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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Removed the IAC hose and replumbed the crankcase hose to the turbo inlet.
Removed the IAC metal hose and replumbed the vacuum lines.
Added a small filter to the IAC, wow is it loud when the car first starts.
Removed the narrowband O2 sensor from the down-pipe and capped it.
Looks much cleaner now around the turbo.

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I played with the knock sensing, but didn't have much luck as it was pulling timing all the time. I might have to adjust the sensitivity before I try again.

Turned on launch control. Won't try it until I am somewhere remote.

Set a boost cut at 20 psi.

Added more timing across the 14 and 17 psi portions of the map. Timing drops off a cliff once it approaches 20 psi, which I don't plan on getting close to.

The ECU is now commanding 17.5 degrees at 15 psi, which is probably still safe for 93 IMO. I likely won't add much if anymore in these loads. Injector duty cycle is 82.5% at 5,500. Likely 90% or more at 7,000. Probably will be maxed on the injectors at 16-17 psi in this cold weather.

IATs are rock solid at a few degrees above ambient, which is to be expected when you are making 400 horsepower on a 1,000 horsepower core.

Did a pull up to near 6k in 2nd gear. With the added timing, the car is starting to feel back near the seat of the pants power as it did from the factory ECU.

Knock sensor routinely picks up very low decibels during pulls, but I think it's just background as I hear nothing and the car is smooth. I can probably just add a few more decibels in the basemap to get a 0 reading.

Car seams to start going rich above 5,500 RPMs.

Next step is to pull a bit of fuel above 5,500, and up the duty cycle in the boost controller to get into the 17 psi range to see how it likes it.

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New Update - Reviewing the knock levels, the sensors were about 2-5 decibels too sensitive in certain portions of the TPS vs RPM map.

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Desensitized knock by about 2-5 decibels in the 80-100% throttle portions of the map in order to get the knock threshold just about the normal knock readings.

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Took 2% of fuel at 5,000, and 4% fuel out above 5,500 RPMs. Upped the duty cycle to 4% and did another pull.

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This time took the pull up to 6,500 in second gear.
4% duty cycle was 15.7 psi.
Ignition timing was 17.6 degree's
Knock readings all 0 during the pull with the minimal desensitizing. I should probably add another 1-2 decibels to the threshold so I don't pick-up any false readings.
I set ignition retard to 5 degrees when it detects knock for safety, I can also have the Elite trigger a CEL or flash a CEL if I want it to alert me of an elevated knock reading.
Fuel now looks great at 5,500. Looks like i'll pull another 2% out at 6,000 and another 4% from 6,500 and up.
Duty cycle of the injectors was 89.5% at 6,500 RPMs at 15.7 PSI and slightly rich (11.0 AFR).

Car is feeling much quicker now with the added timing, but looks like i'm quickly running out of fuel 馃槩

It looks like the fuel system has to be next. No reason to install cams that rev to 7,500 or 8,000 if I am running out of fuel now.

Just found a sweet black friday deal for an entire radium fuel setup shipped to my door for just under $1500 including 2 450 pumps, lines, filter, triple pump unit, rail, damper, fpr, and fittings. I'm leaning towards id1300x or fic 1440s. I want to see what injector settings are preloaded into the Haltech before ordering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
FIC 1440cc injectors and full radium fuel system have been ordered during black Friday and cyber-Monday sales. I felt like the 1440s are just enough for 800+ wheel horsepower on E85, but hopefully not so big that I have idling issues on 93.

Was able to get the full radium setup for $1,475.00 with two 450lph pumps. Also was able to get the injectors for just over $1k. I also ordered a resistor pack delete from PHR.

I still need injector adapter harnesses, a flex fuel sensor, and a fuel pressure sensor. My plan is to just run one 450 pump for now and add the second when I need it, which I assume is around 550-600 wheel on ethanol.

Does anyone know if the factory harness will run one Walbro 450? Is there anything else I am forgetting to get the fuel system completed?
 

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I attempted running a 450 with a factory a70 harness, it began showing weak points in the wiring at connectors with them getting hot after extended drives causing high resistance and the car to die intermittently. I would personally advise just doing a relay on it and using the stock wiring to control the relay as I did because the 450 uses a lot of amperage and I would hate to tax the stock wiring enough to create a possible fire risk. I learned a relay was needed the hard way, but now I can advise against stock wiring just for the added headroom protection. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Almost all of the Radium stuff is in except for the damper, FPR, a few fittings, and fuel pressure sensor. The injectors will be here on Monday.

