[cantdoitallmotor]

whats this??? more cubes??? i noticed a few of you had listed a 3.4L stroker kit for your cars. how do you like the effects??? more low end torque??? you see my dilemma of getting a turbo car w/ grips of boost, or just saying "the hell with this modification bullshit, my ass is getting a 502 BBC for my camaro..."

 

[Mike Hughes]

I don't think another 400cc of displacement is going to quench your thirst for the torque of a big block.

Either way you'll get a fast car... it might be easier with the BBC because it's been done so often. And for the Supra, there's always Nitrous.

 

[cantdoitallmotor]

I don't think another 400cc of displacement is going to quench your thirst for the torque of a big block.

Either way you'll get a fast car... it might be easier with the BBC because it's been done so often. And for the Supra, there's always Nitrous.

lmao, perhaps not, but hell, an extra 400ccs is an extra 400ccs, its just my way of poking fun of the whole displacement thing. you have nos on your car??? im considering a 75shot of some sneaky pete myself...

 

[Mike Hughes]

Nitrous.

Nope, I don't have nitrous yet, but I'm considering a small dry shot (50-75hp) to give me an advantage.

I want to keep my stock exhaust and stock rims, though, so I may have to look into getting bigger tires with the nitrous. I'm running 285/40s in the back so I think i'm going to have to move to 275 drag radials next time 'round. I'm not even BPU, but a hard launch on a cold night results in a standing burnout to the top of 2nd gear (I'm auto).

My friend just installed a 50 shot in his Civic EX (otherwise stock) and whips up on Si's now. Nitrous is definitely something I want.

 

[MADMKIV]

Re: Nitrous.

Dry kits are a no-no w/ Supras... :nono:

Nope, I don't have nitrous yet, but I'm considering a small dry shot (50-75hp) to give me an advantage.

I want to keep my stock exhaust and stock rims, though, so I may have to look into getting bigger tires with the nitrous. I'm running 285/40s in the back so I think i'm going to have to move to 275 drag radials next time 'round. I'm not even BPU, but a hard launch on a cold night results in a standing burnout to the top of 2nd gear (I'm auto).

My friend just installed a 50 shot in his Civic EX (otherwise stock) and whips up on Si's now. Nitrous is definitely something I want.

 

[beenerachi]

Why shouldn't you use a dry system?

 

[Tony Mulla]

Well, go out get a dry system, then tell us how your engine works after......... Jeez lamers

 

[beenerachi]

Well, go out get a dry system, then tell us how your engine works after......... Jeez lamers

Does this mean that you don't know? Listen, I'm just asking a question, as you can see, I haven't been around that long and don't know a damn thing. If you think I'm wasting your time, save yourself the trouble and don't reply.

 

[Supreme]

Well, go out get a dry system, then tell us how your engine works after......... Jeez lamers

Dude, the guy is asking a simple question. If you can explain it to him, please do. If not, don't post stupid crap making fun of him.

 

[pooshda]

I agree... a lot of us on here are just everyday people who want to make our cars faster... we dont all know everything there is to know about engines and what not... But I have heard the same thing... a Wetshot upto about 75hp is the limit.. if you wanna go higher... like a 125 to 150shot you need to step up to direct port, correct me if Im wrong but I dont think I am... Im not 100% sure why this is, because im not a big nitrous guy and im saving it for my last mod... the icing on the cake if you will

 

[John H]

Well, go out get a dry system, then tell us how your engine works after......... Jeez lamers
__________________
1988 Mazda Rx7 NA
.....Its kinda slow

I see by the car you drive that you're an authority on using nitrous on a 2JZGTE.

Depending on your current air/fuel ratio you could get away with a very small nitrous jetting without a fuel plume. i.e. 20-30hp MAX. This is only because most Supras run rich as is. Watch your EGTS and check your plugs. Or if you're asking this question, have someone else check your plugs. If you have a fuel controller, just add fuel if needed.

On a wet single fogger setup, 75hp is the accepted safe jetting maximum because of the I-6 and intake manifold setup. I've seen people run 100hp though. 150-170 is the smallest safe jetting to run on a direct port because any smaller makes the fuel pills cloggably small.

John H

 

[Steve Jarvis]

Most people run a wet shot because this allows you to bypass the fuel pulsation dampener and injectors (FPD). The injectors are already at about 86% on a 490rwhp dyno run (you typically don't want to exceed 85%. I believe some people have also seen problems at this level due to the FPD. By bypassing these you are only relying on the pump and lines and filter which have been able to flow 550+ rwhp. If you are at BPU+ with about 430rwhp then you could see how a 75 shot would put you at risk with a dry system, but be within the safety range of a wet system.

