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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.

I am ending the old thread where I fielded questions about the build Guidance on going Single Turbo on my MKIV | Supra Forums.

Going forward this thread will document my build over the next few years. To reiterate from the previous thread (see below).

I have owned my MKIV Supra now somewhere around 3.5 years. I have only put about 4,000 miles on the car and have spent this time trying to get the car running and looking as close to new as possible.

Performance wise I have a 3" Megan down-pipe, 4" HKS Ti, K&N panel filter, fuel cut defender with patch harness, manual boost controller, GF210 springs, Southbound Stage 3 Endurance. All the fluids have been changed and the transmission leak was fixed with an o-ring replacement on the shifter rod. Car is also running 275/40/17 R888Rs on the rear.

My ultimate goals are to make 500 rwhp on 93 octane and eventually 700-800 rwhp on E85. I have settled on these goals for now because these are about the limits of the factory shortblock and the clutch I am currently using. This is not to say in a few years, I may end up building the bottom and pushing the power even higher. Therefore, I will try to use parts that are perfectly fine for my current goals, but may still have some headroom. I would like to try and avoid buying things twice if I don't have to.

My plan is to changeover to a single turbo in two stages to give me time to enjoy the lower horsepower level before cranking it up again.

Stage 1
Turbo Kit - FSR 6466 Kit with Recirculated 4" DP
FMIC (no BOV) - PHR 4.5"
Innovative SCG-1 (Boost Controller, Boost Gauge, AFR)

Stage 2
Full Fuel System (800-1000 horsepower rated on E85)
Standalone ECU (Pro EFI)
GSC S1 Cams, springs, tensioner, and valve stem seals

Probably Stage 1 this year, and Stage 2 next year. Who knows could be sooner/later.

Here are pictures of the car for reference. Car was super clean when I purchased it.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Just received the turbo kit today from Aaron at DriftMotion. Everything looks to be as expected. Manifold and turbine housing are coated. I will start mocking everything up. I decided to scrap the ETS intercooler kit because I could get a 4.5" PHR kit sent quicker and a few hundred dollars cheaper to the exact spec I needed. More progress to come.

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Picture of engine after turbos removed.
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I'd just like to say that's one of the better WG recirc lines/merges I've ever seen on an out-of-the-box downpipe.

I can't wait to see the results! You have a really, really fucking nice DJG - you could post the same pics over and over again and it'd still be a treat to see them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well already having some issues with the kit. While the welds and components of the kit are top notch, the angle of the down-pipe is off which essentially mashes the piping into the firewall. The angle downward is about 5-10 degrees too shallow. Rather than wait potentially weeks or months for it to get fixed, I am just going to make due with it. I enlarged the holes on the T4 turbo flanged on the turbine housing a bit to clock the turbo in relation to the manifold a couple degrees. I also massaged the firewall a bit, and also massaged the down-pipe by using heat and some tapping. Luckily you can't see any of this with the hood open and I probably lost about 5% of the area of the 4 inch pipe which should be insignificant. I can always remake the pipe here if I order some components like a 5-10 degree pie cut, cut, and reweld.

With about 6 hours of massaging everything, I finally got the v-band flange from the down-pipe to sit flush on the turbine. I can now fit a single sheet of paper between the firewall and 4" down-pipe. If I wrap this with some exhaust wrap will this be sufficient with not cooking whatever is behind the firewall??? (I assume it is a heater core).

Update: I order some pie cuts from Ace and will modify the down-pipe and TIG it all back together. I want to keep the down-pipe off the firewall to keep heat and vibrations down.

I also plan on making a 4-inch mid-pipe. If it is way too loud, I may remake another 3" mid-pipe with some resonators in it for regular street driving.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: Finally got my stuff in from Ace, likely going to have to order a few more things and everything is a 5 day ship from the west coast.