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Anyways I have been slowly dialing in everything the best I can before the injector change so I can gauge what type of global fuel changes I will need to make.

I have been spending the last few days really trying to dial in the knock threshold to only 2-4 decibels above normal decibel levels being picked up.

The knock sensor are usually within a few decibels of each other so when I see any weird events in the log its cause for concern.

I did have some knock threshold exceedances on a couple of pulls (nothing audible) and the Haltech would immediately pull 5 degree's

To try and figure out why I was getting little knock events, I first pulled 5 degrees of timing out of the map and they were still there.

I then added about a half point of fuel and they appear to have disappeared. That tells me that its just smart to richen everything up to keep combustion happy.

I am now commanding about 11.0-11.2 from 14-17 psi and 10.5 at 20 psi (which I don't plan on going near).

Here was my last pull with the richer AFRs and no evidence of any weird looking anomalies in the knock sensors. Even if the threshold isn't hit I still plan on reviewing every log to see if anything needs addressing.

Will add some timing back in to where it was before and see how it likes it. Duty cycle on the injectors is still 78% at 5,000 RPMs, maybe near 90% on a full pull.

AFRs seemed to be real dialed in as you can almost not see the pink line behind the yellow during WOT.

Lastly, during this third gear pull it appears I am hitting 16 psi by 3,900 on the 6466.

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I did the same exact fuel system but added the Radium relay kits for my pumps and went ID1050x. Installation is a breeze and very user friendly for wiring process.

I as well doing the same with one pump as primary up to a particular psi etc.

It鈥檚 so nice seeing others like learning to self tune, btw I just decided to go full Haltech w/ 2500 elite, IC7 dash and Haltech wideband kit. (So now selling my EcuMaster black)

Your thread might have pushed me a little on going Haltech so thanks I guess. Lol 馃挵

Keep up the hard work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
I am going to try the single pump without the 12-volt mod to see what happens to my fuel pressure (sensor just came in). If I see a significant drop-off prior to the 12-volt operation, I will add a relay kit. My car is on the quiet side and I don't want a loud pump at idle if I don't have to.

I already have the second pump installed in the hanger so another relay and a trigger from the 2500 and I can turn on the second pump at 5 psi or whatever is necessary when the time comes.

Haltech customer service is great. When I was having difficulty with the cam sensor they offered to remote in on my computer and take a look free of charge. I ended up not needing them to, but the offer was great. Completely opposite from what I hear about other companies.

I still need to order the wideband controller and 3.5" BTI gauge, but that can wait for another day. You can also buy expansions and keep adding every feature under the sun. It gets real expensive though....

Been hitting it real hard the past few days. I have no confirmed that the previous owner lived on a dirt road. I was always finding chunks of orange mud in weird places.

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Got the old feed line removed. I decided to leave the stock return line in place because it was mostly a hard line and it would require me to bend or destroy to remove.

Got the intake manifold and all accessories stripped down. Got the new fuel pump assembly installed.

The fuel filter has been installed. All of the lines have been run to the front of the car waiting for final fitment.

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Everything is cleaned up. Waiting on an EGR delete. It looks like I can delete the majority of the vacuum lines and coolant lines. Also removed the pressure tank.

So the plan is to delete the EGR.
Cap the coolant lines at the rear of the block and front of the block (taking the TB and IAC loop out)
Delete the vacuum lines to the pressure tank, power steering, the factory MAP sensor (not used)
Only connect vacuum to the PCV, TPS sensor, the FPR, the fuel damper, the brake booster, the line going to the charcoal canister, and the line going to the Elite 2500 and Innovative gauge.

Hopefully these parts will come in soon so I can start installing the fuel rail etc.

All of these changes should make removal and install of the intake manifold 10x easier.

Test fitted the fuel rail. I am going to have to move the fuel pressure sensor away from the FPR as it is too tight with the wiring and everything. I have a Haltech sensor extender that will let me move it away. Still waiting on 6AN by 3/8 adapter so I can plumb in the flex fuel sensor. Delayed again by Amazon.

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Obviously with the stock manifold I am using the 34mm length injector setup with the radium rail. Look how close my rail fitting it to the throttle body. I may have to tighten the 10AN line onto the rail and clock it just right for the upper intake manifold to seat properly.

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Update - I moved the fuel pressure sensor over to the brake booster for easy access as I will run the wiring for both the flex fuel and fuel pressure through the driver side.