Later, Steve

 

[Grant]

Most people run a wet shot because this allows you to bypass the fuel pulsation dampener and injectors (FPD). The injectors are already at about 86% on a 490rwhp dyno run (you typically don't want to exceed 85%. I believe some people have also seen problems at this level due to the FPD. By bypassing these you are only relying on the pump and lines and filter which have been able to flow 550+ rwhp. If you are at BPU+ with about 430rwhp then you could see how a 75 shot would put you at risk with a dry system, but be within the safety range of a wet system.

Later, Steve

Oh, so you've confirmed the injector duty? If you find out what your a/f is at that duty cycle and power level, I'd be very interested to know.

Thanks

 

[Steve Jarvis]

Actually I shouldn't state that it was my duty cycle. I wasn't able to get a good a/f reading while on the dyno so I'm not sure where I was. I did speak to RC engineering and they gave me new figures to use as far a BSFC. Given RC engineerings assumption for BSFC of .55 (I'm not sure what a/f this would represent, but my guess would be in the high 11's.) you would be at 86% with 550cc injectors at 490rwhp with a 15% drivetrain loss). RC engineering recommended that you not exceed 85% duty cycle. Those same assumption would put the duty cycle at 91% for 526rwhp. I will take my car to the dyno when I get my fuel computer sorted out and get some good a/f ratio's. Just because you run 525rwhp and your a/f are at 11.5:1 doesn't mean that your not at a very high (and dangerous) duty cycle. It also doesn't mean that you don't have one cylinder with an injector that is not flowing up to spec and you have a lean condition on that cylinder. I will probably not run my car at over 490rwhp on the street on pump gas until I at least upgrade the injectors.

If you consider that your injectors are all perfect and that they flow 550cc at 100% duty cycle. Than that would mean that they are capable of pushing 584rwhp (with a 15% drivetrain loss). Now consider that my turbo makes about 20rwhp/1psi increase. That means that if I were running 526rwhp it would only take about a 3psi spike before I would start to lean out. Of course this spike would have to occur at redline where I make peak power. You can see how this doesn't leave much room for error. Especially when some of the injectors probably flow less than 550cc. If you assume that one injector flows 5% less than 550cc (very possible) than that would mean that the cylinder would start leaning out when your at 558rwhp. That would only leave me room for a 1.5psi spike before I start leaning out. On the other hand I feel perfectly comfortable running 490rwhp because I probably have at least 70rwhp before I am leaning out on any cylinder. This would take a 3.5psi spike at redline. This isn't very likely since I have a warning meter with a 120db siren that goes off when my boost is 1.5psi over the point I made 490rwhp.


Sorry so long.

Later, Steve

 

[Quest49s]

Seems to me that with the new AEM programable ECU, you could put a 100+HP dry fogger system at the throttle-body, and just have the ECU ritchen the system once the NOS was engauged. I guess it would still be a "Wet" system then, but not needing a dual-fogger, with fuel and nos togeather.

At least this is what I'm tempted to experiment with...

 

[cowboy bebop]

Back to the original question

I hear, and I stress that this is word of mouth, that the stroker kits are prone to failure. The point was capped off by this being said. "Anyone running fast isn't running a stroker". My tuner shop told me that and they have't steered me wrong so far.

Eric

 

[pooshda]

Maybe they dont run the stroker kit because its not necessary to run great times and have a lot of power on a Supra?... can someone confirm that it could fail?... I would just want the additional low end torque from the extra displacement, would make daily driving a big turbo car at least a little more enjoyable I would imagine... although .3 liters isnt that much of a difference, is it?

 

[Olympic Pace Car]

i was told that for a effecient turbo motor big bore little stroke = high revs. Just a thought but stroking the motor may make the rod/stroke(brain fart hope this is right) angle too great

just a thought

 

[cowboy bebop]

I just can't see paying 9000 for the kit and another few thousand for the install. I know that Crower makes a kit but I don't think anything Crower is ever going into my car. I'm sure that they're fine for Mustangs and Camaro's and such but not for me. And that leaves only the JUN kit. 9000 bucks would buy one outragoes turbo set-up and one a lot more powerful than a stroker kit. Dollar for dollar, they just don't campare to other upgrades.

That being said, I would be interested to see a dyno of a stroker.

Eric