Started mocking up the revised down-pipe. Kind of a PITA to try and mock everything up on jackstands by yourself and thread the needle of a 4" down-pipe through a 5" diameter hole. I can't imagine anyone making a downpipe without having a physical car there. Anyways, I have about a 0.75-1" buffer from the heater hose, the transmission, the front cradle, and the evaporator drain. I finally got the space and angle just right to move the exhaust along side the transmission. I have another piece of straight pipe, a pie cut or two, and the v-band flange to finish before I can start welding. Already down to 600 psi on the argon. :cry: I also decided to add a piece of flex to the down-pipe to make hooking up a tad easier, and a little give in case I hit a speed bump or something.

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More to come....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I finished mocking up the down-pipe but didn't like how the v-band clamp was snug against the floor of the car. So I added another inch of down-pipe lower the exhaust a bit. Now the V-band is about 0.75" from the floor, but not the down-pipe and future mid-pipe seems like I will only have 2.5-3" of clearance from the ground. I measure it at 3" now but the suspension hasn't settled. Even if I take a half-inch out of the downpipe, I will only move the exhaust up slightly. I should be fine as long as I don't get caught in a parking lot with a lot of speed bumps. The flex pipe should help some, but I assume most people with 4" stuff suffers from the same as there just simply isn't a lot of room under the car. What do you think?? Just go with it???

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Also intercooler just came in from PHR, it weighs a ton as expected from the size of the core.....

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Will comment more after I have a chance to go through all your posts, but glad you reconsidered the downpipe against the firewall approach. I can't tell if you have the OEM firewall heat protection material but, even if you do, it would not protect (including anything behind it) against the downpipe.

Looking forward to a great build thread.


Ken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will comment more after I have a chance to go through all your posts, but glad you reconsidered the downpipe against the firewall approach. I can't tell if you have the OEM firewall heat protection material but, even if you do, it would not protect (including anything behind it) against the downpipe.

Looking forward to a great build thread.


Ken.
Yeah trying to massage the down-pipe in was the wrong move, there would have been a good 3-4 inches of tubing literally 1mm off the firewall. If the heat didn't do bad things, vibrations may have transferred into the cabin. The new down-pipe has more of an s-shape and only in one tiny section does it get 0.5" from the firewall, but there is enough space to wrap it and still have space if its something I end up doing.

I have had more chance to think about the low down-pipe and it looks like even if I push the 4" mid-pipe all the way to the floor, I still will have only 2.5" of clearance. So even moving the down-pipe up a 0.5 inch more still wont fix the mid-pipe issue so I wont worry about it for now. I think its just best to avoid speed bumps.

Taking a break from all the exhaust stuff, I decide to mock up some of the cold side piping to see what other issues I may run into. The PHR intercooler kit is for their cast manifold kit, which seems to move the turbo an inch or two back towards the firewall but is generally located in the same place. I figure I may only have to remove an inch of tubing to get everything to line up.

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Once fitted I tested it with front bumper hanging to see if I had any issues.

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I test the turbo to intercooler piping to see how close it would be and you can see the angle is off and I still have too much length.

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You can see that the angle is off by about 30 degrees, but if I cut just above the bend I can rotate the joint more inline. I cut it above the bend and rotated it into place, but I had too much length still. I cut another 0.75" off of the drop down pipe and everything seems to line up great. Only one weld will be required to finish. Even if you didn't have a welder, you could roll the two ends and add a coupler.

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You can see how the cut tubing is end to end in a perfect alignment.

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Worked on mocking up the mid-pipe this morning. I am waiting on two 45 degree mandrel bends from ace to finish up the center section. I like the angle of everything, about a 0.5" inch of clearance from the floor.

Found a Vibrant 1797 4" muffler on Amazon for $63 and decide to add it at the mid-pipe cat back connection. Rather than cut up my HKS Ti system, I cut the v-band off the adapter which seemed to be 3.75" and not a 4" and welded it directly to the race muffler.


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Now that a 4" piece of tubing will slip fit into the 4.5" diameter bullet muffler, I will use that as my connection to the HKS Ti piping.

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Mocked up the front of the mid-pipe, everything is angled just right.

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Now just waiting on the two 45's so I can make the turn from the side of the transmission to behind it. Once I get everything tacked up and everything fits right, I will still have to do a bunch of welding.

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This is what it looks like from a side profile.