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Also just watched a Real Street video and Jay said that cylinders 1 and 6 saw the most cylinder temperature, so I decided to put the two highest flowing injectors of the 6 in each of those. Every little bit helps I guess. Love the sheet that FIC includes. Also based on their calculations, these injectors should be good for 773 horsepower on straight E85 at 90% duty cycle. Since you mostly get less than E85 at the pump, i'd say these should be good for 800+ and I only plan on making 700-750 turned up. Could also raise fuel pressure in the future to squeeze more juice out of them in the event I build the bottom end and change the clutch. Base fuel pressure of 58 and 900 hp looks to be in range.

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Well I bought a 98 electrical diagram because it was $35 on Ebay and the cheapest 97 Manual was over $100. I am installing the injector harness and I believe I have everything correct.

I took the extra step and checked to make sure everything was wired in the correct order. Can anyone verify that this is correct or post a 1997 electrical injector diagram. Everything I find online matches the 1998 diagram I already have.

Injector 1 - R/L - L (This is what I have)
Injector 2 - L/R - BR (Manual says R/Y - BR)
Injector 3 - L - R (Manual says R/G - R)
Injector 4 - R/W - G (This is what I have)
Injector 5 - R - B/R (Manual says R - B/Y)
Injector 6 - R/R - W (This is what I have)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Got the car fired up today. It was without its moments, the injector harness adapters were complete shit and none of them worked so I soldered new plugs in and the car finally fired up.

The car idles fine between 14.6-14.8. No issues running good air/fuels on these injectors with 93 and 750 RPMs.

Fuel pressure sensor works, flex fuel sensor reads 10% which should be right for pump gas.

Spent about 30 minutes looking for leaks and setting fuel pressure to 43.5 psi with the FPR unplugged.

The damper absolutely works, I was seeing 38-45 psi with the vacuum line unhooked to it at idle. Once connected to a vacuum signal, the fuel pressure stabilized right around 43.5.

Now the bad. Here is what my fuel pump hangar looks like. The special fittings on both supply and return are weeping fuel. These are preinstalled fittings and leaking with only 30-40 psi of fuel.

I looked up online and found another Youtube video that had the exact same issue, and he ended up switching to a PHR hangar. I hope I haven't made a big mistake buying this.

Anyone have any ideas before I contact Radium?

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For the injector flowing install I don't remember if you had done this yet in your elite but you can do individual cylinder corrections on fuel, I have added 5% at cyl 1 and 6 and 3% at cyl 5 as I have also read that cyl 5 can run hot at times with the ffim on jz engines and I wanted to play it safe. For the hanger I would personally contact radium, no point in installing a new hanger when it may be a simple fix such as tightening those little bolts in the center of the fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
Update - I loosened and retightened the fitting that go into the swivel and tried to get the connector angle to take some of the pressure off the swivel fitting. The last two times I drove the car, I didn't see any more seepage so I may be okay.

I converted over to flex fuel in the Elite 2500. I took the car on about 4 short drives and let the fuel trims learn what the map needs then simply converted those trim values into the base map and it drives fine. Already starting to do baby pulls to see how things go in tip in. I still have to do some changes to the fuel map to get the new injectors to run flawlessly.

Here is the last baby pull I did to check and make sure everything was running correctly. It's still lean on tip in, but good at gate pressure.

As I noted in the previous post, I wanted to see if I could see a drop off in fuel pressure between 9v to 12v operation. From the plot of the green line, it looks to be 1:1 with the manifold pressure. Obviously a harder hit and E85 might show this dip in fuel pressure.

Flex fuel sensor output was between 9-11% during the drive so it appears to be functioning normally. It's a genuine GM sensor so I have high hopes for it.

The best reading on this log is that at 4,300 RPMs, 14.4 psi, and 11.3 AFR, the fuel injectors are only at 27.4% :p

The Haltech fuel pressure sensor and Radium 1:1 FPR also appear to be accurate. 43.5 psi base + 14.4 psi = 57.9 psi (58.5 psi reading). I can accept that its off by 0.6 psi.

Going to keep plugging away on the flex fuel map, I am hoping once I add the E85 that I won't have to make many corrections. bought 5 gallons this morning in a fuel jug, so I will be able to add a little at a time to make sure it works correctly.

Still have to wire up the boost control through the Elite 2500 and modify the flex fuel timing maps.

