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man bonestock with no bleeder t, a supra will dyno higher than that....you should be in the 340-360 rwhp range.....boost leak?? do you have a boostgauge? you need to kno how much boost your running. it would help out alot...
 

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SpooooL
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Discussion Starter #3
Here's the scoop. I did the dyno, BONE STOCK, except for the Bleeder mod. NO downpipe, NO exhaust. I have a boost gauge but the guys at the dyno ran my car, not me. Im going back on the 20th to get some new #'s with : Downpipe, Exhaust, Bleeder Mod...etc.
 

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Sorry to say, but your numbers seem quite low. Since 6 speed cars tend to dyno near 300 rwhp when bone stock, I'm guessing that an automatic with bleeder T should be a bit higher than that. Once you are true BPU and redyno, perhaps we can help you even more. The DP is going to make a big difference! :)

Also, judging from how jagged your graph was, I'm guessing that your ECU was pulling out some timing on you, costing you a bit of power. Did you dyno on pump gas? Next time you dyno, make sure there is a fan blowing into your IC and also try to use 100 octane unleaded at least...this will help to prevent your ECU from pulling out timing, and for you to run higher boost.

Steve T.
1995 Supra TT hardtop
 

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I hate to tell you this, but your numbers seem to be a little low. :(

Click on the link in my signature... Now, although I don't have an automatic, but my car is completely stock. Also, I didn’t perform any of the pre-dyno rituals (resetting the ECU, pulling the traction control fuse, etc.) so keep in mind that my car is probably good for a little more than 305 RWHP. :D Hopefully you just have a boost leak somewhere! Good luck with your BPU modifications. Be sure to let us know what numbers they produce.

Steve Theodore: My dyno chart is "jagged" too, will resetting the ECU before hand yield a smoother horsepower curve?
 

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Supra OG
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The numbers are pretty low. My bone stock auto dynoed in the 270 rwhp range. Again, that's with absolutely no mods. With a downpipe and TRD exhaust, I dynoed at 323 rwhp.
 

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SpooooL
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Discussion Starter #7
Hey, fellas,thanx for the input. After the dyno, I put my dp & exhaust on. Running close to 22psi? Is that right. Well, last night (day after modding) I could only hit 10psi so I new I had a boost leak. I did notice that a few hoses were loose, but not off. I did some clamping and tie wrapping and Im back to normal. I also noticed that I was studdering in the higher RPM so I instantly knew what it was since I had the problem b4, oil on my spark plugs. I changed the gaskests a few months back and noticed that the bolts holding the valve covers were loose. So, this time, I changed the spark plugs again, tightened the cover, and wrapped some hoses and Im all better. If anyone has any advice on what else I can do, please dont hesitate to let me know. Thanks...btw...I do need a boost controller....Im going to make a manual one today until my funds are up. PEACE!
 

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My guess is that resetting the ECU will probably help, but race gas will help a lot more. Having very little air going into the intercooler on the dyno doesn't help, and the fans they use aren't worth a darn compared to the "real world" effect of ram air on your IC at speed. Good luck!

Steve T.

NERVOUS said:
...Steve Theodore: My dyno chart is "jagged" too, will resetting the ECU before hand yield a smoother horsepower curve?
 
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