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Discussion Starter #1
Well.. Since my rebuild a few months ago i never got the car to run properly.
When i tried to set up the timing i could not get it to be at 10deg with just the CPS adjustments. It would be at about 14deg with the CPS all the way down, and about 19degrees with the CPS all the way up. All the marks on cam gears and crank pulley were alligned properly, with the CPS being 1 tooth to the right of the mark.
So.. What i did was i loosened the timing belt and rotated both cam gears 1 tooth to the right of the zero mark (when the crank pulley mark is at "zero"). I could now adjust the timing to be 10deg.

The problem is that when i use the timing light and look at the mark on the crank pulley it jumps anywhere from 6-7 degrees to about 11 degress. Its never steady. The car idles fine at 650 rpm, but when i drive it (going above 650 rpm) it runs like SHIT. It's being very shaky with all kinds of weird sounds comming from the engine. Sometimes it sounds like its knocking (it's NOT, 10 miles on the rebuild), sometimes i think its detonating and sometimes its fine.

Im really confused and dont know what to do. I HOPE that the car runs like shit due to the timing issues and not problems with the rebuild. I dont even know why it would advance/retard the timing like that at idle.

Any help appreciated.
Dennis
 

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did you jump the pins under the diag box while checking the idle???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To read the codes? No.. Car doesnt throw any codes

Is there a need to jump the pins to check the timing??
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hmm, thats weird.
What exactly does connecting the pins do for checking the timing?

Edit:
I seriously doubt that the car would even run with the timing 180deg off.
 

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when this baby hits 88mph
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yeah it does sound like the cps is off if the cams and crank are lined up properly. usually if its 180 out it idles like crap too tho. but thats not always the case.
if not and you said you just did a rebuild- there is a possibility the crank key/ keyway is hosed. just a thought.

good luck

dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
mdr40z, thanks for the links.
Like i explained in my first post, the problem is that with the crank pulley's match mark alligned with 0 (zero) on the timing belt cover, and the matchmarks on cam gears alligned with the grooves (like explained in the second link), i could not adjust the timing to be 10degrees. It would range from 14 deg to about 19-20 with the CPS adjustment. This forced me to turn the cam gears one tooth to the right of the zero mark. This way i could adjust it to be 10 degrees.

Can somebody explain what exactly does connecting the terminals in the diagnosis box do for the timing?
 

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instead of turning your cam gears you need to turn your cps. go back and get your crank pulley and cam gears all aligned and yull your cps out and turn it one tooth to the left or right. that should be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
blu87sup said:
instead of turning your cam gears you need to turn your cps. go back and get your crank pulley and cam gears all aligned and yull your cps out and turn it one tooth to the left or right. that should be your problem.
]

Nope, like i said - with all the marks alligned, and CPS one tooth to the right i can only adjust it from 14 to 19 deg (rotating the CPS).
 
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