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After seeing that picture I had to check mine for leaks. Bone dry after a little over 1,000 miles. I think you鈥檒l be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Well if it's not for bad luck, I would have none at all.

So yesterday I was out driving the car and had the tune dialed in at 16 psi on the 93 octane.

During a second gear pull at 5,000 RPMs, it instantly feels like I lost 100 horsepower.

I drive the car home and see that boost fell from 16 psi to 10 psi even though TPS was at 100%.

Figured I hit a cut of some sort, but I didn't. Checked all my settings and cut reasons and there were none.

Went out again and tried to push it past 10 psi and it wouldn't go.

Tested the 3-port mac valve and it clicked, tested the EBC with a compressed air and it turned on as it was supposed to.

Seems like both the top and bottom of the wastegate port are holding air so I don't think the diaphragm is torn or anything.

Decide to put on a MBC and turn it all the way in for max boost and it still won't make over 10 psi.

I look at all the couplers and they are secure. I blow in all 3 vacuum lines and they all hold air.

So I took the car out again today to see if I can hear anything and sure enough at 10 psi (which happens to be gate pressure), I hear a loud woooooosh noise out of what sounds like the driver side intake area. It hits 10 psi then the woosh progressively gets louder as the turbo RPMs start climbing.

When I previously took the IAC filter off when I checked, I just put the filter back one without a hose clamp and it was now only 10% on the IAC outlet fitting like it was nearly blown off.

So I pulled the little IAC check valve out and it looks completely normal. but I am almost 90% sure that this valve is failing at around 10 psi and bypass all of the pressure in the manifold.

I already ordered another one from Elmhurst because they are like $25, and I know it was installed correctly because it held for the previous 10 or so pulls I did the past few days.

My question is, is this a common failure? If it is, and this was only at 16 psi, is there another way I should deal with this?

This is all so strange because the check valve looks fine and doesn't seem to be damaged or anything. The diaphragm material does seem very soft and pliable though and its easy to see how boost would easily push it away from the metal frame.

IAC seems to be working 100% normal at idle conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Update - All is fixed. The loud wooshing noise coming out of the driver side of the motor was actually the coupler on the throttle body that slipped back off the freshly polished throttle body and was stuck up against the fan shroud. So when I grabbed it and pull on the fitting it seemed solid, but the coupler was only on the throttle body a few millimeters and it was opening up above 10 psi and bleeding everything off. A simple fix for a simple problem.

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Did a couple of pulls to really dial in the fuel in the 93 octane tune so I would hopefully not have to do much when I switch the ethanol.

Back to tuning. I wired the 3-port mac valve up to the wastegate VSV and set the boost controller as DPO#3 in the Elite 2500. I have now removed all boost control from the SCG-1.

Set boost control to open loop for now just to get it working. The magic number of duty cycle to get things happening is 17.5%. This is giving me roughly 18 psi. Once it gets above 18 psi, I command 16.5-17%, which brings it back down below 18 psi and it just kind fluctuates there.

I also set up flex fuel correction in the software to automatically correct changes in the ethanol content. I still need to mess with ignition correction vs ethanol to give it a bit more advance.

I added about a gallon of E-85 into a mixture of 5-6 gallons of 93 to bring the ethanol content up to verify the sensor is working and that the Elite is actually correcting fuel. I don't want to go straight E-85 and go 40% lean on the first hit. Ethanol content came up to 17% on the sensor.

Went out and did another pull on all the new settings up to 6,000 RPMs in second gear. Everything is looking real good.

Fuel composition is adding 15.9% fuel for the higher ethanol content.
Boost duty cycle is between 17-17.5% which is around 18 psi
Fuel pressure 61.7 psi vs 61.4 psi expected, I still haven't seen any dip in fuel pressure in 9 volt operation prior to 4,000 RPMs.
AFRs are right at 11.0 where it is targeted.
15 degrees of timing is still conservative at 18 psi IMO, but there is no reason to push for glory at this time.
Still have to desensitize the knock sensors by 1-2 decibels because it just touches the threshold at 5,500 RPMs.
Best part of all is at 11.0 AFR, 17% ethanol, 5,800 RPMs, and 18 psi, the injectors are only at 43.2%.
Boost cut set at 20 psi for safety
Still set to pull 4 degrees anytime the knock threshold is exceeded, it adds timing back at 0.5 degree per second

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Probably going to play with closed loop boost control
Continue adding E-85 content
Slowly increase the boost

More to come.
 
