium works great) magnet and remove the bucket/shim. set aside on top of the covered valve train. Using the magnet means you don't damage the bucket. The bucket and the bore it slides into are matched and precision fits, so they must be kept clean and lubed and free of any dings. Be careful when handling buckets. There is no reason to remove the shim from the bucket unless you are re-shimming.

using the keeper removal tool, remove the keepers, spring/cap & set aside with the bucket/shim. Do only one valve at a time, or have a way to keep sets together so they go back into the same bucket bore.

using a slide puller remove the stem seal

using a dental pick remove the left over rubber from the guide. You must do this, and, yes, it is on EVERY guide, whether you see it or not. Use the pick, it's there. Little bastard is hiding from you. Have a good small flashlight for this, you will feel it and then gently remove it. Be careful no to mar the bucket bore with the pick.

apply moly lube to the new seal, only on the part that touches the stem, Do the same on the bucket but put a film all over the outside, as well as the top of the shim, that contacts the cam. Use **a high content MOLY based engine assy lube** if available.

install the seal with the seal installer tool. Tap it with a very light mallet to seat it. A light tap, nothing more than would damage your kids head if it were with a large diameter rubber mallet, but might make them cry (i"m thinking 6 year old girl here).... Go just shy of that..... Basically what it takes for a slight OWWW from a kid. Make sure you are on the shelf of the seal, not the lips, or you will ruin the seal.

replace the spring and cap, put the keepers in the cap and pop them in with the other end of the keeper removal tool. Tap them with a light mallet tap via the keeper tool to make sure they are seated.

replace the bucket and shim.....

do that to all the valves. Line up the new seals in six groups of four before you start so you know that you have completed them, sometimes it gets confusing and you don't want to be wondering.

coat all the shiny parts (lobes, bearings) of the cam and the bearing surfaces in the head with HIGH MOLY CONTENT engine assy lube. Torque per the FSM.

This is very important, torque the cam caps PER THE FSM or you will damage your head bearings. There is a sequence and you need to do it in stages. Don't start mixing and matching buckets/shims, thats why you do only one valve at a time.

I can add more, but that 'bout covers it.
 

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"Philzilla"
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694 Posts
98mkiv said:
...Tap it with a very light mallet to seat it. A light tap, nothing more than would damage your kids head if it were with a large diameter rubber mallet, but might make them cry (i"m thinking 6 year old girl here).... Go just shy of that..... Basically what it takes for a slight OWWW from a kid...
Only a sadist pedophile would think of wacking a 6 yr old girl with a rubber mallet. Similarly, using air (and not rope) is a good tip for your fellow child-beatin' pedophiles...

Other than that, good writeup ... and great work on the creation of that seal remover tool.
 

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feeding your habit
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4,015 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
pwpanas said:
Only a sadist pedophile would think of wacking a 6 yr old girl with a rubber mallet. Similarly, using air (and not rope) is a good tip for your fellow child-beatin' pedophiles...

Other than that, good writeup ... and great work on the creation of that seal remover tool.
"You could also do the rope trick, but that's for homos."

HOMO!

:rofl: check out my space on the club for NA-Ts biznatch!
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter #9
pwpanas said:
Other than that, good writeup ... and great work on the creation of that seal remover tool.

Thanks!
 

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Registered
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437 Posts
98mkiv said:
Tap it with a very light mallet to seat it. A light tap, nothing more than would damage your kids head if it were with a large diameter rubber mallet, but might make them cry (i"m thinking 6 year old girl here).... Go just shy of that..... Basically what it takes for a slight OWWW from a kid.

LOL

Great work and awesome job.. I"m getting close to doing the same! I"ll save your webpage and thinking about contacting you about the tools..Thanks for sharing!!
 

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"Philzilla"
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694 Posts

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Registered
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Just finished my valve stems and wanted to say thanks for the guide and pix. It majorly helped out!
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter #14
glad it worked for you.... it's really not that bad a job if you take your time and think during the process.... BTW, did you use air pressure or the rope trick?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Registered
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I used 85psi on all of them. Worked great except for when the circut breakerthe compressor was plugged into flaked out... scared the hell out of me. I then ran an extension cord from the other side of the garage (sep breaker) in case it happened again.

Now if I can only get the broken bolt out of the timing belt tensioner :(
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter #16
It will take a while for the pressure in the cylinder to drop low enough to drop a valve if you lose compressor power. I have a 80 gal tank and it would literally take hours and hours.... a 10 gallon tank would take probably 30 minutes before you had to worry.
 

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pwpanas said:
Take your crank pulley and lower timing belt dust shield off, and you can get to the 'stub' of the remaining bolt from the other end.

Can i put the car in gear and use a breaker bar/sissy bar? I am afraid to turn it over since there is no tension on the timing belt. If the thing is torqued to 200ft lbs and I am only 180... its gonna take a big sissy bar! Thx (sorry, not trying to hijack a thread, just trying to get her fixed)
 

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feeding your habit
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Discussion Starter #19
which bolt broke? One of the ones that holds the tensioner cartridge? thats a tough one to get because of the angle. Apply some kroil or PB blaster, remove the tensioner (pull the one good bolt out and it should come right out since there are only two bolts) and then use a propane torch to just warm it up to break any corrosion. Let it cool then try to remove the bolt if there is a stub as phil said. If there is no stub, you will need to make the end of the bolt flat, then center punch it and drill it out. Get a helicoil kit and put in a new set of threads.

FWIW, you can use the starter bump trick with a 3' iron pipe and the 22mm socket on a ratchet to remove the crank bolt. Place the iron pipe on the floor, on the battery side of the car. Put the ratchet handle in the pipe, and then bump the starter with the EFI fuse pulled. It doesn't matter if you skip teeth on the timing belt since the GTE motor is has a non-interference valvetrain. You could also put the one good bolt back in the tensioner to apply tension again.

Also, the 200ft# torque requirement doesn't care if you weight 100 180 or 250 # yourself. Just use that same 3' bar and apply 65# of force to the end of it (3') and you will have torqued it correctly.

-M
 

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'93 Supra TT
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480 Posts
very interesting. thanks for the pics and write-up. much appreciated.
 
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