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More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
First time welding aluminum with my new TIG machine, I assumed I had to swap the + and - like you did on my MIG machine. Spent 30 minutes electrocuting myself and running the worst welds ever, but I finally figured it out.

I ordered the raw finish from PHR, but they sent me polished for the hot side. The cold side is raw, now its looks unfinished to I may just rough it up to look uniform.

Bottom line is if you are worried about buying the SPA manifold because you have to fabricate a drop-down pipe for the turbo, you can simply order the PHR pipes and make one cut out of the pipe above the 30 degree joint and maybe another 0.5" cut to shorten slightly. Then run one weld and you are all good.

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Simplified picture of what you need to do to make drop down pipe work.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
More progress. Didn't get UPS to drop off those 45 degree pie cuts until 7:30 tonight. Got the mid-pipe mocked up in about an hour. I have 0.25-0.5" of clearance from the floor from the down-pipe to the cat-back. Everything fits as it should. I still have to add the o2 bung and finish welding.

All in all I have a few hours of welding on the down-pipe and mid-pipe to finish. I was looking at the MAF turbo adapter piece and I believe the fabricator for DriftMotion welded everything on backwards. The IAC bung point and breather fitting are on the opposite side as they should. I'm likely going to have to make my own and throw this in the trash. If you flip the aluminum piece over it jams the IAC bung directly into the radiator fan.

From what I have seen, if you plan on buying the FSR turbo kit you will likely have to spend 20+ hours fabricating/refabricating everything. So either plan on taking it to a shop or doing this yourself.

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Done with all the welding. Even though I checked fitment 100x, all of the welding seemed to really tighten up all the joints and now i'm about 15-20mm short from attaching the rear of the mid-pipe to the cat-back. If I disconnect the HKS Ti mount and pull the cat-back frontward, I can hook it up. IT will likely be fine like this, but if I want to reattach the mount, i'm going to have to cut my mid-pipe in half and add a 15-20mm piece of tubing. It would only take about 15 minutes to fix, but i'm over it for now. I am already thinking of remaking my down-pipe in the future because I hate the way it looks from all the changes I had to make. I can now pull everything back apart and start final assembly. Still going to have to fix the aluminum turbo intake.

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Update - Ended up adding almost an inch to the mid-pipe and everything fits better an the mount for the HKS Ti is attached again and the exhaust is pushed out a bit from the rear bumper. Trying to figure out where that 20mm went is still a mystery. If every finish weld pulled the metal in by 1 mm it all makes sense..... Now that everything fits perfect, I can start finally assembly and get the car back on ground for some last minute changes before I try and start the car. One last thing, if you are building a system like this I highly recommend a flex section somewhere. It makes fitment, install/reinstall, and fixing any v-band angle much better. I can almost guarantee without the flex section I would have leaky v-bands from angle being off slightly.

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Car started right up on the first try (video below), idles perfect, no exhaust leaks, no oil or water leaks.

I checked the OBD2 scanner and saw no evidence of any CEL as of yet after running for 5 minutes a few times over again as I topped off coolant.

There is a slight vibration from the mid-pipe just touching under the passenger seat, but I think I can loosen a v-band and adjust slightly to make it go away.

Best part of all is the car at idle and lower RPMs is no louder with the full 4" exhaust, its actually quiet at idle. I don't know if its the cast manifold or the 9" pre-muffler I used. With the HKS Silencer in, it is very quiet.

I feel like I dodged a bullet to have a HKS Ti 4" exhaust with 4" everything else and be so quiet. System is recirculated as-well so there shouldn't be any loud gate noises either.

Don't mind the wooshing noise in the video, the phone is like 2 inches from the air filter.

I still have to fix the IAC, wastegate line, and vent line from the valve cover be redoing the aluminum intake piece that was fabbed all wrong.


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This is how I dealt with the VSVs

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Took the car out and it felt like OEM, no hiccups, no idle issues, just smooth.