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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Added some more E85 to do another pull today.
Added 1-2 decibels of knock threshold at 3,500.
Added in a flex fuel % vs ignition timing which simply adds 4 degrees at E-85 everything and blends it down based on percentage to verify it works.
Also leaned up the 20 psi column on fuel so it wouldn't go so rich.

Went out and did a pull up to 6,000 RPMs in second gear. Got a little squirrely at the end, felt like the tires were trying to break (yellow RPM line squiggles a bit)
18-18.5% duty cycle on the boost controller is giving me right about 20 psi (gate is 10-12 psi)
AFR right at 11.0 through the meat of the pull
Timing is 17 degrees, no knock exceeding the threshold and it shouldn't since the E content is way up and the timing is only slightly higher.
Fuel pressure looks to be steady at 64.0 which is close to expected (43.5+20=63.5)
Injector output 51.8% at 20 psi, 6,000 RPMS, 11.0 AFR, and 35% ethanol
The flex fuel sensor was at 35%, but dropped down to 30% during the highest load. I saw the same thing in my 13b engine, I assume the return line volume drops and it plays game with the sensor.

I will probably run to an E85 station someone this weekend to bring the content up even more now that I know the 2500 and flex fuel sensor are adding fuel properly.

With the added boost, ethanol, and timing, the car has easily felt as fast as it's ever been, traction felt unsteady near the top of 2nd.

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
New pull this morning.

2nd gear pull up to 6,000 RPMs
21 psi
38% ethanol
65 psi fuel pressure
17.4 degrees of timing, added 6 degrees into E85 table but it scaled from E10 to E85 so at E38 I only get like 2.5 degrees extra.
54% injector duty
11.0 AFR through the whole pull, AFRs have been real stable.
Knock sensors are happy

Its gloomy out and supposed to rain, so I will be delayed another day getting to the E85 station.

I think I could easily add another 3 degrees of timing, but there is no reason to at this point. I am going to keep adding ethanol and upping the boost to see how it goes.

Car feels like it's picked up 75 horsepower since I added ethanol and timing.

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Added a few more gallons of ethanol and some more duty cycle on the wastegate.

2nd gear pull up to 6,100 RPMs
22.2 psi
42% ethanol
66 psi fuel pressure
18.4 degrees of timing
58.6% injector duty (maybe should have went with the 1650s)
10.9-11.0 AFR through the pull
Knock sensors are happy
I think the E content sucks right now because I added probably 7-8 gallons of E85 to 5 gallons of 93 and i'm only at 42%

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Nice cold day tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
The saga continues. Got a cold front in Florida today so I wanted to get some work in on the tune.

As I mentioned in the previous post, I was currently using open loop boost tuning to get everything running but I had mentioned I need to get closed loop tuning dialed in for many reasons.

Took the same tune-up I had yesterday at 80F and tried to run the car at 45F and hit boost cut (25 psi) almost immediately on the first pull. I knew it was simply too cold for the same wastegate duty. It may have hit 26-28 psi on only 20% duty cycle.

Tried to setup closed loop tuning in the NSP software, but Haltech still has all their directions for the ESP software which is different. PID values and graphs are different.

What I mentioned in the previous posts about tuning the SCG-1 was that gate pressure (0% DC) is like 12 psi and 10% duty cycle was 20 psi, which gave made very little resolution. This is likely due to running a 90+ lb/min turbo on a cast manifold with a bad WG 45mm wastegate placement. I am sure this is why FSR/DM recommended going to two gates if going to a 6766 or larger.

Similarly, with the Elite 2500 controlling the same 3-port mac valve, I get to about 10-15% before I see anything above gate and by 20% duty cycle I am hitting boost cut at 25 psi on a cold day :p. When the car is fully done, I expect 15-25% duty cycle to be the only things I use.

So I setup all the numbers in the boost control settings that I think are needed and tried to dial in the base closed loop duty cycle I plugged in the estimated values on the boost vs duty cycle I have seen so far.

I settled on trying to target 17 psi because its 4-5 psi above wastegate pressure, but not so high that if something went out of control a boost cut and ethanol wouldn't save.

In addition to a 20 psi boost cut, I also set overboost offset to 4.0, which would turn the controller to 0% if the boost got more than 4 psi over targeted (17+4=21 psi)

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Haltech recommends starting with a 50 Proportional Gain even though the NSP software only lets you set a value of 0-38. So I originally set it for 20 and left I and D at 0. Boost would fluctuate big time which cause the car to hit a 20 psi cut with a 17 psi target boost. It would have gone straight to the moon without a cut in place.