Turbo doesn't really spool up until 4,500 RPMs, but with a 14 psi wastegate spring in the 45mm Turbosmart Hypergate I am only making 10-11 psi. I didn't redline it, just took it to 5,000 RPMs or so to see how it felt. It may creep more in the higher RPMs, but 10-11 psi is a good starting pressure.

I also confirmed the wastegate is silent when it opens, no BOV sounds nice too.

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Ordered a innovative SCG-1 for $325, it functions as a boost gauge, boost controller, wideband, and logger all in one. It also has failsafe's, where if it sees lean AFRs or too high of boost, it will automatically drop you back to gate pressure for safety. Short of a full standalone, this 52mm gauge will let me monitor boost and air fuel in a small package.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
First hiccups in this build. The car has always got hot while idling, but would cool down once the car was moving. To be honest, I never really paid much attention to it because the coolant gauge was always at a normal level. But now with the FMIC blocking the radiator it got hot then hotter.

I did a test yesterday where I idle the car in my driveway for like 30-45 minutes. With the heater core on, the car would stabilize at like 215 F after 30 minutes. With the heater core off with would creep up to 240F+. Turned on the heater core and it started cooling again. Now I never idle the car with no airflow for this long before so this issue was likely there before the build.

The fan clutch does not seem to be engaging, I never hear it power up. It just spins at a normal speed and doesn't seem to be moving much air. With the fan cold, I can spin it with my hand about 1.5x revolutions. I don't feel much heat being pulled off the radiator from it. So I ordered a new fan clutch to see if that helps.

I am also on the factory radiator which I assume is original. I bought a Koyo radiator because its likely partially clogged or just not up to the job now that I blocked the flow.

During the build I installed a 170 degree thermostat and rotator. Its not leaking and you can't install it backwards so I'm wondering if its not opening? I could always remove it to see if it changes anything.

If none of this works, I will replace the water pump. Either way since this car is 25 years old and likely 25 year old parts, these things needed to be done anyway.

I have also burped the coolant many times with the front wheels off the ground and squeezing the radiator hoses.

As mentioned above, this problem was likely there before but now obstructing the flow over the radiator has made it 10x worse.

One more thing I noticed when the ECT got high with with AC on, the high auxillary fan never came on, the low auxillary fan would come on and turn off every 15 seconds or so. It seems like a switching issue. I can hookup a 12 volt source to the top fan and see if I can get it to spin to eliminate it as a bad fan...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Update

New fan clutch should be here tomorrow. I also ordered a new PHR radiator to help.

It has been bothering me about the two auxiliary fans not functioning well. The top fan never turned on and the bottom fan was intermittent only when the AC was running.

I pulled off the fan shroud and hooked them directly up to the battery and both spun normal and moved a high volume of air so they are working as should.

I pulled the headlight off and pulled both of the relays off to test with a multimeter.

The number 2 fan relay (ABS/Trac relay) tested normal, but the number 1 radiator fan relay had 100% continuity between 1 and 2, so according to the manual this means the relay has failed. Hopefully this will at least fix one if not both of the fans. Is this failure common?

I check the ECT switch at ambient coolant levels and got continuity which is normal. I guess I can pull the plug when the core is good and hot and check continuity above 212 F.

Well time to order the number 1 cooling fan relay (85925-20010).

I had thought this car was running great and I stumbled into a money pit.

Just paid $80 for the relay :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Good news.

Put in the new fan clutch and noticed that I can only spin the fan about 3/8ths of a turn before it stopped vs the 1.5 spins on the old fan. It is definitely much tighter than the old one.

I also removed the 170 degree thermostat and remove the jiggy valve and enlarged the hole a bit more just to make sure, I live in Florida after all.

New radiator came in from PHR and after a little massage work I got it in. The upper mounts don't really fit all that well, I suppose I have to buy the PHR mounts .

I have suspicions that the previous owner lived on a dirt road because I have had to remove a ton of dirt from the underside since I purchased the car and I was in for a nice surprise when I removed the OEM radiator. This couldn't of helped.

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Fired up the car once I put some fresh water and Toyota red in it.