Long story short after multiple attempts I found that boost control does pretty well with P set at 1, I at 0, and D at 0, which makes sense because I don't need much gain when the controller is so sensitive. I also changed the maximum duty cycle to 30% so solenoid cycles between 0% and 30% to try dial in the boost to the desired manifold pressure. I doubt I will ever see more than 30% on this boost controller.

This was the last pull through second gear at P=1, I=0, and D=0 and shooting for a 17 psi target. It looks pretty good with everything roughed in now....

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I can now start trying different targets and see how well closed loop keeps the boost tight on the target pressure. You can see the orange line (boost controller output) moving between 16% and 18% to trying and get the boost to settle at 17 psi. Not sure I even need to touch I or D at this point. Trying different boost targets may need some fine tuning.

Overall the boost control should now be easier to make changes and safer from hitting cuts that don't need to be hit.

Next I will start upping the target boost (i.e. 19, 21, 23 psi) to see if closed loop will control those well.

More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Allright a quick update. I know some of you are like "this guy again", but I use this thread as a journal so 2 years from now when i'm trying to remember why I did on something I can just pull it up here.

Played around with closed loop boost control some more. Tried P of 1.75 and got more of a wavy output signal. Eventually settled on a value of 1.25, which does a good job with fast corrections, but doesn't start cycling. I do I find that after a few seconds the pressure output settles about +/- 0.5 psi from the target line. I tried adding a bit of I and it made everything worse. Maybe add some D and it will get it to error back to target. Either way its close enough for now.

Here is a pull at 22 psi through second gear. Commanded 22.0 psi and it stayed pretty closed and settled at 22.6 psi. Boost control solenoid (green line) was active in trying to regulate boost bouncing between 17-18%.

Setting are now 1.25, 0, 0 for PID. Maybe try 1.35, 0, 0 next.

On this pull at 22 psi (22.6) to 6,100 RPMs, timing was 18 degrees, ethanol content 50%, fuel pressure 66 psi, IAT 60 F, water temps 180 F, injector duty 63%, no knock, AFRs 10.6-11.0.

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I also pulled up vehicle speed to see how all of that was logging. I believe "Drive Train Sensor" must be off the v160 and the Vehicle Speed Output must be a smoothened calibrated output from the 2500. So to get traction control I will need a front and rear wheel speed sensor, but I am running out of SPI inputs. I am current using SPI1 for flex fuel. SPI2 is open. SPI3 is the current vehicle speed. SPI4 is AC request which I assume is a signal to let the ECU know the AC is on and to bump the idle RPM? Looks like I would have to use SPI2 and maybe SPI3 or SPI4?

I also want to start using the CAN system to be able to use a BTI gauge to do all my road tuning instead of carrying a clunky computer on the passenger seat, so I went ahead and ordered a Haltech WB Controller and 3.5" BTI screen, which will eliminate the need to use the SCG-1 for feeding a WB signal into the 2500 and may also give me more accurate and speedier data. Can't wait to start configuring the touch screen gauge.
 

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"This guy again" is all good stuff. Keep up the good work.


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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Everything was looking so nice during my previous tuning session that I decided to lean out the fuel a bit and try some pulls through the gears

Rolled out in to first gear and smashed the throttle, just touched rev limiter in first and backfired a bit going into second, rode 2nd gear through about 6,200, and went into third up to 75 mph in about 5 seconds.

Boost got up near 24 psi, but started to drop off a bit down to the 22s. Still need to play with the controller.

Air fuels were about 10.9-11.2 through the three gears. Timing was about 19 degrees up top with 51% ethanol and 23 psi.

Still no evidence that running one 450 pump in 9 volt mode is affecting fuel pressure one bit. The fuel pressure output vs expected is dead on. Also haven't seen a drop yet to force me to wire in the second pump.

With 51% ethanol, 23 psi, and 11.0 AFRs, the injector duty was about 62%

Car feels great, but it does seem like after 6,200 RPMs the power seems to drop off significantly. I believe the stock cams must choking the motor. It seems like the best power is right between 5,000-6,000 RPMs.

I'm guessing cams and new springs are the only solution.

Other than the drop off in power above 6,200, the car does plant well on the 275/40/17 R88Rs at 28 psi.

WB controller is here, the BTI gauge should be here on Monday. Going to try 26 psi next and going up to 60% ethanol content.

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