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First impressions is the fan is now spinning 3x harder at idle, it actually is moving air. Its likely my fan has been broken the last 4 years but since I never owned a Supra with a well functioning fan, how was I supposed to know. It was all masked by the fact that the radiator got a lot of flow over it without the FMIC and I never sat in traffic much.

The most beatiful thing of all is after 30 minutes of burping the system, the ECT was steady on 181 F and never moved higher!

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All this an i'm still waiting on the fan relay from Toyota who won't return any of my calls about it. At this point the auxiliary fans are just failsafe's

Also I have been waiting on my boost controller (SCG-1) from Amazon. One day prime delivery turned into five days and they delivered the wrong item! I feel like we are in Idiocrasy.

All in all, the new fan clutch was likely 80% of the problem. The new radiator surely helped, and the thermostat couldn't hurt either.

Update 10/9 - Took the car out for 30 minutes this morning and did some cruising and spirited driving. Temperatures after warmup were between 178-185 F the whole time. After I parked the car and let it idle, it spiked briefly to 187 F then fell back to 185 F and stabilized for the next 20 minutes. I would say my cooling issues are over.

Also found that I get 10 psi in 3rd gear by about 4,100-4,200 RPMs. Boost controller is supposed to be "delivered" today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Finally got the SCG-1 in from Amazon after 8 days on a 1 day ship.

Ran the O2 wiring and boost controller wiring through the passenger side grommet. I decided not to run in through the main ECU harness because everything looked so neat and tidy.

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Put a small slit in the inner fender grommet and fed the wires through.

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Pulled them into the ECU area. Patch harness really messes things up, but I haven't made any modifications to the factory harness which I am trying to avoid.

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Pulled the old mechanical boost gauge out for the new one and wired it up.

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Plumbed in 3 port mac valve to the wastegate.

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After thinking long and hard I decided the bottom of the down-pipe with an angled bung gave about 20-22" from the turbo (package says 24" minimum) and the angle of the sensor is about 30 degree's up to keep moisture out. This also gives a nice run of the wiring harness away from anything hot.

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Calibrated everything and started it up.

Innovative gives you an easy way to program everything through your computer.

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You can set boost cuts and AFR cuts, which you can tune to drop duty cycle as a failsafe.

I have tried to get RPM to work, but I tried to get a reading from 16A Tach and I believe 31A IGF and both signals were not 0-5 volts which only the SCG-1 can read. It looks like I will have to buy a tach adapter to make the RPMs log correctly and want a shift light in the gauge.

Overall I think the kit is a bargain at $325. It comes with a 4-bar MAP sensor, 3-port mac valve, wideband o2 sensor, boost controller, boost gauge, and all the failsafe's you need in a nice 52mm gauge. It should help me find the edge of the factory ECU and fuel system and be able to run it on the ragged edge with help of the failsafe's.

Quick update.

These are all 3rd gear pulls.

As noted before, I was seeing like 10-11 psi with the top port of the wastegate open.

With the boost controller hooked up to the top port of the gate with 0% duty cycle, I am seeing 12 psi with 10.6 AFR.

With the duty cycle at 10%, I am seeing 16 psi and 10.7 AFR.

Very touchy gate, which means I was likely just on the ragged edge of the max flow of the 45mm gate and the 6466.

I will try 5% next and see what I get out at 7k. If it all looks good I can use that info to set my failsafe's and slowly bump up the duty.

Update: new cooling relay came in after 2.5 weeks. Tested normal. Swapped it in, started car, pulled the radiator temp sensor harness, and both auxillary fans came on at high speed. So that is fixed now.
 

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The O2 is fine as long as you have a foot or so away from the turbo housing. Turbos absorb much of the primary heat coming out of the exhaust ports unlike N/A cars so you can have it closer. Great job. I ran the stock ECU and MAF for a very long time on my car back in the early 2000s. Almost went 9s on it back in 2006 as my car went [email protected] Once you get close to 700whp, it will max out the voltage and you'll need to switch to speed density as once the voltage is maxed out, you can't fix that with a piggy back. Back then I ran an SAFC 2 with 1 map for low boost around 17psi and another map for high boost or 28psi and C16. This was before E85 was available.

Steve
 
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